Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I am still confused on what is meant by ETA and UNITAS?

 

Do they both use same size dials, cases and hands?

 

Is there somewhere that can explain this vast array of different movements.

 

My reason is I fancy trying what I have read is a modded watch and I would like say a 44mm Case,now is there only certain movements for these cases and certain dials and hands?

 

Total noob here and it may be obvious and I am just missing that link to slot into my distressed brain cell

 

Thanks

Posted

Unitas was an early Swiss make that was eventually taken over by, and incorporated into the ETA group of movements. Two of the most common ETA/Unitas movements are the 6497 and 6498 movements - plus variations. They were essentially small pocket watch movements which, these days, have been used as large wrist watch movements in brands like Hamilton Khaki. The usual case size for these movements is 44mm, excluding crown, though I believe that 42mm cases will fit - and some as large as 48mm.

 

You can tell the origins of the ETA 6497 as a pocket watch because the seconds sub-dial is at 9 o'clock instead of the more usual 6 o'clock - reflecting the way the original pocket watch sub-dial - at 6 o'clock - would have stood in relation to the crown - at 12 o'clock!

 

There are also Asian versions of the 6497 and 6498 - Seagull being one - which have virtually the same specs but perhaps without the same finish and precision.

 

Because of the popularity and availability of these large movements, it's possible to buy a wide selection of dials, hands and cases for them. This is my own custom variation, using parts from Hong Kong - the movement being an Asian 6497 copy of an ETA 6497:

 

http://www.willswatchpages.com/custom-6497.html

 

Hope that helps a bit,

 

Will

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I find myself in a frustrating situation, and if I have learned anything yet it's that there might be a specific old tool to get me out of it. I am rebuilding an early grade Elgin 18 size full plate movement, just restaffed and installed a new roller jewel. Next I found that the pallet stones were loose and added shellac to them, reassembled but the watch does not run. Observing the escapement through the holes, it is clear the entry stone needs to move in slightly. So I know what I need to do at this stage, but I fully expect to need a few adjustments of one or both stones. I don't want to move the banking pins because it did want to tick before I noticed the pallets were not secure. Question is, on a full plate movement this is incredibly inconvenient to make a change, let the shellac harden, and reassemble the entire full plate watch in order to observe the escapement action.  It can only be seen from the dial side through the small holes in the pillar plate, so even the balance must be installed in order to manually operate it from the back. Anyone know how this was done 120 years ago? Is there a tool or fixture that can be used for the job outside the watch? Depthing tool maybe? You all like pictures, so here are some. Final cleaning has not happened yet, thus the dirt and oil on the 4th wheel jewel.
    • Okay,   I will try to help if I have enough knowledge to write a reply to someone or if I have information to share. Thank you so much for writing a reply. Have a nice day.
    • I think this is one of the two DVDs that I bought.  I can't find them at the moment. I think the other one was "WORKSHOP PROCEDURES." Both were very worth watching.  I remember a section on making lantern pinions that was excellent,  and also a demonstration of cutting an internal ring gear. Not sure if that was on this disc or the other one. I expect you would find the DVD interesting if you have time to watch it.
    • It depends on the exact movement and jewel in that. If such a size is available to buy. Not impossible, but likely a small percentage of types overall. Most of the time it's more economical to buy a replacement plate or bridge from ebay; the tooling needed to replace jewels is expensive and probably rarely used, unless you are running a dedicated watch repair business.
    • Yes every single watch in the universe can be repaired. But he was asking a question about getting a parts movement. So now you get the task of showing him how to repair the watch without getting a parts movement I'm sure it shouldn't be a problem at all for someone of your skill set
×
×
  • Create New...