Jump to content

Waltham Stopwatch Disassembly Help

TwistyHairspring
 Share

Recommended Posts

TwistyHairspring Member

TwistyHairspring

Posted
Posted

I am new to the hobby and looking for some advice. This Waltham stopwatch has these 3 'barrelnuts'  They must be removed for full disassembly. There is no wrenching feature, so I had to remove them with pliers, which scuffed them up a bit (shown).  They are still fully functional, I am just wondering if there is a clever removal method I may have overlooked. They are internally threaded, a jam nut would be my usual solution, but I have never tried that on such a small scale.

Thanks!

Twisty

Waltham.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites
JohnR725 Distinguished Member

JohnR725

Posted
Posted
2 hours ago, TwistyHairspring said:

Waltham stopwatch

does this watch have a model number?

2 hours ago, TwistyHairspring said:

This Waltham stopwatch has these 3 'barrelnuts'  They must be removed for full disassembly. There is no wrenching feature, so I had to remove them with pliers, which scuffed them up a bit (shown).  They are still fully functional, I am just wondering if there is a clever removal method I may have overlooked. They are internally threaded, a jam nut would be my usual solution, but I have never tried that on such a small scale.

okay so they must be removed but there doesn't seem to be in a practical removal method? How do you know that they must be removed?

Then did you think about taking the movement out of the case?

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites
nickelsilver Distinguished Member

nickelsilver

Posted
Posted

I can't imagine a reason that these need to come out, is it just to be "complete" about the disassembly? If they really do have to come out, I would grip them in a lathe in a collet and twist the mainplate to coax them out. In the case they were scarred up like yours I would again use a lathe to resurface them.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
JohnR725 Distinguished Member

JohnR725

Posted
Posted
11 hours ago, nickelsilver said:

I can't imagine a reason that these need to come out,

the other mystery here is the movement is still in the case? Usually people servicing a watch remove it from the case with some minor exceptions. Then I don't know how many stopwatches somebodies done but usually the dial comes off with the hands the hands are not removed separately the dial the hands in the heart-shaped cams underneath all come off as one unit otherwise are a pain to put that back together again especially if you're really enthusiastic taking the hands of

so we still have the watch in the case that still seems odd to me?

 

 

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
JohnR725 Distinguished Member

JohnR725

Posted
Posted

tiny bit of information on your movement below. From the 1948 parts catalog a little bit on stop watch repair. That I have another book that does show this movement unfortunately it's a book so I'll have to get around to scanning at a couple of days if you would like to see it.

https://pocketwatchdatabase.com/search/result/waltham/31793867

W-S2.jpg

W-S3.jpg

W-S1.jpg

  • Like 2
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...
JohnR725 Distinguished Member

JohnR725

Posted
Posted
On 9/16/2022 at 6:44 AM, TwistyHairspring said:

without removing the barrel nuts

did remember to scan the book made it into a PDF. You notice the watch goes by several numbers but it is the same number on your watch so this is the right watch. Choose disassembly and the parts list. You'll notice the so-called barrel nuts do not come off in the disassembly and are part of the main plate in the parts list. At least I'm not seeing him as a separate component so you can leave them on.

Waltham timer.PDF

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
Neverenoughwatches Distinguished Member

Neverenoughwatches

Posted
Posted
On 9/14/2022 at 12:15 AM, TwistyHairspring said:

I am new to the hobby and looking for some advice. This Waltham stopwatch has these 3 'barrelnuts'  They must be removed for full disassembly. There is no wrenching feature, so I had to remove them with pliers, which scuffed them up a bit (shown).  They are still fully functional, I am just wondering if there is a clever removal method I may have overlooked. They are internally threaded, a jam nut would be my usual solution, but I have never tried that on such a small scale.

Thanks!

Twisty

Waltham.jpg

Hmm. It looks like a rat has chewed and spat them out ( not particularly helpful i know  ) . I dont think they were designed to be removed. The screws dont have a home now 🤔

On 9/16/2022 at 2:44 PM, TwistyHairspring said:

I am going back together with the watch, but here it is outside the case. This is about as much disassembly as you can do without removing the barrel nuts.

