Jump to content

Removing Roller Table From Ilinois Bunn


Recommended Posts

This is a two part question since, one of the issues is having two parts :)
 

1 - I have had several double rollers that were easy to remove with the inexpensive Bergeon nutcracker type remover. Two of my Illinois Bunn 17 jewel rollers came out in two parts 9roller table separate from safety table). I don't know if that was an error or if that is how it was set up. Help with this?

 

2-  I am now considering using my staking set... a nice and complete set with the graduated lever press. I read about the use of the lathe to catch the roller table in a collet  followed by a gentle twisting of the balance at the anchor points. Which is safer? Easier? I imagine the staking set is just like using the Rex set...correct?

 

Thanks!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Having not actually worked on a Bunn, I don't know if the double roller is in 2 pieces. But, its not uncommon to have them in 2 seperate pieces, the lower safety roller and the upper roller table. I did an Illinois Santa Fe recently and if I can remember correctly, it was in 2 pieces. 

 

I've found it's best to be 100% confident in knowing how something comes apart or you will risk damaging it......(i know, duh!)

 

I say this because a lot of the shortcuts out there have been developed by people who understand how and why certain things work and others do not. I'm guilty of attempting something without fully understanding how it is assembled or how it should come apart and then spending a long time fixing what I just damaged...Even job specific tools can really do some damage there is not  full understanding on how it is used for that particular job...

 

Hopefully, someone with experience with this particular setup with help you out....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Some double rollers do come off separately, but I am not sure about the Bunn.

 

I would say though that I have never heard of anyone removing a roller via a lathe, seems a little dangerous to me. If twisting a very tight roller you may be surprised to find you are actually turning the balance staff rather than the roller and this could potentially loosen the rivet?

 

But removing a roller should not be a chore. Many staking sets will come with a roller remover, the bergeon (nut cracker) roller remover is quite safe but takes practice to use safely. And of course there is the Platax tool.

 

I have taken some pics of how to setup the balance in a staking set for roller removal wether it is a single or double.

 

post-1-0-96618100-1395655203_thumb.jpg

 

post-1-0-21743300-1395655206_thumb.jpg

 

post-1-0-21655800-1395655208_thumb.jpg

 

You should not need to use a hammer. Downwards pressure using your fingers should be enough.

 

And out of interest, for those who don't know this punch is used for fitting single rollers back onto the staff the grooves are obviously for the impulse jewel:

 

post-1-0-82225700-1395655211_thumb.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

 

I have taken some pics of how to setup the balance in a staking set for roller removal wether it is a single or double.

 

attachicon.gifIMG_1688.JPG

 

That is the roller remover tool that I need to find! I've bid on a few, but I'm always sniped at the end! Typically I use the Nutcracker style about about  80-90% of the time, but it is unusable when the balance wheel arms are mounted at the midpoint of the wheel itself or if the distance between the roller table and the arms are greater than the thickest part of the Bergeon roller removal tool.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That is the roller remover tool that I need to find! I've bid on a few, but I'm always sniped at the end! Typically I use the Nutcracker style about about  80-90% of the time, but it is unusable when the balance wheel arms are mounted at the midpoint of the wheel itself or if the distance between the roller table and the arms are greater than the thickest part of the Bergeon roller removal tool.

 

Sometimes it can be as well to bid on a whole staking set which includes an obscure part needed, then keep that part and sell the set on. Just a thought.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sometimes it can be as well to bid on a whole staking set which includes an obscure part needed, then keep that part and sell the set on. Just a thought.

 

I bought this HG Wilson Roller Remover Kit yesterday on eBay...$55 including shipping.

 

I think a fair price for a complete set as long as nothing is worn out!

post-90-0-54576400-1395766860_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Thanks, ManSkirtBrew.  I started looking for a setup like yours and ran across this.  It was about half the price of the JKA Feintaster (depending on what auction you were in), and it's a Bergeon.  I bought it because I thought the price was fair (eBay - Buy it now), and I'm a sucker for vintage tools. It also has a table, so it should be easy to use for measuring jewels. I wonder if the the contact points can be changed out. Bergeon seems to manufacture new tables and accessories for the contemporary dial version. What do you guys think of it? I'm sorry this post seems to have taken a detour. I'm new here so let me know if I should start a new topic.
    • This is a flying cutter, usual one. The cutter itself is shown in the pictures in the first message, it is made of broken tungsten carbide drill bit. I asure that all the angles of the cutter are as they should be. I have video - little older one - that I made when onse making the same kind of winding pinion for a Poljot 2200, which is even smaller than this one. It is not easy to see in the video, but the tool rest moves about 1mm towards the object in Y direction and then returns back untill cutter is rotating. Then the spindle is rotated one tooth ahead and everything repeated untill all teeth are cut.
    • After a bit further research could it possibly be an AS 970?
    • Latest project was a non-running ebay purchase with an FHF70 movement. I stripped and cleaned it, reassembled it, and got it running. So far so good, nothing damaged AFAIK.  I was oiling the top jewel on the balance (the one in the cock) which was a slightly unusual shock setting. I removed the spring (3 leaves) which was part of a chaton holding the cap jewel. This left the hole jewel behind which I retrieved with rodico and then lost it. I was taking it off the rodico, very gently as I thought, with tweezers, and then it just disappeared.  Fast forward a week, I got a donor movement, non-running, with the plan to just take the shock jewel that I’d lost. It was the same movement but had standard incabloc settings, and was steel rather than copper/brass.  I changed the cock and balance complete and it ran, not very well. I switched the lower jewel setting, cleaned and oiled both jewels and the replacement balance. Without the pallet fork the balance swings very nicely with a puff of air. With the fork in place, balance out, it flicks side to side nicely with power in the mainspring.  Put them together and it doesn’t run. The impulse jewel sits in the fork and it stops.      Any suggestions how I proceed? In case you didn’t follow that I have 2 FHF70 movements, nothing broken as far as I can tell, but mixing up the balance wheels and jewel settings results in a non runner. 
    • Oh and this almost perfect third wheel pivot and slightly set mainspring  Ah ok yes i see what you mean, good idea. I'll try that if i fluff this one up. The image isn't great quality but i like the idea though.
×
×
  • Create New...