Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I have a watch with a set lever screw that has a very chewed up head, and it's difficult to get a screwdriver in there.  I'm considering fabricating a new one if I can't refurbish the head.

However, I have no idea how to tell what the thread pitch is.  If there are two dimensions to a screw (diameter and pitch), I'd need a testing jig that has every common combination of thread pitch and screw diameter, which as far as I'm aware doesn't exist.

I have one of those cheapo Indian tap and die sets (https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/0070mm-to-0200mm-indian), but that doesn't tell you thread pitch, only diameter.

Appreciate the help, thank you.

 

Posted

The screws used in Swiss watches (since the last 100 years or so?) are standardized, to NIHS norms. If you have a look at the Asco-Schurch catalog in the cutting tap section they show all the thread diameters and screw pitches (and tap drill sizes, really handy catalog). So if it's a Swiss watch, once you know the diameter, the pitch takes care of itself. I don't know about Japanese watches, and American stuff is all over the map. Antique stuff will often correspond to a Martin screwplate thread, which for the most part, in small sizes, tend to actually be quite close to the modern Swiss standard.

 

Asco-Schurch

  • Like 2
Posted (edited)

EDIT: Sorry, didn't read your entire post.

Thank you for the link, that is helpful to know.

What if the watch is not Swiss and/or is it over 100 years old?

Edited by GregG
  • Like 1
Posted
1 minute ago, GregG said:

Thank you for the link, that is helpful to know.

What if the watch is not Swiss and/or is it over 100 years old?

You'd have to measure, would really need a profile projector or toolmaker's microscope for watch size screws. Then, you'd have to make the die, haha. For antique stuff I've always managed with a Martin screwplate (there's L and B plates, Latard and Bourgeaux, slightly different pitches and diameters, B seems closest to modern metric); there's also Marin G, for gauche or left hand. Then there's Thury which was also Swiss, 19th century, and was adapted in the British Association threads, with a nice thread angle of 47.5 degrees. The Germans had other threads (I have a Ludwig & Fries plate here), the French had theirs, for antique stuff it's a huge subject. A lot of really old threads have quite odd forms, rounded crests and almost straight flanks, odd flank angles like the Thury. I know a world class clock restorer who has over 500 different screw plates, all classified, and can replicate just about any screw for any clock with those.

 

Nowadays you could make about anything you want with a relatively cheap Sherline CNC lathe I suppose.

Posted
21 hours ago, nickelsilver said:

Nowadays you could make about anything you want with a relatively cheap Sherline CNC lathe I suppose.

That's the dream.  Unfortunately I just don't have the time, money, space, or expertise to work with one.

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

I measured a Waltham plate screw today...just for grins.

140 TPI and 1mm thread diameter.

I have a thread gauge that goes to 74 TPI.  I carefully match up the gauge teeth to every other thread for those greater than 74 TPI.

  • Like 1

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Search 'PCB carbide drill bits'. They come in sets of 10 or 50 and have 3.175mm tail. They are cheap rather than affordable. Using this drill bits has been discussed here many times - they are longer than needed and easy to break, so it is useful to practice sharpening hem and drilling some useless parts to gather some experience before real work.
    • I'm a newb who is a bit late to the party here. I've purchased a Horia movement holder clone. And I'm aware that the support pins for the SW500 chronograph jewels can be different sizes. I purchased 0.8mm pins with the holder. These were all that were available at the time. Will these be the right size? Can someone shed a little light on this for me please?
    • That looks fantastic! I'm obviously a little late to the party here. Can you tell me where you sourced the case that you used in this build?
    • If pivot shoulder almost touches the mainplate, you will see lower amplitude and free oscilation comes to stop quicker. Such touching can stop the watch. This caliber is based on FHF, I think. So some parts of a cheaper movement of same caliber might interchange.  Both observation point to pivot worn short, which support you suspect , "worn pivot".  The problem with pivots wear to this point is , though the watch runs, pivots can easily jump out of jewel holes in the event of shock, pivots are actually not touching the end stones.   Classic watch repair recommends staff replacement or elongating pivots. Non classic let's you flip the end stones to have the dome side of end stone facing the pivot end, this will somewhat or wholly  compensate for the wear.  Regs  
    • This watch has a pin end mainspring. It's a blued steel spring and may be the original >100 year old part. As you can see, it is quite set. Can anyone suggest where I might be able to obtain such a spring today? Dimensions: Height: 140 Thickness: 010 Arbor diameter: 340 Barrel diameter 989 (1/100 mm)  
×
×
  • Create New...