Jump to content

Some Bulova Help Please.....part 2


Recommended Posts

You might also have a look on the accutron site at rephrasing where they also cover the phenomenon called double and triple indexing, if it is not the battery the watch may need rephrasing to resolve issues

Cheers,

Vic

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Guys ,  I tried an accucell and it would only run and stop each time I pulled the crown out and in . It has a 344 cell now .  I also think that it's as you both suggest ...Indexing and phasing . 

I am expecting delivery of a stereo microscope any day now . The magnification will be good , but it has an led light ring around the lens which should greatly help in adjusting the indexing . My lighting setup is not very good for that operation .

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the replies fella ......  Well , I have an inexpensive micro camera from China called Microcapture . I decided to hook it up to my computer to look at the movement with the accucell in it...it was stoping and starting . This camera  is 20x but it has led lights that illuminate the index fingers and I can see them with a 10X loupe and on my computers screen . I first checked the hacking distance as described in the manual and it looked OK with the crown out . When I pushed the crown in it looked like the pawl jewel was at the wrong angle to the Index wheel . The jewel looked as if it was angled down too much instead of being parallel . So I said a hail-mary and started to correct the angle a little at a time , and lo and behold , the watch started running a little longer with each small adjustment .

  Even though I still have to figure out the phasing part , it is at least running with the lower voltage Accucell . I was/am intimidated working on this index stuff . 

I'm an electrician and I don't get this spooky working on energized 480 Volt circuits .

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Congratulations on what you have done so far, it is good that you were able to perceive what each slight adjustment acheived and that will add to the bank of knowledge.

 

Cheers,

 

Vic

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks guys . I'll keep trying . I even used a different browser . I'll take my laptop to a wi-fi spot and see if that works .

 

BTW , I just got my Stereo microscope today and man is the box heavy . The post lady couldn't carry it and I struggled carrying it up my stairs .  The bottom plate alone weighs 28 pounds . and the postage was $160.00 from Minnesota to Hawaii . I'm itching to put it together and try it out but I'm operating on my washing machine right ....what an expensive hassle that is . 

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Welcome. I am also French but living in Waltham Massachusetts near Boston. 
    • I've just finished servicing a JLC P478. When I got the watch it was missing the top balance jewels (endstone and cap). I ordered what I thought was the right jewels from Cousins, but what arrived was a jewel in a big brass setting with two screw holes, as if for non-shock proof movement. So I decided to try swapping in jewels from other movements to see if any would work. I tried jewels that matched the diameter of the bottom balance jewels of the JLC- like the Seiko 6119, or Incablocs fro ETA movements, but they were the wrong depth. I ended up with the jewels from a FHF 905. They had a slightly smaller diameter than the JLC ones but they fitted depth-wise perfectly, and the watch ran. But....the watch runs very well in all positions except for two of the vertical positions. I'm talking 290 degrees DU, DD, CD, CL, dropping to 150 degrees CU and CR. So the first question is: could ill-fitting jewels on one end of the balance cause this? If yes, then it would be good to get the correct jewels. I'm not familiar with JLC movements, so if anyone knows what the correct ones are then that would be great.
    • This happens because the air inside the watch expands and contracts, creating moisture. replica watches are more prone to condensation problems because they may not have the same level of quality and precision in their seals as authentic watches. So, to minimize condensation, it's essential to avoid exposing your replica watch to extreme temperature changes. Regular servicing is also crucial. This helps maintain the integrity of the seals and ensures that your watch is in good working condition. If you notice condensation in your replica watch, it's best to take it to a professional watchmaker for inspection and repair.
    • Hi StephDiver and welcome to the WRT forum.
    • Your general point is well made, but in my case I was talking about the teeny 0.2ml vials, e.g. 9010 for £6.87. This is considerably worse value for money unless this is all you need, in which case it's great! When you multiply by the ~5 different kinds of lubricant you need, it makes a big difference for a beginner.  0.2ml is plenty for a leisurely tinkerer as long as you're careful not to spill it! I made a little stand for the vials by drilling holes in a plastic bottle top. Then I carefully transfer a drop or two from an upright vial to a covered oiling cup using a large oiler as debated in another thread here.
×
×
  • Create New...