Jump to content

Glass polishing....It worked !


steve1811uk

Recommended Posts

Hi, just wanted to share in case it helps anyone. I made my first attempt at glass polishing recently and was very impressed with what I achieved as a first attempt.

Equipment used - Flat machined steel block approx 100 x 150mm.

Consumables - Silicon carbide grit paper, grades 600, 1000, 1500, 2000, 2500, 3000, 5000, 7000.

Also diamond based polishing compounds, 2.5, 1 and 0.5 micron.

I started off with the 600 paper on the metal block slightly wetted. I used some used rodico on the inside of the glass to protect from any stray abrasives. I spent less than 2 minutes rubbing in a circular motion while periodically rotating the glass by 90 degrees at a time. A milkyness would appear on the paper and that was the abraded glass particles.

IMG_20230821_190459922.thumb.jpg.ee3664c6914c101a79d2c29507ae0b12.jpg

IMG_20230821_191144582.thumb.jpg.bea2e258d277413e97776edcaebb5c4f.jpg

Then I moved on to the next finer grade. Between grades I would wash the glass surface and also wash the new piece of abrasive paper to get rid of any stray abrasives particles.

After each finer grade the translucence of the glass would be improved.

IMG_20230819_1838038812.thumb.jpg.3c3df024feae768800e9cd75f90490d9.jpg

After 7000 grade there was a certain kind of speckled textured when looking into the light through the glass.

IMG_20230822_2204589242.thumb.jpg.ed1bfff349582be98a2316ca619483e3.jpg

At this stage I used the 0.5 micron diamond paste on a small cotton Dremel wheel and ended up with a bit of a fine orange peel effect. Nicely polished but not what I wanted. I reverted back to the 2.5 micron paste and then used the 1 micron followed by the 0.5 micron and this gave the result I was after without any orange peel. Looking back I think that the 1 and 0.5 micron pastes didn't add much to what was achieved with the 2.5, maybe they made the glass just a bit more reflective.

IMG_20230822_212006173.thumb.jpg.d86042c8d9fa1695e6070fcc236d427a.jpg

If I was to do it again I would try and find some finer grade papers than 7000 and try and use those instead of the diamond paste to keep everything optically perfectly flat. Also I would try to minimise the glass loss of thickness as much as possible by using the harsher grades as little as possible (I ended up at 1.38mm from 1.45mm that I started off with, just under 5% loss).TBH though I am very happy with the results that look pretty much perfect to me.

IMG_20230824_0810094092.thumb.jpg.3e86301048c4cc2ae7abf118af701e86.jpg

Screenshot_20230818-095104.png

IMG_20230821_193036327~2.jpg

IMG_20230822_193706449~2.jpg

IMG_20230822_211413319.jpg

IMG_20230822_210828717~2.jpg

  • Like 3
  • Thanks 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

57 minutes ago, mikepilk said:

Nice job. 

It's worth noting that if you can find a replacement in the correct size, glasses are cheap .e.g. 1.5mm mineral glasses from Cousins are about £1.50

Of course, but this was a Seiko metal framed bonded glass from the 1970s and was unobtainable.

Just now, steve1811uk said:

Of course, but this was a Seiko metal framed bonded glass from the 1970s and was unobtainable.

With a fully polished bevelled edge. I did look for a glass with polished bevelled edge but couldn't find that also.

This has got me thinking now. How easy would it be to grind and polish a bevel onto a new piece of flat circular glass? I'm thinking Dremel tool, some kind of flat metal disc to stick the glass to with a thin post on the back to go into the Dremel chuck. Could shellac be used to stick the glass in place?

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 months later...
On 9/12/2023 at 8:06 PM, steve1811uk said:

If I was to do it again I would try and find some finer grade papers than 7000 and try and use those instead of the diamond paste to keep everything optically perfectly flat.

Thanks for your walkthrough! 👍

Was this a mineral crystal or a sapphire crystal? I'd very much assume it was a mineral crystal as I believe I read somewhere that sapphire is more or less impossible to polish, no?

I tried to find some finer grade silicon carbide grit paper than 7000 but the only one I found was this 11000 grit (2 micron) paper. Perhaps it would be useless with grits in between 7000 and 11000 when reaching such a fine level. Anyway, do you think 11000 would be fine enough? After all, there's quite a difference between 0.5 and 2 microns.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 9/12/2023 at 8:13 PM, steve1811uk said:

This has got me thinking now. How easy would it be to grind and polish a bevel onto a new piece of flat circular glass? I'm thinking Dremel tool, some kind of flat metal disc to stick the glass to with a thin post on the back to go into the Dremel chuck. Could shellac be used to stick the glass in place?

