Jump to content

Bulova microscope...useful as a general-purpose bench tool?


LittleWatchShop

Recommended Posts

The idea hit me...the microscope is stored in the closet in its pretty little wooden box--I do not work on Accutrons.  My Dad bought it.  I remember him asking my opinion--I was graduating engineering school.  It is pristine.

I have a stereo microscope with a very nice and huge boom stand...too big for the bench.  I use it for inspection often.

So...why not use this cute little thing on the bench.  It has limitations of course.

I am going to give it a try and see just how useful it can be.  I am sure @JohnR725has an opinion.  I am sure he has one.

20220111_185801.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just now, HectorLooi said:

Why not?

Because I have not mastered the other stuff!!  I have a friend who asked me to fix his.  I want to (he is a friend), but I feel it may be a steep learning curve.  Also I have about six clocks in the queue, another Vulcain Cricket, and a drawer full of miscellaneous mechanicals.  I will never get bored.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Looks like you've got your hands full.

But Accutrons are really interesting. They are the only watches with true burnt coils, unlike quartz watches. Quartz coils normally break when someone slips with a screwdriver and scratch the surface. Accutrons have open coils with absolutely no visible physical damage.

If one can repair the burnt coils, Accutron owners will beat a path to his front door.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, HectorLooi said:

If one can repair the burnt coils,

Fuzzy memories they can't white focus on? Some worry saw the suggestion that the wire breaks at the solder connection. With the suggestion that may be the protective coating holding the wire is maybe? Don't love was thermal expansion and differences of something but basically the wire would break right at the joint. With the suggestion that you could just apply a little solder and fix the wire again. Zero idea how that plays out in real life. 

Typically as far as physical destruction it was only the 218 cell coils that got destroyed from bad battery changing. This is why supposedly in the US we ran out a cell coils before everywhere else in the world because all sorts of interesting people change batteries with zero experience. Basically all the places where you get a battery change the watch that they barely grasp what a watches. My favorite used to be what I'd go to whether drugstores in the old days we get a film processed and did look on the floor you'd see spring bars because in addition to taking your film and getting a process to change the battery in your watch how much skill could be required to do that obviously none.

Then I believe there's somebody out there that rewinds the coil's.

4 hours ago, LittleWatchShop said:

I am sure @JohnR725has an opinion.  I am sure he has one.

You suspected correctly that I have one it's sitting in the other room now with its protective cover on. Yes it should be in the box but not quite sure where the boxes right now. Considering the price it really isn't a bad microscope and it does exactly what it's supposed to do. I find typically I have a hard time using stereo microscopes as my left thigh is so much stronger than my right I just have a hard time. So it works out fine only have a one lens.

But I have seen you know someone who bought a Nikon stereo microscope well worth the money unfortunately it's a heck of a lot of money. At work they have a clone of probably the Nikon same pretty white color it's a microscope that's what they share in common but it just doesn't quite have I can't quite remember. I don't think it has the same working depth or he just doesn't quite have the quality but it cost a fraction of the cost and it does its job.

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 months later...

Another thought on this microscope.   I have a nice stereo scope, so when I need close up work, it works quite nicely.  It is mounted on a large boom and takes up a lot of space, so it is a little cumbersome for lathe work.

This morning I had the idea to use the Bulova for turning.  I did a test and turned a 100um pivot using pivot steel.  It might work.  I wish I had a little more working distance, however.

2022-04-18 07_35_21-20220418_072159.jpg ‎- Photos.png

Edited by LittleWatchShop
100um not 10um
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • So I found what I believe is the setting lever screw! Am I right in thinking the screw next to the click is the correct one for the setting lever? However if it is, it doesn't fit in the hole which I believe is for it! I can get the lever to sit nicely on the stem and line up with a hole, but the screw only goes as far as the shoulder and stops. It's as though the hole is too small! The dial side has been disassembled by the way, the other wheels are in my tray
    • When faced with say a pocket watch bridge which is cracked, silver soldering to repair is often the only option (hopefully someone wasn't there before hand with soft solder). I can generally do this succesfully and tidily with a small torch and miniscule pieces of silver solder, but on parts which were mercury amalgam gilded the heat can have have a deleterious effect on the finish.   I keep wondering if there's a good way to refinish these - and despite having the needful items would rather avoid using the mercury process.   In the past for electronic work I've gold plated PCBs but this involved gold potassium cyanide solution, which also doesn't realy belong at home. I've read that there are now safer alternatives but couldn't find more detail (and importantly how similar are the results to amalgam gilding, since I wouldn't want to refinish the whole watch). Pointers would be very welcome (and yes, I know solutions containing gold won't be cheap!) Alan
    • The first one is an Unruh max stake for pushing out staffs
    • Ok so with the great answers for my previous question may I ask what these two attachments are used for. The one with the red knob is I assume used for hand setting the seconds hand? Jon      
    • According to Cousins site I need to look at document G22 as I think I need an ATGB at 304 but I cant find this size in G22 doc. The last thing I want to do is order the wrong one😳  Unless I cant see the wood for the trees 😆 I could be looking at the wrong style, I assume its classed as Round plastic Armed  https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/wide-ring-gold-atgb
×
×
  • Create New...