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Tissot Seastar Auto 2591 #2


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I posted this one when I first picked it up back in July. Came in parts and the automatic works was put together wrong. I learned a lot on this family of movements and really am happy with the outcome as well as the journey. First I will post how it arrived, the for now final, the parts I sourced for replacement,  and the latest disassembly for service in case it helps someone else. I had to match every part to the tech sheet and found only 1 missing screw, but the calendar and date rings were toast on arrival. They were good for practice during assembly because they only had the paint removed and I separated the hour wheel from the day ring so that I could work on the calendar and day advancements and see the bridges on the dial side.DSCN54184.thumb.JPG.b07c36af059d514914f5105079910706.JPGDSCN54194.thumb.JPG.b134264a07778c74798686cc3a9cbfc6.JPGDSCN54822.thumb.JPG.7a43d850bfbd557ec69a2264edaff6ec.JPG20231023_1906222.thumb.jpg.ece7ee9a2434957ae0d0a04538fcbe2c.jpg20231023_1908312.thumb.jpg.4caeb80fd5d5c7715a7b9809b3733de8.jpg20231023_1906592.thumb.jpg.e0c68f5973b50dc942b650df6b5a4a12.jpg

The original bracelet is a little different with a single link style and needs a little adjustment to get the end covers to lay flat.

The watch has been going for about 22 hours with more than 14 hours on the wrist. I am never sure when a full wind is reached on these that have a manual wind function as well. The watch has gained a bit over that time and the timegrapher numbers are pretty decent with not much delta on the horizontal for either the beat error or the Amp. On the vertical 2 of the 4 had good numbers and deltas on the Amp and beat error but the other two are off a bit.20231023_1603072.thumb.jpg.bfa884119c1df9f6dce3aa25949b4682.jpg20231023_160632.thumb.jpg.90986a411a2aeb6171fbf1a5d2df642a.jpg20231023_1611582.thumb.jpg.7b3e7be36846b0fb8183e0c19eb8e58b.jpg20231023_1610252.thumb.jpg.904e699628200034732a804cb6a42280.jpg20231023_1615542.thumb.jpg.248298e2366735860aacc3ab9af8fbea.jpg20231023_1613222.thumb.jpg.98fdebdd60e6258ab82305b14e5de352.jpg

Edited by Razz
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    • Hi and welcome. First of all, check the power reserve. If the watch is runing, this means the spring is attached to the barrel arbor. If there is no end of winding, this probably means that the spring is not attached to the barreland it's outer end is slipping. In such case, the watch will run, but the power reserve will be small - about several hours
    • Hi welcome to the forum. One can only reiterate the diagnosis already made by clockboy mainspring problem. But before tearing it to pieces take a little time to read the attached file to acquaint yourself with all the various parts. TZIllustratedGlossary.pdf
    • We think about these preps as "one-dips" partly because they are terrific solvents but also because the parts they are used on are often cleaner in general than many other parts. But old oils petrify, and even something like B-Dip can't clean up over-soiled parts without some extra effort, as mentioned above. There is an intermediate step during cleaning where the solvent can partially dissolve tarry residues so they have a more liquid varnish-like consistency, and that could well be what you are seeing on the coils after two washes. I wouldn't worry that your B-Dip was contaminated before you used it on this hairspring, but it I wouldn't re-use that aliquot AFTER this cleaning!
    • Welcome to the forum, enjoy.. Normally if a hand wound watch does not fully wind ie just keeps winding there is an error with mainspring, either slipping around its winding arbour or the mainspring is broken. 
    • Most all my 404 candidates are coming from swap meets and "antiques fairs". One more $4US plus battery and elbow grease. Unnamed digital on a decent ss bracelet. Gains 10 seconds a day so not that accurate...
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