Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi,

Finishing up a nice 1959 Bulova 11AFK and am having trouble keeping the sweep second hand attached. I'm assuming the problem is with the hole having worn on the sweep second hand (vs the sweep pinion). 

Besides purchasing a NOS from eBay or a generic replacement, are there any techniques that someone can share on how to tighten the hole (I dont have a closing punch small enough in my staking set). 

I did think about super glue, but only for a second.....

I've included a photo--thanks in advance for any help. Levine98

 

 

IMG_0588.jpg

Posted

Leave the end of the sweep second hand as is ( with worn or larger diameter) as this ensures easy fitting of the sweep hand on its arbour, tighten the tube at its mid- length  with a nail clipper.

Good luck

 

Correction , 

the end of the tube  of the sweep second hand.

  • Like 2
  • Thanks 1
Posted
4 hours ago, RedVitus said:

One method is tightening in a lathe collet. I've had success using it for a wristwatch seconds hand.  

VideoCapture_20221024-173406.thumb.jpg.a1eeb8ee70a54456b882f99beb496e6d.jpg

 

I've had similar results with a good quality pin vice but very steady as she goes as you are tightening the full length of  the tube. Joe's idea of the nail clippers makes broaching easier if over enthusiastic with the tightening and also aids the fitting by not reducing the start of the opening. 

Posted
1 hour ago, Levine98 said:

Thanks, I’ll give it a try with the nail clippers. 

Put a rod in the tube (a needle might do it) to prevent it collapsing completely when you use the nail clippers

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)
10 hours ago, Neverenoughwatches said:

I've had similar results with a good quality pin vice but very steady as she goes as you are tightening the full length of  the tube. Joe's idea of the nail clippers makes broaching easier if over enthusiastic with the tightening and also aids the fitting by not reducing the start of the opening. 

Good point. Maybe I was lucky 😉 There is risk any way you do it though. If one uses a numbered collet same diameter as the tube then it mitigates some of the risk I would think. Further, If tightened just to the point where the tube no longer can move, not further, then that should be enough for a first pass try.

Edited by RedVitus
  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

I don't think I have a needle that small—what about using the sweep second hand pinion to ensure I don’t press in the tube too far? I assume it’s hardened steel and not easily damaged if handled with care? Reason I’m asking is I don’t have a collet (or a lathe) so will be attempting the nail clipper fix.

Edited by Levine98
Posted
4 minutes ago, RedVitus said:

Good point. Maybe I was lucky 😉 There is risk any way you do it though. If one uses a numbered collet same diameter as the tube then it mitigates some of the risk I would think. Further, If tightened just to the point where the tube no longer can move, not further, then that should be enough for a first pass try.

Eyup matey. I was meaning more for the pin vice that has less control than a collet, a lot of beginners wont have a lathe and collets.

9 minutes ago, Levine98 said:

I don't think I have a needle that small—what about using the sweep second hand pinion to ensure I don’t press in the tube too far? I assume it’s hardened steel and not easily damaged if handled with care? Reason I’m asking is I don’t have a collet (or a lathe) so will be attempting the nail clipper fix.

🤔 maybe with good control. Personally myself i would probably risk it. A broach ? I use acupuncture needles for lots of things, homemade oilers, hooks, tweekers, pushers, pullers etc.  These start at aound 0.18mm and go up to 0.3mm, around 5-8 quid for a box of one hundred. Stainless steel , very bendy and worth having in your tool kit. 

  • Like 1
Posted
20 minutes ago, Levine98 said:

I don't think I have a needle that small—what about using the sweep second hand pinion to ensure I don’t press in the tube too far? I assume it’s hardened steel and not easily damaged if handled with care? Reason I’m asking is I don’t have a collet (or a lathe) so will be attempting the nail clipper fix.

Steel guitar strings go from about 0.10 to 0.5 mm. A 'G' string should do nicely at about 0.17mm.

Or sharpen an old oiler to a fine point. 

