Jump to content

Citizen 5500 where to get the proper gasket


Recommended Posts

I’ve successfully replaced the batteries in about 10 quartz electric watches that were collecting dust.  The last one I worked on is this Men’s Citizen gold tone day date 5500-s24485.  I was not pleased with the fit of the case back and when I looked closely the gasket is damaged.  I own two of these and this is the older.  When I took it in to J C Penney’s a long time ago,to have the battery replaced, the repair guy said it was no longer working and I bought an identical one. Now I think I know why it was not working because the crown stem was hard to turn.  Worked well no.  
Where would I go for gaskets and how do I find a part number? I’ve not had luck with a Google search.

Also on the open case back there’s the word “push” with an arrow. For what is that instruction provided ?

C9E74784-A778-4B08-9F4E-C0486CA53FCD.jpeg

D66B71D7-C996-4A4B-82B0-70E376542F97.jpeg

F426CA8B-C4F2-4490-A17F-AEF9DBD972ED.jpeg

5FE5848C-59DF-45F6-8337-B9047128A5A5.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

9 hours ago, MF60 said:

Now I think I know why it was not working because the crown stem was hard to turn.  Worked well no.  
Where would I go for gaskets and how do I find a part number? I’ve not had luck with a Google search.

You really can't tell if it's a crown gasket issue unless you take the movement out as it could be a movement issue. And often times people just replace the crown rather than the gaskets. Or you can buy generic Assortments of crown gaskets and use one of those.

9 hours ago, MF60 said:

Also on the open case back there’s the word “push” with an arrow. For what is that instruction provided ?

Who trying to tell you something Which is how to get the stem out. Often times the part is sort of hidden and to help people out the pill you where It is. But sometimes only reveal itself if the stem is in the right position.

Then you may find the attached technical guide of use

1021_Citizen 5500, 5501, 5502, 5503, 5510, 5511, 5530A.pdf

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 12/24/2022 at 3:34 PM, JohnR725 said:

You really can't tell if it's a crown gasket issue unless you take the movement out as it could be a movement issue. And often times people just replace the crown rather than the gaskets. Or you can buy generic Assortments of crown gaskets and use one of those.

Who trying to tell you something Which is how to get the stem out. Often times the part is sort of hidden and to help people out the pill you where It is. But sometimes only reveal itself if the stem is in the right position.

Then you may find the attached technical guide of use

1021_Citizen 5500, 5501, 5502, 5503, 5510, 5511, 5530A.pdf 328.98 kB · 1 download

The technical guide!  Wow, what a lovely Christmas gift.  Thank you!

Merry Christmas to all!
Mark

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Hi Bob, Welcome to the forum and thank you for your service.  I would never try to discourage you from getting into this wonderful hobby/profession, but please be aware, it does not cost just a few dollars to get into watch repair.  Tools are expensive and in many instances the cheap knockoffs are worthless, especially when learning.  You can get the tools needed to disassemble, clean, inspect, reassemble and lubricate a watch without spending thousands, but as soon as you start getting into task-specific tools, there are so many and they don’t come cheap.  My suggestion is to start with the basics required to disassemble, clean, inspect, reassemble and lubricate only, and build upon that gradually as the need for other tools arises.  The advice above regarding starting out on working movements is gold. Many of the non-running watches on eBay have been bought, tinkered with, deemed too difficult and then sold again, often with more damage done each time.  Without experience, you clean and service a non-runner and it still doesn’t run. What now? Troubleshooting is difficult as a beginner. This can become very frustrating.  I would encourage you to buy a working movement, and learn to strip and service it. If it isn’t running afterwards, you know it’s down to you, and as long as you didn’t damage anything you know that the parts you’ve got can form a ticking watch. An excellent movement to start with is the ETA 6497 clones from China, such as the ST36. They’re not expensive, and although it finds use in some larger wristwatches, this movement was originally designed for use in pocket watches, so everything is larger and easier to see and handle.  Once you can service a new ST36 and have it running better than it did when it arrived, you’re definitely ready to step up to working vintage watches and then think about repair of non running or poorly running watches.  As far as cleaning solutions go, you will not do better than the commercial watch cleaning and rinsing solutions that are available. You’ll find plenty of suggestions for home brew cleaners online, but the professional products are superior and you want to give yourself every advantage you can, especially when you start working on vintage movements containing hardened decomposed lubricants and often years worth of other dirt and dust. Alcohol is ok for cleaning or rinsing movement parts that don’t contain any shellac. The pallet fork and roller table contain jewels secured with shellac and will tolerate a rinse in alcohol but not prolonged exposure. Methanol dissolves shellac faster than ethanol, and isopropyl alcohol dissolves shellac slower than ethanol. Just in case you don’t know already, the radium on the dial (and likely the hands) of your Dad’s Elgin is highly radioactive. It is safe enough when safely contained within the watch case, but the moment you open the watch and especially when handling the dial or hands you must take precautions against inhaling or ingesting any radium.  Best Regards, Mark
    • I have both sets and use the K&D 99% of the time.  Yes, you have to be careful with the pin.  I use a screwdriver to carefully release the pin from the spring.  Some skill is involved.   I have also modified/replaced the pins in the arbors as necessary.  Yeah, you would think a tool would not require modification, but such is the world of watchmaking.  There is no perfect tool.  Each watchmaker must the tools to his skill, or vice versa.
    • I have the 8-11mm K&D but it doesn't do a great job with modern mainsprings, or I have had terrible luck. The arbor pin protrudes too much and I have damaged more springs trying to disengage the arbor than I have successfully wound and inserted. It seems easier to use with old carbon steel springs. My Watchctaft set gets far more use, though I have to get creative to wind left hand springs
    • It depends on what the gaskets are made from but silicone lubricant should work.  Spray or rub on a generous amount, put in a sealed bag and wait a couple of days.  Test for softness and wipe off the excess.  
    • For hardened gaskets, an experienced watchmaker told me he usually found heat to be the best to soften them up. I tried that on a '70's Tissot where the gasket had turned to essentially epoxy to no avail, but eventually got it off with a 5700 case back opener using a crowbar for leverage to turn the wheel.
×
×
  • Create New...