Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Picked this up for $5 at a yard sale. Brought it to the jeweler to get the battery replaced. In a hurry I didn’t realize it wasn’t ticking until I got home. (Thanks for nothing jeweler). 


Anyways now I feel a bit determined to get it running but have no experience in this. Took the back off and can see the coil doesn’t look perfect. From googling this seems to maybe be the issue? Also the battery doesn’t really stay “seated” it flys out unless held in place. 

Anyone know what model this is? Anywhere to order a coil from? Worth it as a little project for a $5 find?

D6EE4E75-910F-4A12-AA2C-7B5334648BB7.jpeg

6154D4D6-6915-47FB-8F7A-BB91167C3A8B.jpeg

Posted (edited)
On 9/12/2022 at 8:59 PM, Charlie89 said:

Picked this up for $5 at a yard sale. Brought it to the jeweler to get the battery replaced. In a hurry I didn’t realize it wasn’t ticking until I got home. (Thanks for nothing jeweler). 


Anyways now I feel a bit determined to get it running but have no experience in this. Took the back off and can see the coil doesn’t look perfect. From googling this seems to maybe be the issue? Also the battery doesn’t really stay “seated” it flys out unless held in place. 

Anyone know what model this is? Anywhere to order a coil from? Worth it as a little project for a $5 find?

D6EE4E75-910F-4A12-AA2C-7B5334648BB7.jpeg

6154D4D6-6915-47FB-8F7A-BB91167C3A8B.jpeg

Someone has been a little rough and clumsy with the coil hopefully not your jeweler. You could test it for continuity but i think that its pretty much a given that it is damged. Not particulary difficult to change when they are seperate to the circuit board, just be very careful to avoid handling by the copper coils. Sometimes they are paint  or varnish  protected to toughen them up for handling,  this one looks like raw copper. The battery is held  in place by the tab as indicated, not a great design but fairly standard for Jap. Movements.  The battery can flip out, be sure it is seated effectively under the tab. Look out for any leaked battery residue as this will eventually corrode the circuit board. Happy repairing 👍

6154D4D6-6915-47FB-8F7A-BB91167C3A8B.thumb.jpeg.a6d760958026ad5229216f5e5a155389.jpeg.jpg

Edited by Neverenoughwatches
Posted

Hi The coil looks a bit suspect, parts can be had from Jules Borel  USA. I have checked and the coil is available  at $11.70 on their site.  But first check the battery is ok  as I have known some not work and If Jeweler's change battery's and if the watch does not start they give up as they have no means of testing the watch,  Check out Borel's 

Attached the tech sheet for you.

766_Seiko 8123.pdf

  • Like 1
Posted
On 9/12/2022 at 12:59 PM, Charlie89 said:

Brought it to the jeweler to get the battery replaced. In a hurry I didn’t realize it wasn’t ticking until I got home. (Thanks for nothing jeweler). 

depending upon what you paid take it back to the jewelry store and say it doesn't work.

This is why it's better to go to someplace specializes in batteries the good places will usually give you some kind of a warranty in other words the money you already paid will go to a repair. Good places will usually tell you whether the watch works are not. The problem is anybody can change a battery and it's a fast way to make money but not necessarily good for the customer. 

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
On 9/12/2022 at 8:59 PM, Charlie89 said:

Picked this up for $5 at a yard sale. Brought it to the jeweler to get the battery replaced. In a hurry I didn’t realize it wasn’t ticking until I got home. (Thanks for nothing jeweler). 


Anyways now I feel a bit determined to get it running but have no experience in this. Took the back off and can see the coil doesn’t look perfect. From googling this seems to maybe be the issue? Also the battery doesn’t really stay “seated” it flys out unless held in place. 

Anyone know what model this is? Anywhere to order a coil from? Worth it as a little project for a $5 find?

D6EE4E75-910F-4A12-AA2C-7B5334648BB7.jpeg

6154D4D6-6915-47FB-8F7A-BB91167C3A8B.jpeg

Any luck with getting this one sorted?

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I am puzzled by something a snipped out something from your image and what exactly disassemble tell us? my confusion is the symbol for FHF looks like image I have below year symbol as a star and righted this instant are not finding what that means? I suppose we could use the fingerprint system to verify it really is what it claimed to be. Size itself is really interesting there's almost no watches in that particular size. Then were missing details in the photograph above like diameter of movements to verify it really is the size and are missing the setting components.   went to the bestfit book looking at the symbols didn't see it. Look at the link below I did find it back to the bestfit book and yes it really is there https://reference.grail-watch.com/documents/history-of-ebauches-sa/ then bestfit book says lists the size as 10 1/2. one of the problems with vintage watches is finding parts yes a donor watch would be good.
    • Actually, this could be the issue. Drag from the module could be overcoming the cannon pinion. It was definitely not at the point that the driving wheel was loose on the cannon pinion, it took a little bit of effort to rotate it when applying the grease. Maybe I need to look again at applying oil to the pivots.    Yeah, it's very annoying. I don't want to give up on it, so back on with it over again until I catch a break. 
    • The sping is not pushing directly on the cap, but is pushing against the spindle. So, even if the usual black cap is replaced with the micrometer cap, the spindle is still pushed up.
    • But he tells that the micrometer cap doesn't screw into the spindle. How can the spring push the spindle up if there's nothing to grip? There is a screw visible on top of the micrometer cap so should it be able to screw into the spindle? I'm feeling really dumb now. Does anyone manufacture that cap as an aftermarket item? Might be worth investing. Ok so the spindle is different, now I get it.
    • I suppose? If it worked before and it doesn't work now I guess the question would be why does it not work now? That would come back to if you did not have the chronograph module on will it work or is the chronograph module sucking too much power out of the watch basically 99 usually when they go bad you can hold on the tube part and usually just spin the wheel because it has zero holding at all so usually when they go bad they go bad very bad. You should build hotel when you set the watch as to whether it seems to have any friction or not. I'm just wondering if the chronograph module is the problem.
×
×
  • Create New...