Trying to close the mainspring barrel pivot, but the hole simply will not close up

[GregG]

9 hours ago, ifibrin said:

Actually, I would be interested in some photos of the faceplate, especially on how to hold pieces (such as a mainplate) where it’s not entirely flat along the entire circumference. How do you keep the hole you are inserting perpendicular to the axis on a faceplate?

I'm sorry I haven't gotten you the picture yet.  I decided to do some more restoration work on my Seitz tool.  I applied some paint stripper and it's down to the bare metal now.  Then I put it through my buffing machine and the entire thing has a mirror finish to it.  This weekend I'm going to spray paint it glossy black, and maybe embellish it with some gold leaf XD. 
The faceplate is symmetric around it's circumference, but not symmetric radially.  There are channels cut into the faceplate, but the movement plate just sits on the high sections, so I didn't have any issue about perpendicularity.  I can't prove that it was 100% perpendicular, but it worked, so there's some merit to it.

[mikepilk]

3 hours ago, Neverenoughwatches said:

Thanks Mike. Good hear someone elses experiences and get overs .

Choosing the right sized punch with a balance of leaving enough of the mainplate untouched but not so small that the new created arbor hole is too thin. Learning to bush a hole woukd be the next step forward.

Bushing would be great, but (mostly) impractical. The bridge above is 0.3mm thick. 

I've looked at using jewels for upper arbor bushing, but I cannot find any large enough. The above arbor needs a 1.4mm hole, the largest jewel shown on Cousins is 1.10 mm hole. And the largest brass bushing has a hole size 1.2 mm.

I guess if you have a lathe (I don't) you could make them. But could you secure them in 0.3 mm brass ?

[ifibrin]

10 hours ago, mikepilk said:

Bushing would be great, but (mostly) impractical. The bridge above is 0.3mm thick. 

I've looked at using jewels for upper arbor bushing, but I cannot find any large enough. The above arbor needs a 1.4mm hole, the largest jewel shown on Cousins is 1.10 mm hole. And the largest brass bushing has a hole size 1.2 mm.

I guess if you have a lathe (I don't) you could make them. But could you secure them in 0.3 mm brass ?

I wonder if it’s possible to use a watchmakers lathe to make a glass jewel for the barrel arbor: would it be easier than making a jewel from ruby? @nickelsilver, do you think this is possible, and easier than making a jewel from ruby?

[VWatchie]

I have a barrel bridge arbor bearing that needs a slight reduction. I have never closed a barrel bridge arbor hole before and my staking set has a very limited number of doomed punches and most of them are too small (go through the hole) or too short to fit in the lower section of my inverto-style Boley & Leinen staking tool. So, I'm considering ordering a few doomed punches from CousinsUK. My question is what sizes I should order? Is there a rule of thumb relating to the hole diameter?

I too worried that reducing the hole size would increase the end-shake. Especially as Kalle Slaap talks about end-shake at the end of the video at 7:43, but then he just glosses over it by saying "You can just gently push the material back in", which I don't get at all 

Anyway, I feel a lot less worried now after having seen @mikepilk's excellent illustration. Thanks!