Jump to content

Pocket watch movement removal mystery


Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I am just getting into watch repair as a hobby so please bear with me…

I bought this nice DF&C pocket watch on eBay as a first practice. It was already running OK and I recall reading some advice which said to try disassembling a working watch to see if you could reassemble it and still have it work as a test!

Anyway, unfortunately I can’t for the life of me figure out how to remove the stem so that I can remove the movement. I already have some experience of this with modding Seikos and removing the movement from a couple of other pocket watches. There is no little screw nor lever to release the stem. The front of the pocket watch can’t open, only the back. Maybe it is a two piece stem? From what I can see the stem beyond the movement is a little corroded which could maybe make it a bit stiff? I’ve done a lot of Googling and also removed the case screws + part disassembled the movement inside the case to see if anything obvious would present itself but nope. I didn’t want to force anything either in case I broke something.

Any help much appreciated, thank you!!

Here are pictures with the movement in place (just crown and ratchet wheel off) and also one with all the bridges removed to reveal some of the keyless works. Please let me know if any other pictures would be helpful. Thank you!

72684CB4-ED02-428D-919E-36FB9F545F5B.jpeg

847880A3-8D86-4516-9BFC-C314D18B4E4A.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, ivanUK said:

pocket watch on eBay as a first practice.

while it's true we recommend starting with something bigger the problem with pocket watches are is a lot of variations of how things work including how to take the watch of the case.

how about we pretend this is an American pocket watch? I don't have the best picture it's a little bit confusing. In pocket watches a lot of them if there is no screw to release the stem the stem probably stays in the case. So the stem that's in the case the square part goes into what I have in the image below there's a square opening at the end.

so on American pocket watches and a lot a European watches you would remove the case screws removed the front of the case make sure the watches in setting position and then just push the movement out starting at the opposite side of where the stem goes in and the movement should just come out.

 

pocket watch no stem.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Hello! Thank you so much for this help and apologies for not responding sooner. Personal circumstances prevented me from re-engaging with the hobby for a while. But good news: it took me a while to convince myself that the front of the pocket watch could be prised off, but I managed in the end and this method worked a charm! I look forward to working on the movement properly now 🙂 many thanks again

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Good question!! Anyone know of a substitute movement??!! 🤔🙏
    • Interesting issue that I just noticed: this Seiko 5actus Watch from 1977 has a calibre listing on the dial of 7019-8030R but on the case back it says 7019-8010!! Like a mis-printed coin, is this watch therefore worth a lot of money for its rarity?? 🤪😲🤔🤪
    • I wish that was the case. The Aegler movements used in the early days by Wilsdorf & Davis (for brands like Rolex and Rolco) came in several sizes and without designated calibre numbers that survive.  They become a bit easier to identify during the 1920s. Below is an Aegler-Rebberg, 25.74mm in diameter. It’s from a woman’s Rolex wristwatch. Stamped Rebberg and 500 on the dial plate (but it isn’t a Rebberg 500, it’s the wrong size).  I’d be interested if anyone can identify the movement.  It is based off the Aegler Nr.1, circa 1903, but they based many many calibres of different sizes on it. The closest I have to a positive ID is the  ‘Rolex Nr.50’ circa 1917, but no dial side images or movement sizes are available in the references. There are identical looking movements in many sizes.  The 25.74mm of this movement is a particularly strange size for the era, it equates to 11.41 lignes.      Best Regards, Mark
    • It looks like this movement comes with a number of different shock settings. Emmywatch shows that it comes in versions with no shock settings, 'Incabloc', 'shock resist', and 'Supershock'. Perhaps the different settings position the impulse jewel/roller table in a non-ideal position relative to the pallet fork/guard pin. Are you able to check under high magnification if the pallet fork and roller table are able to operate without any interference? Just for fun I took a look and I have one FHF 70 in my collection, a West End Secundus with a non-shock protected FHF70. I had a note with the watch that said, "Movement is stamped 'FHF 70', but the FHF70 looks to have sub-seconds instead of center seconds movement (??)" but that a google search turned up both types for this movement. EDIT: I just took a look in my parts drawer and I have a few of these movements, both in center seconds and sweep seconds, but they all are non-shock protected.  
    • Any info on this watch would help. I know that it's sterling from London but I could not match the o letter date or make out makers mark.  Is the movement maker Camberwell or Lamberwell?   If I give it a twist it will run for about ten seconds.  $45 yard sale find.  I don't think that I want to service a fusee.  What quality is it?
×
×
  • Create New...