Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I'm working on a quartz watch marked only as "Swiss Army".  It has a glass crystal that was broken, and I was able to push it out from the back of the case, but now there are many small glass fragments stuck to the case with whatever adhesive was used to hold the crystal.  I'd like some advice on how to clean the case before installing the new crystal.

 

Walt

Posted
36 minutes ago, Walt said:

I'm working on a quartz watch marked only as "Swiss Army".  It has a glass crystal that was broken, and I was able to push it out from the back of the case, but now there are many small glass fragments stuck to the case with whatever adhesive was used to hold the crystal.  I'd like some advice on how to clean the case before installing the new crystal.

 

Walt

A picture would be nice.  Apart from that.  If the case is separate from the movement and you have removed any and all gaskets, soak the case in acetone which will loosen any glue.  Using pegwood or similar, clear away any softened glue and glass.  Then rinse in water followed by a rinse in IPA.  The last IPA rinse may not be necessary, but it drives away the water.

Replace gaskets. Install a new crystal. Reinstall the movement. 

  • Like 2
Posted (edited)

Thanks, I'll try acetone; I used lighter fluid but that didn't work. I don't know if you can make out the glass fragments it the upper right of the photo.

Untitled.jpg

Edited by Walt
  • Like 1
Posted

Hi there, I second the advice of @LittleWatchShop most times IPA will work, I usually just use a cotton bud (Q-tip) dipped in IPA and hold it on a small area, then after 30 seconds the glue becomes gummy and can be picked/scraped out with a tooth pick, sometimes you have to go back over the same area a few times. I think acetone would also work but may evaporate too quickly for the method above, also acetone can eat away at plastics in seconds so most of the time I only use it as a last resort. Looking at the picture it looks like there is no plastic to be damaged so you should be OK with acetone if it is all you have, but if you have the option I would try IPA first, and then switch to acetone if the IPA wasn't working.

Once you have removed the glue/glass from the case, I would make sure you give the case and any parts which may have come into contact with the broken glass a really good clean as even a small fragment of glass the size of a grain of salt (or even smaller) can stop your watch dead in its tracks, or any dust could act as an abrasive and lead to excessive wear in any moving parts.

  • Like 1
  • 2 months later...
Posted

MEK (methyl ethyl ketone) will dissolve about any adhesive if required. I'd try the above first because I'm sure MEK is not great for health. If nothing else works, saturate cotton ball or similar with MEK and leave in contact with the glue for 15 or 20 minutes. Then peel out softened adhesive with sharp pegwood or toothpick. Use MEK outside and don't get it on any plastics or finished surfaces as it will dissolve these promptly.  Available at hardware stores in USA. 

Posted

Based on other adhesives I have come across in watchmaking, mineral spirits could work as well.  So far, they have dissolved every glue and epoxy I have come across.

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Content

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I believe @nickelsilver has a setup like that.
    • I posted pictures earlier in this thread. My lathe and mill are two separate instruments. I think I have seen examples of putting a milling head on a lathe bed...but not certain.
    • Timex Camper, September 1994, new to me. Strap is an old perlon with "Germany" in script etched into the resin on the tail end. Not Horlon or Eulit I believe. History unknown, running strong, losing less than a minute a day. Goals for this: Wear it a ton! Buy crystal lift, clean out the gunk around the ring and under the crystal Eventually swap into a stainless steel case. I've seen a member who has swapped a Timex mechanical movement into the Timex J.Crew quartz field watch case.
    • One of the problems we would have with a watchmaker's lathe is they were made over considerable span of time and manufacturing in the early days probably wasn't as good as it was today. Then if you look at the older catalogs typically it was just the head a few collets and something to rest graver on. So basically a basic lathe with over time things acquired but acquired things may or may not fit. Order today you purchase a used lathe that all kinds of nifty bits and pieces from a seller that acquired from? This would come back to that the basic watchmaker's lathe was used for basic watchmaking like turning things with a hand graver. Then limited indexing is fine because you can make things like stems Which don't need a whole bunch indexing   In the link above the word vector is mentioned and at the link below you can purchase one. Then of course you're going to need the motor that's a little bit extra for the price. https://www.hswalsh.com/product/lathe-vector-watchmakers-48-collets-hl11. That you're going to need some bonus parts like these found this picture online show the classic way of classic gear cutting.   The lathe could have a much bigger indexing disk but it has to be mounted close to the edge. Otherwise you're going to have a whole bunch of smaller disks like this which I think has notches rather than holes. Then as wonderful as these pictures look actually cutting a gear with this is not entirely fun. Look at all is belts all pulling on things and this is a watchmaker's lathe lightweight with lots of bits and pieces attached. It would make more sense if you actually cut a gear with something like this and it tends to be it's not really the best way to do it looks nice on paper but it is not the best way to go. Reality for cutting watch parts would be a bigger machine is much better. Than getting rid of all those belts and pulleys also good. Here is an interesting channel I would've liked of found a different video but this was nice and short if you look at his video as he uses a stepping motor and worm gear assembly for the indexing plate. In this particular video it gets attached to the lathe at about one minute and seven seconds and it looks like it's hiding looks like he has a Sherline. I do know he's had other stuff you'll just have to go through his videos to find it. Then at about one minute and 22 seconds you find out if you set up things appropriately. It's always bad we end up with half a tooth at the very end. Then you will note big lathe yes he's getting a big gear but you could easily cut a watch gear with the setup. And it definitely way more stable than a watchmaker's lathe.         Oh here's a company they been in business since 1911 http://www.fwderbyshireinc.com/  
    • Hello and welcome from Leeds, England. 
×
×
  • Create New...