Jump to content

Beginner's pocket watch - 1925 Elgin Grade 315

jmarcott86
 Share

Recommended Posts

jmarcott86 New Member

jmarcott86

Posted
Posted

So I decided I wanted to learn how to fix watches, as one does, and after many nights browsing eBay I decided to jump in and buy this beautiful little watch. It wasn't running at all when I got it, and the keyless works were all stuck and it wasn't moving the hands when the crown was pulled out. I disassembled and cleaned everything, and even bought a microscope to try servicing the balance jewels (almost losing a screw or two in the process). The crystal is in very good condition, and the dial is nearly pristine, and cleaned up very nicely with a bit of distilled water and a microfiber swab.

After a couple of weekends troubleshooting piece by piece I got everything running, and after lubricating everything it's running well and keeping very good time. The time grapher app I'm using on my PC suggests it's running +/- 5 seconds with around 290 degrees amplitude, but the beat error is pretty bad at around 4 ms. I tried adjusting that too, but when I took the balance off and inspected the hairspring under the scope I noticed a partial fracture of the hairspring collet! I found a donor movement for $12 though, so hopefully it has a good hairspring I can swap in 

20220730_015830.jpg

20220730_015853.jpg

20220730_015909.jpg

20220730_020135.jpg

  • Like 2
JohnR725 Distinguished Member

JohnR725

Posted
Posted
27 minutes ago, jmarcott86 said:

I noticed a partial fracture of the hairspring collet!

Unfortunately all too common on pocket watches in which case it's best to leave it alone.

28 minutes ago, jmarcott86 said:

I found a donor movement for $12 though, so hopefully it has a good hairspring I can swap in 

As you're new here just a reminder swapping hairsprings usually leads to timing issues. Typically on modern watches you cannot swap the hairspring as each hairspring is vibrated to that exact balance wheel. In the case of the Elgin watch You can swap the hairspring but You will have to match the balance wheel to the hairspring. In other words  there will be some timing adjustment issues.

I would try to swap the entire balance wheel and who knows you might be lucky and it might just swap but probably won't.

29 minutes ago, jmarcott86 said:

PC suggests it's running +/- 5 seconds with around 290 degrees amplitude, but the beat error is pretty bad at around 4 ms.

Your PC is suggesting excellent timing wonderful amplitude and why do we care about the beat now? Of course there is the problem of how does the watch really run over 24 hours versus the timing. Plus I assume you looked at the timing and more than one position? But it's back to is it worth trying to fix the beat error?

 

  • Like 1
watchweasol Distinguished Member

watchweasol

Posted
Posted

Hi  John is absolutly right in what he says  some times its a case if it not broke then dont fix it, its a nice looking watch and running well enough for its age. well done for getting it working again.

jmarcott86 New Member

jmarcott86

Posted
  • Author
Posted

That totally makes sense that the balance and spring go together. As long as it runs well I could probably live with the beat error. I just have to give it a bit of a twist to get it running. It's not consistent in all positions (about +/- 60 seconds stem up/down, but I'm not sure it was even when it was new since it's an unadjusted movement.

I'll probably just keep the donor movement as a spare in case the collet on this one ever completely breaks.

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • nickelsilver
      A lathe with indexing that won't break the bank?

      By nickelsilver · Posted

      I have a little milling attachment for my WW lathe, but very rarely use it and not for wheel and pinion cutting. For that I use a small Sixis 101 milling machine. I normally do direct dividing, but sometimes have to do an odd count and use the universal index which also fits on the Sixis.   Back in the day when I didn't have a mill, I would cut gearing on my Schaublin 102. It has a universal dividing attachment which fits the back of the spindle. Both it and the one for the Sixis are 60:1 ratio, and with the set of 4  index plates I can do almost any division. When I've had to do a strange high count prime number, I print a disc with the needed division and just place the plunger on the dot. Any position error is reduced by a factor of 60 so still plenty accurate.   The machines are a mess in the pics as I'm in the process of making a batch of barrels for a wristwatch 🙃.   This is the Sixis. The head can also be placed vertically, as can the dividing spindle.   Dividing plates. The smaller ones fit another dividing spindle.   Universal divider for the Sixis. I put it together with parts from an odd Sixis spindle that takes w20 collets, like the Schaublin 102, and a dividing attachment from a Schaublin mill.     The dividing attachment for the 102. The gear fits in place of the handwheel at the back of the headstock.   And the little milling attachment for the WW lathe. I just set it on the slide rest to illustrate the size, you can see from the dust on it it really doesn't get used much. I think only when I change bearing in the head, to kiss the collet head seat (grinding wheel still in the milling attachment).
    • SidKop
      Opinions on Seiko's 4R and 6R movement quality from those more able to judge

      By SidKop · Posted

      I read a lot about the quality (or lack thereof) of Seiko's 4R, 6R, 8L  movements...or more specifically the lack of regulation from the factory. Especially when compared to similar priced manufactures using SW200's or ETA's. I thought I'd ask those more in the know, do the 4R's and 6R's deserve their bad reputation, is it fairly easy for someone with minimal skills (or better yet a trained watch mechanic) to dial in these movements to a more acceptable performance.    For background I spent more on a 1861 Speedy years ago, expecting that the advertised 0-15s/d  would probably perform more like 5-7s/d. In reality it's been closed to 2-4s/d. 
    • watchweasol
      Greetings From Nottinghamshire, United Kingdom

      By watchweasol · Posted

      Welcome to the forum enjoy
    • tomh207
      A lathe with indexing that won't break the bank?

      By tomh207 · Posted

      @ChrisInOz your not Chris as in Clickspring are you?🤪 looks similar to some solutions I have seen him do.   Tom
    • tIB
      Unusual Seiko dial damage

      By tIB · Posted

      Potentially not the right place to post this and it's one of those where I'm not looking for a solution but rather thought you'd like to see it... Picked up a sketchy looking 6105-8000 the other day, the dial on which I've never seen the likes of before... The paint has literally solidified and lifted away from the dial in places, I'm some parts completely (and has been touched up with a matte black).  I showed it to someone who works on and has a healthy obsession with these things - they told me they've seen this before on less than a handful of old Seiko dials, and think it's caused by water sitting on the sides and corrosion.  It's quite a mess, but at least most of it is still there! Not sure about that relume either, though I should add I went to this eyes wide open price wise and the rest of the watch is good.  Pics:  
×
×
  • Create New...