Jump to content

How do actuall Use these tools (Watch Hand Broaching Holder)?


Recommended Posts

33 minutes ago, Stymied said:

20230929_114644.thumb.jpg.1f7afa39ed6b3fdafd99945781012c31.jpg

I posted up a few other types a couple of hours ago, have a look and give me your thoughts. So unscrew the long handle fully which it isn't in the pic press the button at the bottom which opens up the clamp. Insert a dial hand into the appropriate hole that fits the hand then screw the handle back down to tighten the clamp. Once the hand is secure in the clamp and is centered within a clamp hole you can broach through the clamp to increase the hand hole diameter .

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have unscrewed the pieces as you described but do not understand what constitutes the "clamp". I saw the tooling on the side and thought that the band between opened, yet if it does I am unable to get them apart. Thoughts?

Update: The plates "popped" apart and there seems to be some sort of mastic that stuck them together. Will assume the same holds for the smaller of the two and soak that and clean it before forcing anything. Many thanks.... much appreciated.....

Edited by Stymied
Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 minutes ago, Stymied said:

I have unscrewed the pieces as you described but do not understand what constitutes the "clamp". I saw the tooling on the side and thought that the band between opened, yet if it does I am unable to get them apart. Thoughts?

The clamp is the 2 plates. If you unscrew the handle fully, the 2 plates will seperate. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

`Don't think of this as a hand holder only. Is used any time you need to  hold anything flat and open up the hole in it.

Then pictures might help complements of the Internet.

But let me read the description first

26 minutes ago, Neverenoughwatches said:

So unscrew the long handle fully which it isn't in the pic press the button at the bottom which opens up the clamp. Insert a dial hand into the appropriate hole that fits the hand then screw the handle back down to tighten the clamp. Once the hand is secure in the clamp and is centered within a clamp hole you can broach through the clamp to increase the hand hole diameter .

Yes this is a really interesting description isn't it.  So you unscrew part of it then you squeeze like shown in the image and it opens up. It is a spraying keeping it together. Once you get your item where you'd like it to be then you can tighten it back up and be careful when you're holding it not to break off the hand that sticking out typically

0475215cd582e2060682afec654cb405.jpg.8da5a8067bd4fb403766eb423dfe6f21.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 minutes ago, Stymied said:

I have unscrewed the pieces as you described but do not understand what constitutes the "clamp". I saw the tooling on the side and thought that the band between opened, yet if it does I am unable to get them apart. Thoughts?

It should look like this with the top handle unscrewed, now press the button at the bottom and the handle, the clamp plates will seperate.

16960104545033888317838882207277.jpg

16960104742552775529390554832007.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

13 hours ago, JohnR725 said:

Found another picture online you can see the hand in the holder. You'll see the smoothing broach and you can see the protruding hand that I warned you about because of you not careful you end up breaking your hand off..

a492a6b69b238666c6e15d1906e1e655.jpg.4e8fac83dfc63daa1880d9c2d72af6f0.jpg

Breaking "your hand off" would be really painful.  Hehe. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 minutes ago, RichardHarris123 said:

Breaking "your hand off" would be really painful.  Hehe. 

This tool is actually my favourite for broaching hands. The spring loaded action of the moving plate means the hand is positioned and quickly held by releasing, if you need to adjust the hand slightly to center it in the broaching hole gentle squeeze the tool together to off the tension slightly. When the hand is lined up where you want it screw the main handle back down to secure it. This tool is a bit less faffy than the old pliers, they run at around a tenner. A good stash of nos or just old hands, a set of smoothing broaches and you are away fixing those missing hand watch. I found as an average being able to increase an hour hand hole by as much as 0.25mm a minute hand by 0.15mm depending on the tube thickness or end plate of the hand. Obviously a blind hole tube requires a different idea.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 minutes ago, rossjackson01 said:

Just another tool to look at. Until you need to do the job that tool does, then it's not just another tool.

I had to make the hole in a minute hand larger. Only option was the riveting stake block. That was hard work for a beginner. Could have done with the looked at tool. Ah well.

Ross you can get these from Cousins for just £7 (not one of the usual £££ Bergeon tools 🤣)

It's a useful tool - I use it for holding all sorts of small parts 

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 minutes ago, rossjackson01 said:

Just another tool to look at. Until you need to do the job that tool does, then it's not just another tool.

I had to make the hole in a minute hand larger. Only option was the riveting stake block. That was hard work for a beginner. Could have done with the looked at tool. Ah well.

But you managed to do it Ross, that's the point and thats why you are still here buddy because you have initiative and ingenuity. The vice just makes it easier, lots of us here buy nigh on scrappers with hands missing, so its a great little device for helping with that.

