Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I just picked up a vintage Citizen Diver for daily wear , It's a 51-2273 model ...automatic . I have one already in much better shape in my collection but  I'll wear this one to work......I'm in construction .

 

post-808-0-01216400-1438326727_thumb.png

 

 

post-808-0-64673900-1438326755_thumb.png

 

 

I also picked up a very nice Seiko Fifty - Five Fathoms Diver . This is one Seiko diver I don't have yet....Automatic also .

Kinda nice looking .

 

 

post-808-0-00826900-1438327213_thumb.png

 

 

  • Like 4
Posted

Yeah, I'm really liking the 55 as well, Doing some reading on it now. 

 

I said that the 55 is one Seiko diver I don't  have yet , As a mater of fact ,  I do have this Seiko caliber already...3 of them are divers and I have some dress versions too . . It's a caliber 7S26 , which is also called a SKX007 if i'm not mistaken . I found out this morning that the 55 Fathoms is a mod {modification] watch .

 

This is what it looks like in its original form.....

 

post-808-0-43203600-1438393146_thumb.png

 

post-808-0-03824900-1438393181_thumb.png

 

On this one I changed the bezel insert to green , and installed a Sapphire Double Dome Anti-reflective crystal with a light blue tint....

 

post-808-0-13770900-1438393368_thumb.jpg

 

This one is another modification done by Da Gaz...they also sell modification dials , hands , bezel inserts , etc....

 

 

post-808-0-97843700-1438393500_thumb.jpg

Posted

If you're interested in Seiko divers try the following links:

https://archives.makedostudio.com/seiko-divers/ general info regarding all Seiko divers.

http://forums.watchuseek.com/f281/collectors-guide-all-seiko-7s26-0020-9-diver-variants-skx007-its-siblings-191450.html 7S26 series buying guide.

http://forums.watchuseek.com/f281/how-buy-seiko-7002-diver-collectors-buying-guide-258086.html 7002 series buying guide.

http://forums.watchuseek.com/f281/how-buy-seiko-6309-diver-collectors-buying-guide-140799.html 6309 series buying guide.

 

All series are very popular with the 6309 & earlier variants fetching ever higher prices while the 7002's remain reasonably priced. 7S26 variants are still available new - the SKX007K can be bought for around £150.

 

If buying older models beware, there is a lot of over polished, poorly serviced junk out there. As for the mods its really a matter of personal taste, some are good, some are bad, some are indifferent. Don't shy away from scrappers, they are good watches to hone your skills on, most of the original parts are available, although dials, bezels & hands are normally after-market.

 

Happy hunting.

  • Like 1
Posted

 Hi Blacklab , Actually I have a few Seiko and Citizen divers  . Seiko 7002 ,  6309- 7290 & 7040 & 7049 ,  7S26 ,  6105-8009 & 8110 [2]  and a 6R15-00G0 Sumo .

 

As for Citizens I have  a Lefty ,  51-2273 [2] , and Different Aqualand models .

 

This Seiko 6105-8110 is all original including the signed Seiko waffle strap...

 

post-808-0-38206800-1438463974_thumb.jpg

 

post-808-0-37751700-1438463999_thumb.jpg

 

This 6105-8110 I picked up in a pawn shop in rough shape . Luckily the gaskets were still supple and kept out the sea...yup , that's sea salt in the first pic . I cleaned it up and installed an AM dial , hands , and Sapphire crystal...

 

post-808-0-90601900-1438464152_thumb.jpg

 

post-808-0-12085900-1438464180_thumb.jpg

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Hello all, just disassembling to service, but I can’t figure out the working of the calendar work…it’s not operational the jumper and spring are ok, but the operation of the driving wheel has me at a loss. I can’t see a cam to drive anything. Is something damaged or missing? Help please!
    • Believe the relume (not a fan) was done a long time after the damage. 
    • I can only think of some chemical reaction to reluming
    • I have a little milling attachment for my WW lathe, but very rarely use it and not for wheel and pinion cutting. For that I use a small Sixis 101 milling machine. I normally do direct dividing, but sometimes have to do an odd count and use the universal index which also fits on the Sixis.   Back in the day when I didn't have a mill, I would cut gearing on my Schaublin 102. It has a universal dividing attachment which fits the back of the spindle. Both it and the one for the Sixis are 60:1 ratio, and with the set of 4  index plates I can do almost any division. When I've had to do a strange high count prime number, I print a disc with the needed division and just place the plunger on the dot. Any position error is reduced by a factor of 60 so still plenty accurate.   The machines are a mess in the pics as I'm in the process of making a batch of barrels for a wristwatch 🙃.   This is the Sixis. The head can also be placed vertically, as can the dividing spindle.   Dividing plates. The smaller ones fit another dividing spindle.   Universal divider for the Sixis. I put it together with parts from an odd Sixis spindle that takes w20 collets, like the Schaublin 102, and a dividing attachment from a Schaublin mill.     The dividing attachment for the 102. The gear fits in place of the handwheel at the back of the headstock.   And the little milling attachment for the WW lathe. I just set it on the slide rest to illustrate the size, you can see from the dust on it it really doesn't get used much. I think only when I change bearing in the head, to kiss the collet head seat (grinding wheel still in the milling attachment).
    • I read a lot about the quality (or lack thereof) of Seiko's 4R, 6R, 8L  movements...or more specifically the lack of regulation from the factory. Especially when compared to similar priced manufactures using SW200's or ETA's. I thought I'd ask those more in the know, do the 4R's and 6R's deserve their bad reputation, is it fairly easy for someone with minimal skills (or better yet a trained watch mechanic) to dial in these movements to a more acceptable performance.    For background I spent more on a 1861 Speedy years ago, expecting that the advertised 0-15s/d  would probably perform more like 5-7s/d. In reality it's been closed to 2-4s/d. 
×
×
  • Create New...