Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi, I need to find a 'Yoke Spring' for my FEF 190 movement.....however, having search fp0r one its clear that different suppliers see this as referring to different parts. If anyone can help me stablish a naming convention that I can use to avoid prodding you guys all the time...please do. I've attached an image of what I need.

Thanks again!

 

Yoke Spring.png

Posted

You have the movement number and part number. Search Ebay - FEF 190 part 440. The is an Italian seller that has one for EUR 4.90 plus shipping.

  • Like 2
Posted
On 10/12/2023 at 1:06 PM, Watching said:

Hi, I need to find a 'Yoke Spring' for my FEF 190 movement.....however, having search fp0r one its clear that different suppliers see this as referring to different parts. If anyone can help me stablish a naming convention that I can use to avoid prodding you guys all the time...please do. I've attached an image of what I need.

Thanks again!

 

Yoke Spring.png

Different countries use different names for parts hence a universal part numbering system. Even different generations of watchmakers call parts differently. 

  • Like 1
Posted
On 10/12/2023 at 5:06 AM, Watching said:

'Yoke Spring'

I see somebody beat me to the Answer.

2 hours ago, Neverenoughwatches said:

Different countries use different names for parts hence a universal part numbering system. Even different generations of watchmakers call parts differently. 

A lot of times this is never noticed by people who stay within a community or country. Or in the old days when you purchased parts from your local material house. Then the problem would become noticeable if you would read books and discover the books use different terminology is and where you live. Or if you actually look at the technical sheet shall discover it might use a different term that whatever you're using. Or you go to a school in one country and then go to school another country you'll find that the parts have different names. Plus over time the parts will have different names

you might want to find yourself a copy of the bestfit book is out there somewhere is a PDF.

For instance in one of the pages we find this. It makes reference to a Swiss dictionary that lists out all the parts with Swiss terms you're probably not going to find this dictionary if I remember right it was expensive. Now the other purpose of this is the problem of how much room on a package of a spare parts you have the right things? You cannot write all the different languages with descriptions on tiny packages so with the Swiss did was adopt a numbering scheme. So when you're looking for a part you need the number of the parts and the model number of the watch this oftentimes comes up where someone sees the part number for another watch and thinks it's going to work and know what will not

image.png.a35c07d6de0e055f1d34c73d125ca67d.png

Now let's see we should get the next page that covers your part and will get an official name and make you officially unhappy. So you need a yoke spring 440 and according to the official terminology the Swiss the same people are responsible for your parts list they Call part number 440 a set spring not a yoke spring oh dear. Where's a reality both names will work the most important thing is ideal it be nice to you have a part number or the absence of a part number you see a picture of the part you trying to purchase making sure it fits the caliber of your watch.

image.png.1a4faee60cfef422da27c34e33e5d214.png

I suppose might as well have the last page

image.png.8ff733320adfeee59cc667ad5626e1c7.png

 

Other thing that helps for stuff like this is a website like this one

http://cgi.julesborel.com/

Then there is the other little distressing thing for people new to watch repair of too many names is too many watches that use the same part or the same watch that all have differing names. So conceivably could have 10 wristwatches in front to you with 10 different names tender for model numbers and the reality is there are all identical watches and would use identical part. But if those 10 different watch companies supplied parts conceivably you can purchase 10 different packages thinking that they're all different in the reality is that all be the same. This is why companies like bestfit came into existence and this website makes use of that by cross-referencing the parts to get the original watch zero The stock thousands of parts for thousands of different watches when the reality it could be just one

On 10/12/2023 at 5:06 AM, Watching said:

for my FEF 190 movement

So with the above website you should end up on this page

http://cgi.julesborel.com/cgi-bin/matcgi2?ref=FEF_190

Now this is where something peculiar comes up this is another problem with finding watch parts they don't seem to have your spring at all? Which is interesting as it seems like they should have it. So I went to another site and they don't have this watch at all which is strange this is where the tech sheet might lend us some help for instance

image.png.34c8a6f44283dd5e6367500f20525056.png

This sometimes comes up to watches of physical size unfortunately different caliber numbers and basically identical watches so most of the parts should interchange except the plates. Except in this particular case it's not proving to be helpful at all. I'm not finding any more that I'm not finding your part with this number so let's go to another site see if we figure out what's going on

http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&0&2uswk&FEF_190

This then provides at least what I'm guessing is the problem it was made in 1945.

