Jump to content

Omega X-33 not coming out of "energy saver" mode with new battery


Recommended Posts

Hi guys.

I've not been around for quite a while... too much going on.

Anyway, today I did a "simple" battery change in my Omega X-33 (first generation) as it had slowly migrated to jumping every five seconds, which indicates needing a battery.

Got the battery, opened the back, cleaned everything, added a tiny bit of anti-seize to the threaded holes (or the screws can gall VERY easily), cleaned and lubed the gasket etc. and quickly swapped the battery (it doesn't lose memory if you are quick)

Put it back together and the watch remains in the "power save" mode, jumping every five seconds, with the new battery.

I have set the time and synchronized the hands per the manual, but it continues in power save mode. The backlight is not working either... Maybe a "dead" battery fresh out of the package? (Renata brand CR2320- correct per manual and what I removed). Counterfeit battery? the marking on the battery itself is slightly different (they added a person keeping them out of reach of children), but the packaging seems legit... is counterfeit batteries a "thing"?

I had heard one can "remove it from power save mode" but I can't find any procedure for this in the owner's or service manuals.

 

Anyone have a clue?

 

(Photo below is of the old battery in place)

IMG_9293[1].JPG

Edited by Tudor
Added clarity on the photo
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I do not have an independent battery tester, no.

I'm guessing it is a bad/counterfeit battery. I'm inclined to send it to Omega for an overhaul... it probably needs more than I'm willing to risk (and even Omega often do a complete movement swap when they get these for some reason) I have two more of these batteries I bought recently for this watch, so I've not had them long.

Just looking for a procedure, which I guess doesn't exist, and also any info on possible phony batteries.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

33 minutes ago, RichardHarris123 said:

I may be wrong here but I think confirming voltage is adequate for a battery.  Test the voltage, if it's correct then the fault lies in the watch or it needs resetting which we don't know how to do. 

No not wrong Rich voltage under the specified is an indiction of low power. I would test all the batteries you have, a fully loaded battery can be a little above what it says on the tin.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

10 hours ago, Tudor said:

I have a very nice multimeter, but that will only confirm voltage. It won't indicate the battery "condition" at least I don't know how it would.

Do you have a procedure? If so, I can give it a try.

I'm curious about what you mean by condition?

From a quick searching of the Internet apparently battery voltage is the key for this watch. Even though you may perceive your new battery is new or as others found their generic batteries renew if the voltage drops then it goes into the various power saving modes or it just doesn't run at all. So basically want to be as close to 3 V as you can be and since you have a voltmeter what voltage do you have? Then for checking battery voltage I found a service manual and they checked the battery out of the watch claiming it should be 3 V. But they also do tell you the other voltage is where the watch will go into the various power saving modes so that's not 3 V and it's less then that's why you're having a problem.

http://www.chronomaddox.com/omega/manuals/service/1666/cal_1666_service_manual.html

 

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'll measure battery voltage of the other two that were on the same card as the one I installed (I can also check the old battery that behaved the same as the new one does). The titanium case back screws are prone to galling and breakage- why I used anti-seize compound on them- and I don't want to open it unnecessarily.

I am familiar with the voltage tests in the chart. My understanding is the voltage is checked on the movement while in the different modes to verify sufficient voltage to operate.

Backlight also does not work but this is not surprising while in power save mode. The backlight did work when I first received this watch, about a year ago.

 

(old battery on the left; pack of three new ones, one of which is in the watch)

batt.jpg

I may have solved the issue!

Notice the old battery is marked "lithium". The new batteries are not. Maybe this is the reason? The Omega literature does not specify the battery beyond the "CR2320" number...

Maybe not, but I just ordered two more Renata CR2030 cells clearly marked "Lithium" on their top, like the old one. However, the "CR" is standard nomenclature for a lithium cell:

"CR or BR represents lithium while L, LR or AG is for alkaline and SR or SG for silver oxide."

But what IS clear is that the Lithium cells have a longer life (higher mAh) than either alkaline or silver oxide. This amperage is what I cannot test without a proper battery tester...

This will remain on hold until the new batteries arrive...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, Tudor said:

I'll measure battery voltage of the other two that were on the same card as the one I installed (I can also check the old battery that behaved the same as the new one does). The titanium case back screws are prone to galling and breakage- why I used anti-seize compound on them- and I don't want to open it unnecessarily.

I am familiar with the voltage tests in the chart. My understanding is the voltage is checked on the movement while in the different modes to verify sufficient voltage to operate.

Backlight also does not work but this is not surprising while in power save mode. The backlight did work when I first received this watch, about a year ago.

 

(old battery on the left; pack of three new ones, one of which is in the watch)

batt.jpg

I may have solved the issue!

Notice the old battery is marked "lithium". The new batteries are not. Maybe this is the reason? The Omega literature does not specify the battery beyond the "CR2320" number...

Maybe not, but I just ordered two more Renata CR2030 cells clearly marked "Lithium" on their top, like the old one. However, the "CR" is standard nomenclature for a lithium cell:

"CR or BR represents lithium while L, LR or AG is for alkaline and SR or SG for silver oxide."

But what IS clear is that the Lithium cells have a longer life (higher mAh) than either alkaline or silver oxide. This amperage is what I cannot test without a proper battery tester...

This will remain on hold until the new batteries arrive...

I might have this wrong but something in the back of my mind is saying there is a reset button sequence for omegas.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, Tudor said:

But what IS clear is that the Lithium cells have a longer life (higher mAh) than either alkaline or silver oxide. This amperage is what I cannot test without a proper battery tester..

