Jump to content

Hermle 400 day clock


HectorLooi

Recommended Posts

Ok, I think I got it now. I'll have to put in some sheltered spot to see if it will keep going. The glass dome was missing and I think some draft must have upset the oscillation. 

An anniversary clock is a great way to learn escapement theory. Everything moves so slowly that you can see every step. Drop, lock, full lock, power, unlock.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Unscrewing that won't make any difference to the going of the clock, those holes are not elongated. If you didn't have the movement covered then draft could have caused it to stop. Try and put the clock out of the way, away from everything.    

Link to comment
Share on other sites

20210323_193558.thumb.jpg.f36560de019b2ff8507ddebea5d8d942.jpg

The holes on this Hermle are definitely elongated. I don't understand why as the pallet has actual adjustable pallets. My Kundo anniversary clock had round holes.

But working on this clock has really deepened my understanding of escapements.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, oldhippy said:

I can't recall seeing that before. How stupid is that.  Whatever you do do not adjust the pallet faces. I don't suppose you marked the plate when you removed the first screw. 

Thanks. I'll remember that. I wasn't expecting an elongated hole. It was only when I was putting it back together that I saw it. ?

How would you mark the plate? Would you use a scriber?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 10 months later...

I've got one of these clocks and am having the exact same problem. You have some very good pictures and I see that your pallets span five scape wheel teeth. I cant get mine to span more than four for some reason. I'm told the long number is the movement number and mine is the same. Moving the bridge frame is the normal way to do the last final adjustment. More common on clocks with non-adjustable pallets.

I've made parts for and renovated a good many 400 day clocks and this one is on the point of having me beaten! I've checked everything and can't find the spot between fluttering and jamming. I used to think Koma Midgets were the worst....

Has yours got the proper top block on the suspension spring? ie with a semi-circular cut out? If you have "The Book"I think its 25b

Link to comment
Share on other sites

55 minutes ago, JSM said:

I've got one of these clocks and am having the exact same problem. You have some very good pictures and I see that your pallets span five scape wheel teeth. I cant get mine to span more than four for some reason. I'm told the long number is the movement number and mine is the same. Moving the bridge frame is the normal way to do the last final adjustment. More common on clocks with non-adjustable pallets.

I've made parts for and renovated a good many 400 day clocks and this one is on the point of having me beaten! I've checked everything and can't find the spot between fluttering and jamming. I used to think Koma Midgets were the worst....

Has yours got the proper top block on the suspension spring? ie with a semi-circular cut out? If you have "The Book"I think its 25b

In order to know how many teeth between the pallets you need to work out the teeth count to the pinions. Have you checked for wear on the escape wheel and wear on the pallets. Have you got the pallets in the right position. How much space between the pallet forks and pallet bar,  a tiny drop of oil between the two stops fluttering.  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 hours ago, JSM said:

I've got one of these clocks and am having the exact same problem. You have some very good pictures and I see that your pallets span five scape wheel teeth. I cant get mine to span more than four for some reason. I'm told the long number is the movement number and mine is the same. Moving the bridge frame is the normal way to do the last final adjustment. More common on clocks with non-adjustable pallets.

I've made parts for and renovated a good many 400 day clocks and this one is on the point of having me beaten! I've checked everything and can't find the spot between fluttering and jamming. I used to think Koma Midgets were the worst....

Has yours got the proper top block on the suspension spring? ie with a semi-circular cut out? If you have "The Book"I think its 25b

I can't recall. I've since sold off the clock so I can't check it.

But I think everything was original with this clock. I didn't change anything except the suspension wire and getting a new glass dome.

I did manage to get pretty good amplitude from this clock after playing around with the pallet depth and getting it in beat.

With your vast experience with 400 day clocks, I'm sure you'll figure it out.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • could start a new sub-brand: Bergeon-Pro Worked for Apple phones! Ah they already beat me to it:  
    • Hello, those RR pocket watches are nice watches, there are still parts around...
    • The hairspring looks to be in good condition from the photographs, it is natural that the balance will perform slightly differently in different orientations. Assuming there is no damage, the difference may be caused by the balance moving relative to the jewels, not the hairspring itself. So too much space between the jewels (endshake) and the difference will be greater, if one jewel is oiled and the other not, then again a lower amplitude in one position than the other....and so on. If the difference is reasonable (like your 13 seconds) the the best thing to do is to make one position slightly fast (+7 seconds, and the other position slow -7 seconds) then this averaging of the error will make for a more accurate watch in use. If the difference was much greater eg 100 seconds, then you would need to troubleshoot the problem. Additionally, you need to let the watch run-in for 24-48 hours after a service to allow the new oils to work their way in to all the jewels and pivots etc before you make a 'real' timegrapher test, otherwise you can get strange results. For example the oil in the top shock setting may be evenly spread, but not (yet) in the bottom setting = high difference.... after 24 hours this oil will probably have sorted itself out and the difference may be much better.
    • Oy! No bad words in our forum please.
    • I'm also rather impatient, but when you have your head down and are in the zone 4 hours feels like 10 minutes, my wife often jokes that I have watches and clocks all around me, but no concept of time once I 'get in the zone'
×
×
  • Create New...