Thanks for the help!

T

Bare movement.jpg

I still dont understand why they needed to be removed.  They were there to hold screws from both sides, hence their use 🤔

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • rph952
      Watch won't run after installing new balance for Seiko A-201 sportsman

      By rph952 · Posted

      I installed the donor pallet fork and now the watch is running, but only for 10 seconds. The lower side of the pallet fork only seems to go into the hole when I add the bridge. A visual check shows lower and upper are properly seated. I'll check the hairspring.
    • GPrideaux
      Struggling with 1917 watch

      By GPrideaux · Posted

      I get that, but you're making unnecessary work for yourself. Resign yourself to having to give the movement a final clean and lubrication once you've fixed the problem. You probably won't need to redo the balance or the barrel in any case. The oil captured between the hole and cap jewels will still be good even if you've had it in and out of the movement half a dozen times.
    • graemeW
      Struggling with 1917 watch

      By graemeW · Posted

      Thanks, some great advice. I have to go over the train every time I refit anything as each wheel has it's own bridge (cock?). They have a tiny amount of play so you can tighten them down in slightly different positions. This changes the gear mesh. I went through all that when I first started having issues with it. Movement works isn't fitted at the moment and nor is the seconds hand. The only reason I'm cleaning it every time is because each time I assemble it, I lubricate it. Mainly because you have to remove the balance wheel and hairspring to oil the top balance jewel. It's a pain so I always live in hope it will be going together for the last time. As the top one has to be oiled, so does the bottom one. Then I may as well do the train wheels.... I could just do the whole thing dry, but if it works, I'll still have to disassemble the balance again and it's always a risk. The hair spring is pinned, the cap jewel screws are underneath (stupid design. To be fair, the 3 separate bridges is a stupid design too).   I'll play with it more tomorrow and gather some more info, pics, and maybe some video.   Thanks for all the advice.
    • GPrideaux
      Struggling with 1917 watch

      By GPrideaux · Posted

      It's not great, IF you did the test without the pallet installed. Assuming 18000 beats per day, 25 seconds is 125 beats or about 62 oscillations. You should get 100 or more. If the pallet was in place when you did the test it means nothing. Either way, this is not the principal issue. I was going to mention that I recently worked out that I get much better pics with a loupe held in front of the phone camera than trying to shoot down the microscope. I use a 20x loupe, but try with whatever you have. The roller jewel (or impulse jewel) could be an issue, particularly if it is loose, but this is also not the main issue. Get some clear pics so you can ask the experienced members here about it after you have addressed the main issue. Nothing in the escapement explains the rapid deterioration you're seeing 20 minutes after winding. That suggests an issue in the train rather than the escapement. The failure to self-start after it has been running a while confirms that power is not getting to the escapement. If it was me, and I was confident I had eliminated the barrel as the source of the problem, I'd be looking further down the train. I'd first make sure the canon pinion was out to eliminate the motion works as a source of the problem. Also make sure the centre seconds pivot is removed, if it has one, or the seconds hand if it has sub-seconds. If that didn't make a difference I'd then work my way through each wheel starting at the centre wheel. Is it sitting level? At the right height? Does it have just enough end shake? Does it have excessive side shake? What happens if you touch the upper pivot with a piece of pegwood with just a little bit of power in the mainspring? What about the lower pivot? Once I was certain there was no problem there I'd move on to the third wheel, and so on all the way down the train. Just because the train runs freely with the pallet out does not mean it has no problems as excessive side shake (for example) will only be an issue when the train is under tension. Finally, I advise you to stop re-cleaning until you have fixed it. I know the temptation, but it's just a distraction. You need to be systematic and methodical.
    • HectorLooi
      Independent battery chime in mantel clock?

      By HectorLooi · Posted

      If you short the two blue wires together, does the unit chime? I have a similar chime unit that is designed to work with a quartz movement with an hourly trigger switch.  I'm not aware of any movements or chiming units that chime quarterly.
×
×
  • Create New...