Jump to content

Non-luminous re-lume


Recommended Posts

It’s time to spritz my Seamaster. I’ll service the movement and do a minor clean of everything else. The challenge I foresee is the crumbling lume on the hands. What should I replace it with? I don’t want empty hands.

This watch is 61 years old, so none of the lume has been active for several half-lives, either on the hands or the dots on the dial. I have some lume compound, but I don’t want to use that. I want to re-lume with non-lume, if that makes sense. Anyone else done this? What should I use with the binder? Chalk?

PXL_20230109_112217533~2.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 minutes ago, mrkrsl said:

This watch is 61 years old, so none of the lume has been active for several half-lives, either on the hands or the dots on the dial. 

By using the phrase 'half-lives', I assume that it is radium? If so, the half life is 1600 years, so it will still be very active. 

It can be removed safely with the hands in water. It looks like there may also be dots of lume on the hour markers.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It's true, it could well be radium. I believe Omega switched from radium to tritium (half life: 12.3 years) in 1962. This watch dates to '62, so I will be cautious. It is crumbling anyway, so it has to go. I will leave the dots on the dial untouched.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, mrkrsl said:

This watch is 61 years old, so none of the lume has been active for several half-lives, either on the hands or the dots on the dial. I have some lume compound, but I don’t want to use that. I want to re-lume with non-lume, if that makes sense. Anyone else done this? What should I use with the binder? Chalk?

 

I've used colored chalk ground up very fine mixed with lacquer to replicate the old lume in some vintage Omegas (like Ranchero). It should be fairly easy on your hands with their thin slot- the big Ranchero hands are a pain finding the right consistency/mix of chalk to lacquer, taking into account contraction and thinning as it dries.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

33 minutes ago, nickelsilver said:

I've used colored chalk ground up very fine mixed with lacquer to replicate the old lume in some vintage Omegas (like Ranchero). It should be fairly easy on your hands with their thin slot- the big Ranchero hands are a pain finding the right consistency/mix of chalk to lacquer, taking into account contraction and thinning as it dries.

Good to hear you've had success with chalk as that was where my thoughts were going. I will pound the chalk in the pestle and mortar before mixing so it is as fine as I can make it. Thank you. And yes, there's a very slender gap for lume on these hands, so spread shouldn't be too challenging.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You don't have to do without glowing.
I use non-radiating lume (color: nature) and mix to required color with color powder from the artists shop.

l use special laquer, but you can use e.g. clear model paint and mix with above.

Frank

Hands_lum.jpg.ffbe76f7af4c93b56e1605bd5a1fb8b4.jpg

 

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The nice thing about luming hands is that it's easy to practice and perform tests and trial runs because random spare hands are either sitting in our parts bins or cheap to acquire.  I can't say how they will look in 30 years, but I've had good luck simply using "brushing lacquer" from the hardware store as the base, and suspending a lume powder in that to get to the 80/20% settled ratio that is shown on Dr. Ranfft's website in the archived "Luminous Paste" reference section.  Powdered chalk has been discussed in this forum previously in a thread entitled "Color Matching Old Lume." Whatever powder is used should be of a uniform, fine consistency. 

Frank - did you do the numerals on that dial? I like the look of fully-lumed arabic numerals on a black dial, but have wondered how difficult it is to get reasonable results by hand-painting.  

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Please OH, we should all be proud of our collections what ever they are. If we can't show them off here then we can't show them anywhere. Our favourite gives us a story to tell of why we love it, that story also tells others something about ourselves. These are some of the things that make our forum and our community so amazing .
    • I can take pictures when I am home of what it looks like.  They will be phone picture as I don't have a camera in my microscope yet but I should be able to take a few views to give a good idea of the damage.
    • One I have and it's a French Strike on a bell with Garnish worth around £1,000. I'll take a photo of it tomorrow so you can see it. 
    • When you are having fun restoring false economy exits via a window. Your time and money dont always matter Col , what does matter is that you breathed new life into something that was dead and destined for a scrap heap. That has to feel good doesn't it ? Some of my favourite watches to wear are my first attempts at repair. With a face that only its repairer can love , Rolexes pah !!! give me a Smiths pin pallet any day of the week. 
    • Hi, I'm Ciaran from Manchester. I've have been teaching myself watch repair since January. Funnily enough it started with me replacing straps when I was laid up with a knee injury. It grew from there after coming across the YouTube channels Watch Repair Tutorials, Chronoglide, and that of this forum's owner.  My first proper repair job was disassembling and reassembling an ETA 955.112 (with the help of a video by Mark and a walkthrough from this forum.  Since then I've completed a few services of ST36s, as well as a truly battered AS 340 which had more things wrong with it than it did right.  I'm currently working on a pocket watch from WW2 - which I'll be attempting to fit a new balance staff to. As well as a Tissot 781-1.  For those of you on Instagram I'm there also: https://www.instagram.com/ciaranwatchrepair?igsh=MWZ3bHNmdDUzdGhqbQ== Happy to have found another place to talk watch repair   
×
×
  • Create New...