Yes it is possible to grind in a bevel edge to a flat glass. I made an attempt a couple of months ago at removing some chips from a bevel. I used a diamomd plate and some fine grade wet and dry . Revolved the glass by attaching it to a sucker in a  bench mounted drill.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/153447915747?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=nB_-9zebTVG&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=tBiLZaCfRb2&var=453396631343&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I decided that it was time to tackle the piece that I'd set aside as my first project. The subject in question is a Gruen Veri-Thin pocket watch.  It winds and "runs".  On the time grapher, it has reasonable amplitude (240 or so depending on the position), but was loosing close to a minute a day.  The stem also has the annoying tendency to just come out when pulled, which makes it super hard to set the thing.  As with many things this one started sideways and just got more so.  I was able to overcome the mangled "tab" on the back case cover (a well placed, very sharp knife enabled me to get in when I couldn't get a purchase on the mangled tab with a case knife.)   I was then sort of shocked to find that one side of the dial was held down with some sort off tape or adhesive material as someone had broken the dial foot screw on that side and left the broken screw in the mail plate. The loose stem does in fact seem to have been a poorly tightened setting lever screw, but I'm afraid there may still be gremlins in the keyless works.  While I was able to get the stem to stay in by putting everything in the right place and tightening the setting lever screw (before I took it all apart for cleaning and inspection), it just didn't seem to all sit right. The final gremlin showed up when I was taking off the lower cap stones for the balance and escape wheel (yes the Gruen 380 seems to have a cape jewel on the escape wheel).  The balance stone came off fine (but that in fact is the smallest screw I've ever seen.  When I turned the movement around to get the one off the escape wheel setting, I found that the screw head had been mostly sheared off.  After some reading and looking at what I had, I decided to try and tease what was left of the screw out of the hole by nudging what was left with the corner of my smallest screwdriver.  After 20 minutes or so, I was able to get the remains of that screw out. The picture I'm including of the disassembled movement was taken before I got the second cap stone off, so in the picture, it's still attached to the main plate (for those looking carefully, you'll only see the one cap setting in the pic.) Now I'm left with: A broken dial screw inside the main plate that needs to come out A broken cap stone retention screw that I have in my parts tray, but that is strictly useless and needs to be replaced. The need to get another dial foot screw I'm contemplating solving the first problem by soaking the main plate in an alum solution.  I think the main plate is brass and shouldn't be affected, but I have not been able to confirm.  This seems like the easiest option as I can't really access both sides of the screw to use the pricey Bergeon tool (which I don't fancy buying unless I have to.) I have located a couple of donor movements and have questions out about whether or not the include the dial foot screw and prompting for pictures of the dial side so  evaluate the cap stone settings.  I've also found that a supplier in this country does have the cap stone settings, but isn't overly clear about whether the screws are included. Are these the types of things that one can scavenge out of assortments or is it best to just grab one of the donors assuming that they look like they have what I need?  
    • I visited this place last year just before they closed their counter service - amazing shop (filled from floor to ceiling!) and the guy that was working there was really knowledgeable and helpful!. Their website isn't as good as Cousins but I understand that if you fill out the contact form they have stuff that isn't on the site. https://gleave.london/mineral-flat-bottom-domed/
    • As always in this game the answer is “it depends “ because the first one worked out ok doesn’t mean all will. A case could be made in a way that it would not really matter much, sounds like your first example. However a case could also be made so that only a tension armoured crystal could be used. Generally you replace like for like to maintain the integrity of the watch.   Tom
    • When can you use a standard crystal to replace one that had a tension ring? The first time I popped a crystal with a tension ring out of a watch I found that I had a suitable sized standard crystal and decided to try that.  It fit nicely and it was hard to see that anything was missing from the watch.  I understand that it probably reduced the water resistance of the watch but since it was an old dress watch it wasn't going for a swim anyway! I have since tried the same thing on another watch and found that the tension ring seemed to have an additional role of holding the dial in place.  With the standard crystal in there the dial and movement falls forward. This means it rattles in the case and falls forward and the hands fowl on the crystal (when the dial is down). Is there a trick I am missing here or does this watch require a special crystal?  I am reluctant to buy an expensive armoured crystal only to find I have the same problem.  
    • So I wrapped the anvil it in bubble wrap and passed ot through the demag only. Still no go—the unit is simply too strong.  next experiment is to use a VARIAC to lower the voltage and see if that reduces the magnetic field. 
×
×
  • Create New...