I would be curious as your definition of a proper battery tester? typically the battery testers that watch shops have are pretty cheap things. Just an analog meter and a resistive load when it checks the battery voltage. versus using a DVM which basically places no load on the battery. Somewhere out there in the universe it probably tells you what the load resistance is to check a lithium battery if you're really concerned.

Another thing you want to check for when you are purchasing your batteries is the expiring date on the package. Depending upon where there purchased from even though you are purchasing a brand-new battery it might not actually be a new battery depending upon the volume of these batteries they go through.

3 hours ago, Neverenoughwatches said:

I might have this wrong but something in the back of my mind is saying there is a reset button sequence for omegas.

yes typically anything that's complicated perpetual calendar whatever there is a reset procedure to put everything back where it's supposed to be. but if you're reading carefully up above you would've noticed this?

On 9/18/2023 at 10:49 AM, Tudor said:

and quickly swapped the battery (it doesn't lose memory if you are quick)

this is telling me that somebody does not actually want to do a complete reset and start over with the setting. A lot of times with really complicated watches the setting can be really complicated.

that I did take a quick look at the service manual and in the quick look I'm not seeing an actual reset procedure. It might be there but I'm not seeing it. A lot of times with the watches there will be a indication of a reset contact visible and usually chart that to the ground of the watch and that will do a full complete reset the other on this I don't even see that listed in the electrical tests or any reference to it at all? That might be there somewhere it should be there I just didn't see it.

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah, I couldn't find anything either, other than newer revisions of the movement have a "power save" mode where the hands park at 12:00 and only the digital functions in the background with the screen blank. Then you hold two pushers at the same time to "wake it" where the hands jump to current time.

These early movements don't have this feature.

A "full reset" on this is to leave the battery out for five minutes or so. Then you get to reset everything... fast swap and you don't have to set date, time, GMT, and perpetual calendar over again.

Edited by Tudor
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Personally I would salvage the missing screws from some donor movement.  I also bought a random selection of screws "Assortment of Stainless Steel Watch Screws" for next to nothing.  As for using an Alum solution - I had great success with that removing a rusted stem from a stainless steel crown.  The best piece of advice I read on doing that was to keep the solution warm so that the reaction didn't take weeks!  I did it in a couple of hours with the solution in jam jar and the jam jar in a saucepan full of water which I left on an induction hob maintaining about 60C in the Alum solution.
    • I decided that it was time to tackle the piece that I'd set aside as my first project. The subject in question is a Gruen Veri-Thin pocket watch.  It winds and "runs".  On the time grapher, it has reasonable amplitude (240 or so depending on the position), but was loosing close to a minute a day.  The stem also has the annoying tendency to just come out when pulled, which makes it super hard to set the thing.  As with many things this one started sideways and just got more so.  I was able to overcome the mangled "tab" on the back case cover (a well placed, very sharp knife enabled me to get in when I couldn't get a purchase on the mangled tab with a case knife.)   I was then sort of shocked to find that one side of the dial was held down with some sort off tape or adhesive material as someone had broken the dial foot screw on that side and left the broken screw in the mail plate. The loose stem does in fact seem to have been a poorly tightened setting lever screw, but I'm afraid there may still be gremlins in the keyless works.  While I was able to get the stem to stay in by putting everything in the right place and tightening the setting lever screw (before I took it all apart for cleaning and inspection), it just didn't seem to all sit right. The final gremlin showed up when I was taking off the lower cap stones for the balance and escape wheel (yes the Gruen 380 seems to have a cape jewel on the escape wheel).  The balance stone came off fine (but that in fact is the smallest screw I've ever seen.  When I turned the movement around to get the one off the escape wheel setting, I found that the screw head had been mostly sheared off.  After some reading and looking at what I had, I decided to try and tease what was left of the screw out of the hole by nudging what was left with the corner of my smallest screwdriver.  After 20 minutes or so, I was able to get the remains of that screw out. The picture I'm including of the disassembled movement was taken before I got the second cap stone off, so in the picture, it's still attached to the main plate (for those looking carefully, you'll only see the one cap setting in the pic.) Now I'm left with: A broken dial screw inside the main plate that needs to come out A broken cap stone retention screw that I have in my parts tray, but that is strictly useless and needs to be replaced. The need to get another dial foot screw I'm contemplating solving the first problem by soaking the main plate in an alum solution.  I think the main plate is brass and shouldn't be affected, but I have not been able to confirm.  This seems like the easiest option as I can't really access both sides of the screw to use the pricey Bergeon tool (which I don't fancy buying unless I have to.) I have located a couple of donor movements and have questions out about whether or not the include the dial foot screw and prompting for pictures of the dial side so  evaluate the cap stone settings.  I've also found that a supplier in this country does have the cap stone settings, but isn't overly clear about whether the screws are included. Are these the types of things that one can scavenge out of assortments or is it best to just grab one of the donors assuming that they look like they have what I need?  
    • I visited this place last year just before they closed their counter service - amazing shop (filled from floor to ceiling!) and the guy that was working there was really knowledgeable and helpful!. Their website isn't as good as Cousins but I understand that if you fill out the contact form they have stuff that isn't on the site. https://gleave.london/mineral-flat-bottom-domed/
    • As always in this game the answer is “it depends “ because the first one worked out ok doesn’t mean all will. A case could be made in a way that it would not really matter much, sounds like your first example. However a case could also be made so that only a tension armoured crystal could be used. Generally you replace like for like to maintain the integrity of the watch.   Tom
×
×
  • Create New...