Jump to content

3D printed RS mainspring winder project for hobbyists

Zero

By Zero
in Mainspring and Winding Tools

 Share

Recommended Posts

Zedster Member

Zedster

Posted
Posted
On 2/14/2024 at 10:14 PM, AndyShap said:

You are referring to the winder base, which can be printed to fit 1.5mm, 2.0mm, 2.5mm or 3.0mm arbors.  The large center hole is to insert the arbor.  The four surrounding holes are to insert the arbor hook (staple). All four holes are the same depth. Each hole is a slightly different distance away from the arbor.  You would choose which hole based on best fit for your mainspring.

Hi, Andy

Thanks for your reply. My main confusion was that one of the four holes is a lot bigger than the other three and beaks through to the arbor hole. I can see from various videos they use one of the smaller hole to align the staple pin so I was a little confused about what the big hole was for as its appearance is a lot different to the other three holes

Regards

Z

Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • Replies 126
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Zero
Zero

Hi guys, I have started a project in Github to generate all the possible types of mainspring winder sizes from a single base design using a Python script. https://github.com/vishnu350/rs-mainsp

Zero
Zero

Based on feedback from @AndyShap, I have included the setter-bowl as part of the latest v0.8 release for the rs winder project, along with various other fixes based on user feedback: https://github.co

Yxoc
Yxoc

I have been practicing with the 3d printed mainspring winder and I have settled on a process that is giving me very good, repeatable results. What follows is a picture story board of my process that I

Posted Images

markr Super WRT Addict

markr

Posted
Posted
On 2/14/2024 at 5:59 PM, rossjackson01 said:

Just so not fair. No access to a 3D printer. Back to hand installing for mainsprings.

Maybe someone with a 3d printer can use it to print you a 3d printer.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Khan
      Stem broken - can it be rescued?

      By Khan · Posted

      Hi I got a Jaeger LeCoultre K911 movement, where one of the stems was broken. Part no. Should be 401.  Im based in Europe and tried Cousins but its discontinued there and cant find it on Google. Is there a way out to join the ends? Or an alternative movement to source parts from? 
    • Bonefixer
      AS2063 - hand setting

      By Bonefixer · Posted

      The part was how it fell out of the movement - the train wheel bridge wasn’t screwed in.    I’ll probably dismantle the part, if I can, to work it out.    The train of wheels ran fine - it was only once the keyless works were installed I noticed the problem. 
    • mthomas828
      Balance staff sourcing?

      By mthomas828 · Posted

      Hello, I am about 5 months into watchmaking and I love it!   The attention to precise detail is what really attracts me to it. (and the tools!) I am working on a 16 jewel 43mm pocket watch movement.   There are no markings besides a serial number (122248) .  The balance staff needs replacement. The roller side pivot broke off.  I successfully removed the hairspring using Bergeon 5430's.  I successfully removed the roller using Bergeon 2810.   Did i mention I love the tools?! I removed the staff from the balance wheel using a vintage K&D staff removal tool  with my Bergeon 15285 (that's the one that comes with a micrometer adjustment so it can be used as a jewel press as well as a traditional staking tool...it's sooooo cool...sorry..  can you tell i love the tools?) No more digressing..  I measured the damaged staff in all the relevant areas but I have to estimate on some because one of the pivots is missing. A = Full length  A= 4.80mm  (that's without the one pivot...if you assume that the missing pivot is the same length as the other pivot (I'm sure it's not)  then A = 5.12 mm...(can I assume 5.00mm here?) F=  Hair spring collet seat  F=  .89mm   (safe to assume .90 here? .. I am sure that my measurement's would at least contain  .01 mm error ?) G = balance wheel seat  G = 1.23 mm  (1.20mm?) H  =  roller staff  H =  .59mm  (.60 mm?) B  = bottom of the wheel to roller pivot   B  = 2.97mm  (3.00 mm?)     here I am estimating  again because this pivot is missing. So my friends, and I thank you profusely,  can you point me in the right direction as to how to proceed? Do i buy individual staffs?  or an assortment?   Since I don't know exactly the name of the manufacturer, will that be a fatal hindrance?   Tbh, I'm not even sure what country of origin this movement is. Thank you!    
    • Neverenoughwatches
      Epilame / Fixodrop

      By Neverenoughwatches · Posted

      Thats why i asked that question earlier, what happens if lubrication is placed directly on top of epilame ?  As opposed to walled within its non epilamed area . I'm not saying its right, i have no idea , just asking questions. 
    • JohnR725
      Epilame / Fixodrop

      By JohnR725 · Posted

      thinking of where epilam should be removed did you know there was a patent that covers this? At least for the escapement I'm attaching it. GB1057607A-1 epilame.pdf
×
×
  • Create New...