Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I also need an handle for a (bigger) drawbar. Have considered printing one, but I haven't learned CAD yet, and the material and finishing would be limited to what I have.

AliX has various sizes available in hard black plastic, not expensive and will spare my time for other bigger projects.

In my opinion making things is great but when there is a more expeditious way that is the better one. 

Posted

This may not look like an improvement, but it is.  My dimensions were a little off, so this next iteration has some adjustments.

I still have gaps, but this is not due to 3D printer limitations, it is my carving away at the drawbar material in order to get a good geometry to fit to.  A hit and miss operation.

Functionally, this one is pretty close.  As I observe the handle while it is spinning, the outer perimeter appears pretty uniform.

So, the structure is good.  I am pondering some form of black putty or something to fill in the gaps.

2021-04-15 07_46_58-Photos.png

Posted
37 minutes ago, jnash said:

see there was me thinking you are replacing the whole thing

Not a bad idea really.  If I removed all of the handle, it would be easy to make a very nice 3D print replacement.  I guess, it is seems too drastic to do that...dunno...for now it is functionally very good, so I will put it aside so that I can go kill all of the other rats...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I tried pushing to dome the washer in and had no success, but stuffing it full of o-ring gaskets worked much better than I expected. It takes some pressure but not as much as you might imagine, but it does take patience ... and a couple of dozen small gaskets. I used the pendant tube of a watch case to stuff the gaskets in as I didn't have a way to machine a tool to suit.
    • I can't answer your question, sorry, but you probably don't what to transfer the spring to a new wheel. Springs and wheels are paired ("vibrated" together) to get the right timing and transferring the spring to a new wheel is quite likely to see you minutes per day out with no way to correct it. Some may tell you to replace the balance staff, but if you're a beginner you're probably better off sourcing a replacement "balance complete" if you can: staff, roller, wheel and spring already assembled as a unit.
    • I'm sure it's the ancien. My measurements: A = 342. The slight bend in the pivot would make much less than a thousandth of a mm difference to this so I don't think 348 is plausible unless there has been significant wear on the pivots. B is hard to measure without first removing the balance wheel. I measured to the other side of the balance wheel as best I could (263) then subtracted the thickness of the wheel (69) to get 194. This could easily be three or four hundredths out, so 195 looks right. (196 could also be right.) J couldn't be measured. I did my best to measure where the balance wheel has been riveted on and got about 95, so 85 before riveting is plausible. (60 is not.) G again couldn't be measured without first removing the roller. I get 37 where the staff emerges from the roller so 41 at the other end of the taper seems plausible. (43 is also plausible to me.) K = 60. (Definitely larger than 55.)   I've never replaced a balance staff; it'll be a new adventure for me. I'll have to read up on how to maximise my chance of removing the old one without damaging the balance wheel without having access to a lathe. I also need to explore how to remove the roller without damaging it. I won't actually place an order until I've gone through the rest of the movement. With the number of issues I've already found, I'll be amazed if I don't have more surprises in store. There are some watch part suppliers in Australia but nothing like Cousins or Otto Frei or Jules Borel. AllTimeCo is fine for basic parts for modern watches: batteries, bands, some crowns, stems, seals, movements, some tools, etc., but not really anything for vintage watches. Australian Jewellers Supplies is similar. Cousins charges about £9 for shipping to Australia which is about AU$19 and not too bad (considering Australian parcel post is $11) but I still want to minimise the number of times I'm paying it. I need to explore other options closer to home. There may be something in Singapore or China that would have what I want and ship it faster/more economically.  
    • Hi, I just finished the service of a Rolex 3135. Amplitude is great, 295 degrees horizontal after 2 hours and 280 after 12 hours. Vertical positions are 25 degrees down on those. I am however seeing a rate variation with temperature. I have 0 SPD on wrist, say 38 degrees and +7 SPD at 18 degrees room temperature. That equates to +0.35 SPD which is within spec I believe (+-0.5 SPD/ Deg C max). It just seems more than I would expect from such a high quality movement. To put that in context, I see similar rate variation with temperature for a Seiko 7S26. Just wondering what you guys see. Thanks, Steve.
    • For years I've done it the el-cheapo way (read: cleaning by hand). Bought a 2nd Elma S15(H) ultra-sonic, including proper cleaning-fluids (Elma WF Pro (cleaning) & Elma Suprol Pro (rinse)) and entered a complete different cleaning world. These cleaning fluids are none-water based and not that easy to obtain. Initially I bought these fluids in Germany "SKSONIC" (www.sksonic.de) but last year they stopped shipping international. Perhaps they resumed international shipping? You can always ask them. You could also ask @VWatchie, he lives "next-door". As for the fumes; I use the ultra-sonic in my garage, partly for the fumes, but more for our dog ...... he goes "bananas" when I switch on the ultra-sonic. Oh, next on your list (if you consider watch-repair as a long-time hobby), a Microscope (up to 50x is enough).  Pegwood leaves, observed under the microscope that is, whole tree-trunks behind 🫣 Ultra-sonic, in combination with proper cleaning fluids, takes care of the cleaning.
×
×
  • Create New...