Jump to content

A pocket watch mainspring so big that I think it's actually a clock mainspring


GregG

Recommended Posts

Hello all,

I wasn't sure if this belongs in the watch section or the clock section, but here goes.  I am having some trouble finding a suitable replacement mainspring for this pocket watch.  It's a very large New Haven watch with a very large mainspring.  The mainspring is so large that I think it's actually a clock mainspring.  The dimensions are 6.57mm H x 0.28mm T x 710mm L (est.) x 22.8mm barrel ID.

Watch mainsprings look like they top out at the upper 4mm's in terms of height.  Above that, and you've entered the realm of clock mainsprings.  I am able to find clock springs of similar height and thickness, but they're either way too short, or they are meant to fit into much larger barrels.

Can someone point me in the right direction for a replacement?  Also, I do not have a clock mainspring winder, so the replacement would preferably be of a smaller ID so I could pop it right into the barrel from the holder.

Edited by GregG
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sounds like the watch could be a size 18s or maybe even 20s.  I know a couple places that might have the springs, but I should ask if you can post pictures please.  And the serial number too (you can use a "*" for the last digit if you don't want to post the exact number.  I will still be able to look it up and hopefully find parts numbers too.  That'll hopefully tell us exactly what we ought to look for.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

There was no serial number I could find on the movement, unless it's hidden somewhere.

Also, now that I'm looking at it again, it doesn't look like a watch, so much as a scaled down clock stuffed into a large pocket watch case.

IMG_20211023_182421.jpg

IMG_20211026_072138.jpg

IMG_20211026_072252.jpg

IMG_20211026_072258.jpg

  • Confused 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

12 hours ago, oldhippy said:

That's not what I expected. Looks like one of those 2 inch movements that you find in some clocks. Have measured across the movement for it's size?  

I didn't have a ruler handy, so I had to eyeball it.  It's about 1.5 to 1.75 inches across.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks hippy.

I've searched several watch part sites and haven't found quite the match I need. 

The first site I found https://www.clockworks.com/clock-parts/clock-movement-hole-end-mainsprings.html

  1. 6.4mm x 0.28mm x 400mm x MB
  2. 6.4mm x 0.28mm x 990mm x 26mm

The second site I found https://perrinwatchparts.com/collections/clock-barrels-and-clock-mainsprings/products/hole-end-clock-mainsprings-4to13mm

  1. 6.4mm x 0.25mm x 600mm
  2. 6.4mm x 0.28mm x 390mm
  3. 6.4mm x 0.28mm x 840mm
  4. 6.4mm x 0.28mm x 975mm
  5. 6.5mm x 0.25mm x 325mm

And on Cousins I found https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/english-dial-fusee-french-german

  1. 5.9mm x 0.24mm x 650mm x 21mm
  2. 6.5mm x 0.29mm x 930mm x 25mm

On site number one, the choices are either way too long or way too short.  The barrel sizes are also either too big, or MB (music box), and I'm not sure what that means.  The second site is promising, choice number one and three look nearly compatible but the barrel diameters aren't listed.  And on Cousins, choice number one looks good, but is 5.9mm too much of a difference from the measured 6.5mm?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It's built like the little "travel alarm" clocks, except without the alarm part!  And built into a pocket-watch-facsimile of a case, so you could carry it accordingly.  I've heard about those, but this is the first set of pics I've seen of one of them.  OH is bound to know more about these than I do.  Given it's nature, I think I would look for a small clock spring too.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

34 minutes ago, KarlvonKoln said:

Are the two holes in the bottom for feet?  It looks like something would screw into there.

I see what you're saying, but I don't think so.  If you look on the movement, there are pegs that lay across those holes, I think it's for holding the movement firmly.

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, GregG said:

  If you look on the movement, there are pegs that lay across those holes, I think it's for holding the movement firmly.