  • Like 1
Posted
23 minutes ago, mikepilk said:

Steel guitar strings go from about 0.10 to 0.5 mm. A 'G' string should do nicely at about 0.17mm.

Or sharpen an old oiler to a fine point. 

This is a great addition to the acupuncture needles Mike. Increases the size range. 👍. Good for making clic and return springs as well.

Posted

So a couple of things.

First, thak you to all who offered suggestions. In the end, I was able to sort out the loose sweep second hand issue, but not as I had orignally thought.

After checking the sweep second hand pinion by measuring it and comparing it to a like movement and then fitting the sweep second hand on to it outside of the movement, I realized the issue was my mis-diagnosing the problem.

In point of fact what I was doing wrong was applying the sweep second hand onto the pinion while the movement was mounted in a movement holder, so the sweep second hand was never getting pushed down firmly enough on to the pinion (which is spring loaded). Having realized this, I simply held down that pinon on the bottom of the movement while pressing the sweep second hand on, problem solved.... Attached is a picture of the watch cased and ready to go (kind of, now my next question.

One of the things I was not able to accomplish is fitting a fresh gasket to case. This is supposed to be a waterproof watch, but when I first cracked open the case I had to remove the old gaskets because they were deteriorated beyond use. Unfortunately I have not been able to find any NOS gaskets for this watch, and none of the flat gaskets I have in my assortment package from Otto Frei come close to fitting (all too wide plus too small or too large diameter).

I tried carving up one from my assortment pile to make it fit, but it is very sloppy and I know it is not right.

Any suggestions?  

 

IMG_0594.jpg

Ring.jpg

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • HI everyone Some context: I'm "in love" with old Timex. As someone who has always liked watches, I knew Timex (my first watch and another project) but, in fact, the brand had never really caught my attention. By pure chance I bought, in a set of two others watches, a small m24 that was sold as not working (run and stop), which actually started working by setting the date by manually moving the hands (15 days). This coincidence made me interested in its history, its reputation, simplicity/complexity of the movements and also because some were made in Portugal back in 70’s and 80’s. A few days later I found this beautiful 1975 Viscount, m33 (very low price, almost offered) and this is where I need your help.  It is in very good condition and works well (-20s per day is not a problem for me), and although the day of the week changes correctly, the date is "stuck" on the 10th. I live in a small town that only has one watchmaker and when I purchased this watch (and having read about these movements) I thought that since it was something theoretically "simple" (probably not related to the movement), he would easily solve the problem. I couldn't be more wrong. It was as if I had proposed a pact with the devil. He refused and said he wouldn't touch the watch (although he had serviced several of my watches before - Seikos and old Swiss brands). He suggested I wear the watch like this or trash it. As I mentioned in my presentation to the forum, I have some experience in digital watches, but in manual watches I am a complete beginner. I know how to remove hands, crowns and little else. I've been doing my homework, reading the technical manual and watching a few videos on YouTube. I think I can get to the part of removing the dial without any major problems. I know that in the Date Frame there is a wheel that at the top has a tab that activates the Day Wheel and that at the bottom activates the Date Lever My aim is to try not to ruin anything and  get the date working again. The help I needed (I intend to post photos) is that what should I expect? What are the most common problems that cause this system to get stuck (in this case just the date).   PS -  My secondary objective is to buy a strap at a overpriced value from the watchmaker just to rub it in his face that I managed to get the watch working properly. PS2 - In the photos you can see that before midnight the day of the week is already changing but the day of the month has not changed.   Sorry about the english. Best Regards Vasco  
    • What is it from and how did it become bent ? It should bend back - I would heat it whilst bending
    • Ha, same here. I just looked and I've lots of pictures of my cars, be hardly any of me - I have a face better suited for radio. I did find this from about 20+ years ago. I'm the young looking one at the back, under the front nozzle.  
    • I have a 6564 with me what is take a same tropic 12 crystal,most likely have the same parameters for the bezel. Do you need the measurement for that?
×
×
  • Create New...