Out of curiosity back to bestfit online. Unlike the book which can be purchased or can be downloaded for free of someone would tell you where. I typically don't tell you where to download it for free because I paid for my. But somebody am sure will tell you where to get it for free the online though you do have to pay. But it gives you some interesting search options that the other site doesn't even though very likely the most part though have the same material as it probably came from the same stuff. The problem with the cross-references are they only exist if the literature covers the cross referencing so you can't cross reference of 200-year-old pocket watch typically a can't cross reference anything modern because the bestfit books and basically in the 70s.

So this is the problem searching for just number two which should give me all of the 200 series we can see we do not have 210. It exists but it's before the cross references came into existence. I don't know why they have some parts and I don't have others.

image.png.991fb2f27fbf7c8bcbf10666532e4b1c.png

Posted
8 hours ago, JohnR725 said:

I see somebody beat me to the Answer.

A lot of times this is never noticed by people who stay within a community or country. Or in the old days when you purchased parts from your local material house. Then the problem would become noticeable if you would read books and discover the books use different terminology is and where you live. Or if you actually look at the technical sheet shall discover it might use a different term that whatever you're using. Or you go to a school in one country and then go to school another country you'll find that the parts have different names. Plus over time the parts will have different names

you might want to find yourself a copy of the bestfit book is out there somewhere is a PDF.

For instance in one of the pages we find this. It makes reference to a Swiss dictionary that lists out all the parts with Swiss terms you're probably not going to find this dictionary if I remember right it was expensive. Now the other purpose of this is the problem of how much room on a package of a spare parts you have the right things? You cannot write all the different languages with descriptions on tiny packages so with the Swiss did was adopt a numbering scheme. So when you're looking for a part you need the number of the parts and the model number of the watch this oftentimes comes up where someone sees the part number for another watch and thinks it's going to work and know what will not

image.png.a35c07d6de0e055f1d34c73d125ca67d.png

Now let's see we should get the next page that covers your part and will get an official name and make you officially unhappy. So you need a yoke spring 440 and according to the official terminology the Swiss the same people are responsible for your parts list they Call part number 440 a set spring not a yoke spring oh dear. Where's a reality both names will work the most important thing is ideal it be nice to you have a part number or the absence of a part number you see a picture of the part you trying to purchase making sure it fits the caliber of your watch.

image.png.1a4faee60cfef422da27c34e33e5d214.png

I suppose might as well have the last page

image.png.8ff733320adfeee59cc667ad5626e1c7.png

 

Other thing that helps for stuff like this is a website like this one

http://cgi.julesborel.com/

Then there is the other little distressing thing for people new to watch repair of too many names is too many watches that use the same part or the same watch that all have differing names. So conceivably could have 10 wristwatches in front to you with 10 different names tender for model numbers and the reality is there are all identical watches and would use identical part. But if those 10 different watch companies supplied parts conceivably you can purchase 10 different packages thinking that they're all different in the reality is that all be the same. This is why companies like bestfit came into existence and this website makes use of that by cross-referencing the parts to get the original watch zero The stock thousands of parts for thousands of different watches when the reality it could be just one

So with the above website you should end up on this page

http://cgi.julesborel.com/cgi-bin/matcgi2?ref=FEF_190

Now this is where something peculiar comes up this is another problem with finding watch parts they don't seem to have your spring at all? Which is interesting as it seems like they should have it. So I went to another site and they don't have this watch at all which is strange this is where the tech sheet might lend us some help for instance

image.png.34c8a6f44283dd5e6367500f20525056.png

This sometimes comes up to watches of physical size unfortunately different caliber numbers and basically identical watches so most of the parts should interchange except the plates. Except in this particular case it's not proving to be helpful at all. I'm not finding any more that I'm not finding your part with this number so let's go to another site see if we figure out what's going on

http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&0&2uswk&FEF_190

This then provides at least what I'm guessing is the problem it was made in 1945.

Out of curiosity back to bestfit online. Unlike the book which can be purchased or can be downloaded for free of someone would tell you where. I typically don't tell you where to download it for free because I paid for my. But somebody am sure will tell you where to get it for free the online though you do have to pay. But it gives you some interesting search options that the other site doesn't even though very likely the most part though have the same material as it probably came from the same stuff. The problem with the cross-references are they only exist if the literature covers the cross referencing so you can't cross reference of 200-year-old pocket watch typically a can't cross reference anything modern because the bestfit books and basically in the 70s.

