Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

Hi there I have a Rotary GS03862 and can't find out how to remove the stem to get to the watch face. Please could someone give me any tips?

2 minutes ago, watchdan said:

Hi there I have a Rotary GS03682 and can't find out how to remove the stem to get to the watch face. Please could someone give me any tips?

 

16646275917815303140124538834613.jpg

Edited by watchdan
Posted

As with any fashion watch the name on the dial doesn't mean much, that however is a cheap Chinese mov.t

It appears that the stem is removed by directly lifting the setting lever but the picture isn't clear enough to tell where exactly.

Posted
29 minutes ago, watchdan said:

Hi there I have a Rotary GS03862 and can't find out how to remove the stem to get to the watch face. Please could someone give me any tips?

 

16646275917815303140124538834613.jpg

Eyup matey can you improve the clarity in this area please.

16646275917815303140124538834613.thumb.jpg.19cf2e491c5de70e3f907211dfc8d214-1.jpg

Posted

Thanks! Is that better?

PXL_20221001_130419849.jpg

Or maybe this 

PXL_20221001_130454821.MP.jpg

4 minutes ago, Neverenoughwatches said:

Eyup matey can you improve the clarity in this area please.

16646275917815303140124538834613.thumb.jpg.19cf2e491c5de70e3f907211dfc8d214-1.jpg

Popped some photos above. I've circled the bit in yellow where there's a lever that seems to move but no dimple or anything to release!

PXL_20221001_130454821.MP~2.jpg

1 hour ago, jdm said:

As with any fashion watch the name on the dial doesn't mean much, that however is a cheap Chinese mov.t

It appears that the stem is removed by directly lifting the setting lever but the picture isn't clear enough to tell where exactly.

Thanks! I've posted a clearer picture now. Does that help?

Posted (edited)

I've had to work on one of these beastly things before.  I'm going to try to include a picture of where I recall applying pressure to release the stem (now included on a following post).  On most mechanical watches, the set lever is the only thing holding the stem in.  And it does that by resting in a groove in the stem.  If you keep in mind that you must loosen the set lever's grip in that stem-groove somehow, then it becomes a matter of how to do that.  Some mechanical watches have a screw which goes through the set lever and by loosening the screw, you loosen the lever.  This watch movement, though, has a set lever that works like a see-saw.  You push down on one side, the other side (the finger-in-the-groove side) comes up.  The idea is to get the set lever out of the stem groove - carefully.  Oh!  And before pulling the stem, on this kind I have found it to be slightly easier to pull the stem when it is pushed in, in its "winding mode".  Not all watches are like that.  You learn these things as you go.  But like I mentioned, go slowly and carefully with this one.  Some of the parts are fragile and others are ill-fitting.

Edited by KarlvonKoln
edited for clarity
  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Posted
16 minutes ago, KarlvonKoln said:

I've had to work on one of these beastly things before.  I'm going to try to include a picture of where I recall applying pressure to release the stem.  On most mechanical watches, the set lever is the only thing holding the stem in.  And it does that by resting in a groove in the stem.  If you keep in mind that you must loosen the set lever's grip in that stem-groove somehow, then it becomes a matter of how to do that.  Some mechanical watches have a screw which goes through the set lever and by loosening the screw, you loosen the lever.  This watch movement, though, has a set lever that works like a see-saw.  You push down on one side, the other side (the finger-in-the-groove side) comes up.  The idea is to get the set lever out of the stem groove - carefully.  Oh!  And before pulling the stem, on this kind I have found it to be slightly easier to pull the stem when it is pushed in, in its "winding mode".  Not all watches are like that.  You learn these things as you go.  But like I mentioned, go slowly and carefully with this one.  Some of the parts are fragile and others are ill-fitting.

CH-2189.jpg

Thanks! It doesn't appear to have that here! I've attached another pic from a different angle.

PXL_20221001_141635533.jpg

Posted
2 minutes ago, watchdan said:

Thanks! It doesn't appear to have that here! I've attached another pic from a different angle.

PXL_20221001_141635533.jpg

It's there; I can see it.  See the new picture I posted; it's better than my other one.  Those little touch-points are aggravating to search for until you get used to it.  (Sometimes, even if you've been doing this a while, they're still aggravating to look for).  But remember, it's like a see-saw.  You just need to find the other end.

Posted (edited)
17 minutes ago, KarlvonKoln said:

Yep.  2189 is the silver one.  2189G is the gold plated one. I found a better picture, so I removed the one I posted so as not to mislead.