7 minutes ago, mikepilk said:

Ross you can get these from Cousins for just £7 (not one of the usual £££ Bergeon tools 🤣)

It's a useful tool - I use it for holding all sorts of small parts 

Dont forget Mike Ross has a staking set coming that has wiped his budget out for the next few months 😉. That will help to close the hand holes back up when you've over broached them 😉

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

36 minutes ago, Neverenoughwatches said:

Dont forget Mike Ross has a staking set coming that has wiped his budget out for the next few months 😉. That will help to close the hand holes back up when you've over broached them 😉

I have some pending expenditure. Just used my jewelling tool to ream a hole and push a jewel in - which shattered. Odd, so I measured the 0.99mm reamer. It's only 0.97mm, which obviously isn't enough. I measured all the other reamers, and they are almost all 0.02 to 0.03mm too small. As they are hardened steel reaming brass, I don't see why they should have worn so much.  I'll just buy one at a time as I need them. Can't find any on AliExpress.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

14 minutes ago, mikepilk said:

I have some pending expenditure. Just used my jewelling tool to ream a hole and push a jewel in - which shattered. Odd, so I measured the 0.99mm reamer. It's only 0.97mm, which obviously isn't enough. I measured all the other reamers, and they are almost all 0.02 to 0.03mm too small. As they are hardened steel reaming brass, I don't see why they should have worn so much.  I'll just buy one at a time as I need them. Can't find any on AliExpress.

What J tool do you have ?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

29 minutes ago, mikepilk said:

I didn't know until recently when someone posted this site which lists horological trade marks. https://www.mikrolisk.de/

Turns out the "P" means Henri Picard & Freres.  The standard 2.35mm reamers fit, so I can get them from Cousins

20230930_101619.thumb.jpg.2b7ba20b5ff2a08c8d1d5f433d50b904.jpg

Same size as the Star and seitz reamers, the ones that are undersize are they still sharp? 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

12 minutes ago, mikepilk said:

Not very, they look like they've had a useful life.

The reduction is probably due to losing that cutting edge. I think most reamers have a relief on the backside of the front cutting edge rotating clockwise . Just wondering if you could add a relief to the opposite edge to get more use from them. I'm fairly sure the only difference between the edges is the back relief. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 minutes ago, Neverenoughwatches said:

The reduction is probably due to losing that cutting edge. I think most reamers have a relief on the backside of the front cutting edge rotating clockwise . Just wondering if you could add a relief to the opposite edge to get more use from them. I'm fairly sure the only difference between the edges is the back relief. 

Sounds a plan, but how would you do it ?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, mikepilk said:

The problem is that I need a larger diameter than is there. I suppose you could down-size them. So grind the 1.09mm down to 0.99mm etc.

I dont think that is possible with the equipment we have as there is the taper to take into account. I understand what you are thinking, but i mean cutting in reverse could give you bigger hole. We had a discussion a few months back after someone had made a pivot gauge.  They experienced a wobble of the plate while they were cutting the holes, apparently an effect of the reamer design. Just by having a cutting edge as opposed to a blunt edge could give you that extra 0.02mm. Just a thought

Link to comment
Share on other sites

11 minutes ago, mikepilk said:

How? The base of the reamer is the maximum diameter of the hole. If it has worn away I can't see how you can make the diameter larger?

I'm not entirely sure, its a bit hard to explain how the reamers cut and may not apply to end section of the reamer I'll try to find the thread. Somethings are just worth a try.

1 hour ago, mikepilk said:

How? The base of the reamer is the maximum diameter of the hole. If it has worn away I can't see how you can make the diameter larger?

https://www.watchrepairtalk.com/topic/26672-hole-shape-when-using-a-seitz-jewel-setting-tool-reamer/

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I can try a big tweezer the biggest I had in my set didn’t do the trick but I’ll check if my wife has some none watchmaking ones. 
    • Yes, gum netal, which actually means iron. It is thick enough to be grinded in order to remove the rust pits and then polished, but it will need blackening oxidation in the end for protection from getting rusty. The watch has nothing to do with the railways, it is the same like the 'squirrel' candys - You do not really expect to find a squirrel inside...
    • I think the app is misinterpreted the noise because of the extra case construction    Tom
    • I have just picked up a vintage soviet Zarja watch and I have been inspecting it prior to putting it on the 'to be serviced' pile. When I measured it with the timegrapher app, I found it was gaining loads of time. Taking the case back off, I find it's a tiny movement within a relatively large watch and it has a separate steel cover over the movement which presumably holds it in place against the caseback.   Checking the app again without the cover, I find it is actually running reasonably well for an untouched old watch. Putting the cover and the caseback back in place and it reads as massively gaining time again. This behaviour is consistent every time I take the cover on and off. I have checked the balance cock is fixed and the screw is tight, so I assume that the cover and case back are pinching the movement in some way and making it run fast. Not sure I can see how that works because if the cover is touching the balance, surely it would make it stop not run faster? It can't be touching just the hairspring to make it effectively shorter.  Placing only the cover in place or placing just the caseback in place (not even snapping it shut) both cause the fast running. Pretty sure there are a couple of millimetres clearance between the case back and the movement when the cover isn't there. I have also checked the watch, cover and case back for magnetism with another phone app but none of them seem to have an appreciable magnetic field. Perhaps I need to preemptively demagnetise and get a real compass to check them with.  I appreciate that this is just an app using the built in microphone on my phone - could it be misreading a ringing / reverberation of this cover to give the wrong result? Observing the watch just running on the bench closed up, it does seem to be appreciably gaining time. I will wind it, set the time and leave it running overnight and see how it does with no cover / back in place. Perhaps I will also see how it performs on the wrist to rule out misreading by the app    What am I missing here?
    • OK, sometimes it really happens without problems at all. You can take a covex oilve 120/12 stone from Molnija 3602.
×
×
  • Create New...