So this is the problem searching for just number two which should give me all of the 200 series we can see we do not have 210. It exists but it's before the cross references came into existence. I don't know why they have some parts and I don't have others.

image.png.991fb2f27fbf7c8bcbf10666532e4b1c.png

I wonder if Watching's head exploded after reading 🙂. I can maybe offer a solution to finding this part at least, have a go at making one.

Posted (edited)

If you search Cousins for "FEF 190" , can get a pack of 5 from for about £6

image.thumb.png.640263fd40c4bad9f31d28a5a5b783a5.png

Note that we have yet another name for it !

image.png.6a8f1ddf842675fe99c206c040509ce5.png

Edited by mikepilk

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Hi, this is the first place I found when looking for advice so I hope someone could advise me.  Im completely new to touching watches but I’ve always wondered how they work.  I’ve bought a cheap movement, an ETA replica to take apart and rebuild.  Im thinking I’ll need some screwdrivers, tweezers, movement holder and a loop? My goal is just to have a go first and see if I enjoy it enough before buying more tools.  Do I buy cheap tools for now and get better quality tools later if I enjoy it like I think I will? or will the cheap tools be a pain and take some of the fun out of it?  With quality tools being relatively expensive I’m unsure what to buy.    Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
    • Yeah I have seen 44-56 documented for Elgin 18 size elsewhere. I have the style of gauge that's like a set of feeler gauges and I never noticed before today it is faintly stamped "Elgin". Pictured is the way I have been measuring. I am going to go to a larger jewel than the 42 that had been in there. I recently won an auction on a big set of Fitrite jewels all in the little bottles, to discover that the what's actually in the bottles bears no relation to the chart of sizes printed on the box. In most cases it seems to be all mixed so in fact I have about 24 little bottles and thousands of assorted jewels of all diameters and lengths, which is better than nothing. But since I don't have a micrometer with a table, measuring for the exact diameter will be a big job. Instead I will test a lot of them in the fork slot the same way I measure with the gauge. But this is still the next thing. I have to get the escapement to unlock first.
    • it would be nice to have the exact model of the watch the or a picture so we can see exactly what you're talking about. this is because the definition of Swiss watch could be a variety of things and it be helpful if we could see exactly the watch your dealing with then in professional watch repair at least some professionals they do pre-cleaned watches. In other words the hands and dial come off and the entire movement assembled goes through a cleaning machine sometimes I think a shorter bath perhaps so everything is nice and clean for disassembly makes it easier to look for problems. Then other professionals don't like pre-cleaning because it basically obliterates the scene of the crime. Especially when dealing with vintage watches where you're looking for metal filings and problems that may visually go away with cleaning. Then usually super sticky lubrication isn't really a problem for disassembly and typically shouldn't be a problem on a pallet fork bridge because there shouldn't be any lubrication on the bridge at all as you typically do not oil the pallet fork pivots.  
    • A few things you should find out before you can mske a decision of what to do. As Richard said, what is the crown and all of the crown components made of . Then also the stem .  The crown looks to have a steel washer that retains a gasket. So be careful with what chemicals you use to dissolve any stem adhesives or the use of heat. You might swell or melt the gasket unless you are prepared to change that also . The steel washer maybe reactive to alum. Something I've just used to dissolve a broken screw from a plate. First drilled out the centre of the screw with a 0.5mm carbide . Dipped only the section that held the broken screw in Rustins rust remover. This is 40 % phosphoric acid. 3 days and the screw remains were completely dissolved, no trace of steel in the brass threads. A black puddle left in the solution.
    • I suppose this will add to the confusion I have a roller jewel assortment. It lists out American pocket watches for Elgin 18 size and even 16 size it's a 50. But not all the various companies used 50-50 does seem to be common one company had a 51 and the smallest is 43. American parts are always interesting? Francis Elgin for mainsprings will tell you the thickness of the spring other companies will not even though the spring for the same number could come in a variety of thicknesses. But if we actually had the model number of your watch we would find it probably makes a reference that the roller jewel came in different dimensions. So overlook the parts book we find that? So it appears to be 18 and 16 size would be the same sort of the arson different catalog numbers and as I said we don't have your Mongol know which Log number were supposed to be using. Variety of materials garnered her sapphire single or double but zero mention about diameters. Then in a section of rollers in this case rollers with jewels we do get this down in the notes section Roller specifications but of course zero reference to the jewel size. I was really hoping the roller jewel assortment would give us sizes it doesn't really. But it does show a picture of how one particular roller jewel gauge is used  
×
×
  • Create New...