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Hi Fixer,

 

Your explanation of the fault and of how the Automatic Work winds the watch was outstanding.

Knowing how to identify faults is key to advancing your skills, and your description on how to pin-point this fault will help lots of people.

Looking forward to seeing more vids from you mate.

 

I would however use a watchmakers work mat instead of a cotton quilt.  It only takes one fibre from that quilt to stop the movement dead in it's tracks.

I posted a walkthrough of a watch I repaired, which was found on a rubbish tip, and the only reason it had stopped running was a single filament that had wedged between the wheels.

 

post-246-0-58888300-1435361093_thumb.jpg

 

Please don't let this criticism discourage you Fixer, it was meant only to be constructive advise.

Keep the vids coming mate!! :)

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Being pedantic, it is the the last wheel in the the auto gearbox that is the problem, not the ratchet wheel. That said, the video was excellent as it clearly shows what is a fairly common problem, and how to resolve it.

I would still recommend a full service, because if this pinion had seized up, there is a very good chance that there are a lot more dry bearings in the watch needing lubricated.

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Good clear video.

 

Here are my thoughts:

 

as Lawson said, work on a hard surface which you can clean first - you don't want micro fibres transferring to the movement.

When lifting the auto bridge from the movement it can be helpful to push forward the crown (as if you are winding it) which will make it easier to disengage the wheels as they will not be under pressure from the ratchet wheel.

After cleaning or during assembly it's not advisable to touch parts with your finger if at all possible.

If lubricating, first clean away any old lubricant even if you can't see it. Soaking the parts in lighter fluid will do if you do not have a cleaning machine. Then you can lubricate.

The reversing wheels should be spotless and then lubricated with Lubeta V105 for best performance.

 

I hope this helps :)

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