What dark magic is this? shellac outline on jewel of AS 1701 pallet cock
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By Terrinecold · Posted
Well I can't always report good progress. I just spent an hour trying to set the barrel bridge. That is one bridge which goes over: The barrel The driving gear for ratchet wheel Reduction wheel sweep second pinion (which is on a spring) Third wheel and pinion fourth wheel and pinion escape wheel I still haven't managed to do it. In particular, most wheels I can jiggle a bit to make their pinion go into the jewels but the sweep second pinion and the fourth wheel are not accessible once the bridge is in place and everything else is good. Does anybody have suggestion? I have already reassembled a Miyota clone but it was also a bit bigger than this movement which is a pretty small one -
By ScrewDropper · Posted
Rotary usually have either ETA or AS movements in them. I work on them a lot. Vintage Rotary are under appreciated watches, usually with a nice movement. You can pick them up dirt cheap, spares are easy to find and they're usually really nice to work on. -
If the coils of the hairspring are equidistance from each other and the end-curve is perfectly formed, so the regulator pins (curbpin and boot) don't push or pull the hairspring regardless of where the index is at the extreme of '+' or '-' and the balance is poised (consistent + or - timing in vertical positions) then it may be the gap between the regulator pins. These slides may help explain which way to open or close them. This is why an EtaChron system works so well, as you can set where you want the hairspring to exactly be and set perfectly distanced regulator pins every time! -
By ScrewDropper · Posted
I am going with a front loader but it won't have a split stem. The stem tube will be open at the front and th movement and stem will just lift out. I changed the battery on one of these recently. -
By ScrewDropper · Posted
As a general point, as you are learning, I would spend some time practicing on shock springs. As a general rule, Incabloc are probably the easiest to deal with as they are anchored and the main risk is removing and replacing the jewel and setting (a jewel picker upper, (a pen like device with gel on the end) or a bit of Rodeo can help here). Springs that are removed entirely, like the one above or the notorious Seiko Diashock are a challenge. What worked for me when I was learning (having pinged a few springs into orbit) was to buy a gash movement, one of those nasty frankenwatch Seiko's are ideal (try and find a 21 jewel as they have diashocks on the bridge too). Then don't try and fix it (you'll go insane) just practice removing and replacing the springs and jewels from the balance and the bridge. Keep going until you are comfortable. I have made a couple of probes with a sewing needle glued into a drilled length of peg wood, which work really well. as do no5 tweezers. I usually use either the jewel picker upper thingy to transfer the spring to the movement, tipping it off the end with the probe onto the setting and then, with the probe towards the inside of the spring (to stop if flying away, as suggested by others, rotating it with the tweezers. Once you have one tab in, gently apply light pressure to either side and twist. If the tab not other side is sitting too high for the slot, hold the other side down with a probe and gently depress it with the tweezers / other probe and then gently rotate. It take practice. Just be gentle, they require no force to move. If you are tensing up or shaking, stop take a break and come back to it. Keep practicing and it will become easier, trust me. We've all been there 🙂
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