DSC03323___.jpg

Thanks!! That worked! Now I'm at the front of the watch I can see the second hand is loose and wobbling right and left (making the watch go forward in time rapidly!) Any idea how to tighten it?

Edited by watchdan
Posted
10 minutes ago, watchdan said:

Now I'm at the front of the watch I can see the second hand is loose and wobbling right and left (making the watch go forward in time rapidly!) Any idea how to tighten it?

Egad!  I hope that isn't what I think it is.  Can you do a video?

 

Posted
10 minutes ago, KarlvonKoln said:

Egad!  I hope that isn't what I think it is.  Can you do a video?

 

I've just popped out but essentially the second hand swings around in a clockwise circle rapidly when the watch is moved. The second hand had fallen off and I tried to reattach it by pushing it in/ screwing it in. How should it reattach?

Posted

Oh.  Maybe it was just loose.

It's friction-fit.  You should be able to just gently push it back on.

For a moment, I thought the watch had begun to run rapidly and was spinning the second hand around the dial.

Posted
30 minutes ago, KarlvonKoln said:

Oh.  Maybe it was just loose.

It's friction-fit.  You should be able to just gently push it back on.

For a moment, I thought the watch had begun to run rapidly and was spinning the second hand around the dial.

Yes it started to do that when I pushed the second hand back on!

Posted
17 minutes ago, watchdan said:

Yes it started to do that when I pushed the second hand back on!

At this point, we would need to see a video of the movement when it's doing that.  Particularly a nice clear video of all the escapement in action while the second hand does that.  But don't make it a long video; I'm thinking there could be damage.  I think I know what's going on but I don't want to say something and misdiagnose for you.  If the movement is doing what you describe, matters will get complicated for it.

Posted
2 hours ago, KarlvonKoln said:

I've had to work on one of these beastly things before.  I'm going to try to include a picture of where I recall applying pressure to release the stem (now included on a following post).  On most mechanical watches, the set lever is the only thing holding the stem in.  And it does that by resting in a groove in the stem.  If you keep in mind that you must loosen the set lever's grip in that stem-groove somehow, then it becomes a matter of how to do that.  Some mechanical watches have a screw which goes through the set lever and by loosening the screw, you loosen the lever.  This watch movement, though, has a set lever that works like a see-saw.  You push down on one side, the other side (the finger-in-the-groove side) comes up.  The idea is to get the set lever out of the stem groove - carefully.  Oh!  And before pulling the stem, on this kind I have found it to be slightly easier to pull the stem when it is pushed in, in its "winding mode".  Not all watches are like that.  You learn these things as you go.  But like I mentioned, go slowly and carefully with this one.  Some of the parts are fragile and others are ill-fitting.

Really good clear explanation for beginners of part integration,  engagement  and accurate instructions of how to disengage them 👍

  • Like 1

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Righty ho, I re-serviced the chrono module and got a reasonable result with minimal loss of amplitude when not running the chrono and about 30 degrees loss when running. Great. The problem is now that the chrono (and movement) stops running after about a minute or so, a tap on the watch starts it running again. No issues with the movement running when the chrono is stopped. Going to service it yet again, obviously some residual issues with friction in the chrono module (Very frustrating - I wish there was some way of testing it as I go!) I also seem to have a problem with the cannon pinion where the movement is running continuously (with the chrono stopped) but it's losing significant time / stopping. This is one of those two piece ETA style with a driving wheel pressed over the cannon pinion, obviously arranged for driving the chrono module. I had no issues with this prior to service and just added a small amount of grease between the driving wheel and the centre cannon pinion as the technical guide required. What's the best way of tightening these up? I would like to replace it but I guess this is going to be hard to find as it is dedicated to the DD chrono movement. 
    • He uses the micrometer cap, but he leaves the spring out (you can see that in the video). If you leave the spring in, the spindle will move up as well (as shown by @Knebo).
    • Seems like he doesn't have the micrometer cap  attached to the spindle so he can only push down but cannot pull up? If the cap screws into the spindle I guess you don't need the spring? I only have a "normal" Seitz so I really have no idea. 
    • Do you have a part number for the bearing shim lock tool?
    • Yes in my opinion the 3/4HP is plenty but it’s your decision & yes it does come with speed control but foot operation so my reason for changing to potentiometer was because my leg shakes so it was like me revving the lathe & anyway I prefer to set the speed. I & a few others that I recommended the motor to run a Pultra 10mm lathe so if you have a 6 or 8mm B & L then it will be plenty, if you have seen any of my videos you will have seen that when using a graver I run quite slow without any problems. Dell
×
×
  • Create New...