I see them now!  So it's held in its case in three places: the pendent is a mounting screw, and there are the two screws at the bottom.  So that means the large hole in the inner cover was for some kind of winding key, and the central hole would be for the setting knob?  Yeah, this really is built like a carefully disguised travel-clock.  Interesting novelty, that.

Edited by KarlvonKoln
Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Personally I would salvage the missing screws from some donor movement.  I also bought a random selection of screws "Assortment of Stainless Steel Watch Screws" for next to nothing.  As for using an Alum solution - I had great success with that removing a rusted stem from a stainless steel crown.  The best piece of advice I read on doing that was to keep the solution warm so that the reaction didn't take weeks!  I did it in a couple of hours with the solution in jam jar and the jam jar in a saucepan full of water which I left on an induction hob maintaining about 60C in the Alum solution.
    • I decided that it was time to tackle the piece that I'd set aside as my first project. The subject in question is a Gruen Veri-Thin pocket watch.  It winds and "runs".  On the time grapher, it has reasonable amplitude (240 or so depending on the position), but was loosing close to a minute a day.  The stem also has the annoying tendency to just come out when pulled, which makes it super hard to set the thing.  As with many things this one started sideways and just got more so.  I was able to overcome the mangled "tab" on the back case cover (a well placed, very sharp knife enabled me to get in when I couldn't get a purchase on the mangled tab with a case knife.)   I was then sort of shocked to find that one side of the dial was held down with some sort off tape or adhesive material as someone had broken the dial foot screw on that side and left the broken screw in the mail plate. The loose stem does in fact seem to have been a poorly tightened setting lever screw, but I'm afraid there may still be gremlins in the keyless works.  While I was able to get the stem to stay in by putting everything in the right place and tightening the setting lever screw (before I took it all apart for cleaning and inspection), it just didn't seem to all sit right. The final gremlin showed up when I was taking off the lower cap stones for the balance and escape wheel (yes the Gruen 380 seems to have a cape jewel on the escape wheel).  The balance stone came off fine (but that in fact is the smallest screw I've ever seen.  When I turned the movement around to get the one off the escape wheel setting, I found that the screw head had been mostly sheared off.  After some reading and looking at what I had, I decided to try and tease what was left of the screw out of the hole by nudging what was left with the corner of my smallest screwdriver.  After 20 minutes or so, I was able to get the remains of that screw out. The picture I'm including of the disassembled movement was taken before I got the second cap stone off, so in the picture, it's still attached to the main plate (for those looking carefully, you'll only see the one cap setting in the pic.) Now I'm left with: A broken dial screw inside the main plate that needs to come out A broken cap stone retention screw that I have in my parts tray, but that is strictly useless and needs to be replaced. The need to get another dial foot screw I'm contemplating solving the first problem by soaking the main plate in an alum solution.  I think the main plate is brass and shouldn't be affected, but I have not been able to confirm.  This seems like the easiest option as I can't really access both sides of the screw to use the pricey Bergeon tool (which I don't fancy buying unless I have to.) I have located a couple of donor movements and have questions out about whether or not the include the dial foot screw and prompting for pictures of the dial side so  evaluate the cap stone settings.  I've also found that a supplier in this country does have the cap stone settings, but isn't overly clear about whether the screws are included. Are these the types of things that one can scavenge out of assortments or is it best to just grab one of the donors assuming that they look like they have what I need?  
    • I visited this place last year just before they closed their counter service - amazing shop (filled from floor to ceiling!) and the guy that was working there was really knowledgeable and helpful!. Their website isn't as good as Cousins but I understand that if you fill out the contact form they have stuff that isn't on the site. https://gleave.london/mineral-flat-bottom-domed/
    • As always in this game the answer is “it depends “ because the first one worked out ok doesn’t mean all will. A case could be made in a way that it would not really matter much, sounds like your first example. However a case could also be made so that only a tension armoured crystal could be used. Generally you replace like for like to maintain the integrity of the watch.   Tom
×
×
  • Create New...