Jump to content

Recommended Posts

26 minutes ago, RichardHarris123 said:

Hello all.  

I have splashed out on some new oils and decided to buy the fluorescent ones.  Any recommendations for a UV light?

I got this cheap effort a few months ago. It lights up the fluorescent oils really well. It picks out capstones as well. You can even get a good finger tan with it or any other small body part for that matter 😆

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/254005595505?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=q3EwfL-5Rsi&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=tBiLZaCfRb2&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Help the guy out, looks like hes got a cracked phone screen 😆

Edited by Neverenoughwatches
Unusually missing my strange sense of humor
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I did a little research and it turns out that rubies fluoresce better at 365 nm UV, not sure how true this is, but there are generally two types if UV light sold 395 and 365.

Maybe I was sucked into the hype, but I got the 365 and it makes jewels light up like little red LEDs. But I don't have the other type to compare so not a fair test.

 

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

39 minutes ago, RichardHarris123 said:

I've bought one, at only £6 can't really go wrong.  

Next time I order from Cousins , I'll buy this.  It must be better as it says Horotec on it!!!

Screenshot_20231108_111412_Chrome.jpg

You can easily add the Horotec label yourself. All my tools are either horotec or bergeon, at least thats what the label says. 

  • Haha 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I purchased £3.75 UV torch from ebay. Jewel 'ping'. Pick up UV torch, insert battery. Found red illuminated jewel within 15 seconds. Remove battery.  Done this twice now. Would never have found them without. Well worth the purchase.

Edited by rossjackson01
More information
  • Like 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • These are the places where I oiled with HP 1300...  These are the places where I oiled with HP 1300...  I can see that the cannon pinion is moving as it should once I installed the pallet fork. I created a small video but was not able to upload it. It is a mov file type. I need now to source a GR4014X mainspring, a stop ever #9433 and both calendar disc as the days/dates are peeling out... This is the mido watch which holds the ETA Movement.... I just want to thanks all of you guys for your help, specially @eccentric59 who nailed it! So, I would consider this case as closed unless of course any question from any of you... Best regards Fernando     I could not download the file... I will tray to located. Many thanks. 
    • Thanks a lot everyone!  I'll update you as soon as a final decision has been made by my friend (and depending on her decision, what I may find inside). 
    • Thanks Marc, clearly I have a lot to learn about metallurgy. I’d expect the cutting of tool or spring steel to be a lot harder to cut into a precise shape- I expect I’d have to anneal it first? 
    • Unfortunately if you have used mild steel you will have little hope of hardening and tempering it, it simply doesn't contain enough carbon. You need to use a steel with a higher carbon content like tool steel or spring steel. One good source for this is engineers feeler gauges which can be picked up relatively inexpensively and provide a range of thicknesses of material. this will then harden and temper in pretty much the way you have described.
    • Thanks for this excellent tutorial and very fine illustrations @Jon! Really first class! 👍 I noticed that your image was a bit too small to read with ease, so here's a larger copy of it. I summarized @nickelsilver's method for adjusting beat errors to the following, but you can find all the info in the thread I linked to: “For everyday work, from the smallest ladies’ movements to marine chronometer, I set the balance with the cock on a bench block so the roller table is in a hole, balance on the block. Lift up the cock and move it over- not flipping it, just moving laterally, until I can see the slot in the hairspring collet, get in there and adjust (for tiny watches this is usually with an oiler, larger, a small screwdriver). Go back in the watch and check on the machine. I hold a balance arm of the rim with tweezers while moving the collet.”    
×
×
  • Create New...