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Posted

I am in the process of restoring a Landeron 50, and all the eccentrics are out of whack.

Some I've managed to adjust correctly by trial and error- the depthing between the driving wheel, coupling wheel and chronograph runner. But the others have got me going round in circles. It also seems to me that there is probably a correct order in which to adjust them.

 

So, my question is, does there exist either the original technical guide that explains how to adjust all the eccentrics, or a guide/tutorial written by anybody that explains it? (I have looked for both without success.)

And if not, can somebody please make one? (...ahem, Mark?)

 

 

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Posted
5 hours ago, Barnaby said:

I am in the process of restoring a Landeron 50, and all the eccentrics are out of whack.

I have an L51 that was pretty beat up in my box-o-watches.  So, to practice, I took it apart, cleaned, and back together.  The problem was that the hairspring was all bungled up.  Tried to straighten it but gave up.  Found an L248 balance and cock on Ebay and snagged the hairspring from it.  The L51 is now working fine, keeping good time, but the dial is a mess and I only have the minute hand...so there is work to be done.

After seeing your post, I wonder whey I did not have to make any adjustments.  Maybe I do!!

Posted

I've serviced others where you don't need to touch them but with this one I had to replace the barrel bridge and train bridge and replace the eccentrics so I was starting from scratch essentially.

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    • Daniel, I guess You actually asked if the accuracy of the watch was improved after jewels added. One would not expect such accuracy improvement. The watch accuracy depends on many things and most of them are related to the balance and escapement. Well, it depends what is considered to be a no jeweled watch. If this is pin pallet watch wit cone balance pivots, then, believe me, replacing balance staff with one with cylindrical pivots in jewels will only worsen the things. Cone shaped pivots in cup bearings actually work better than  cylindrical, the only problem is that they wear faster. And, it will be hard to impossible to replace the pallet pins with ruby pins... The watch accuracy depends maimly on the balance and escapement adjustments ad it is no related to the presence of jewels. Adding jewels to the train wheel bearings may only lead to some amplitude increasing, and it is not sure too.  
    • Thank you so much! I'll experiment a bit with the UV glue and chalk and maybe eventually try to fill the hole.  I'll report back!  
    • How did you know to shorten the bottom pivot and not the top? It sounds like something is rubbing when in the dial up position.
    • With apologies for taking advantage of your kindness in responding, would you be able to indicate what sort of additional info is needed & where on the watch I might find it? Do you have any suggestions as to what Cousins might mean by "a normal  bridle"? ( their website says they can't provide any technical information....)
    • Yeah, it looks exactly like that, but the balance staff pivots was long when fit into the jewels, so I took some  bits shorten it from the bottom pivot but  when  I made the movement run  on all position and all the other position works fine but not on dial up position.  and im not getting any reading from my timegrapher So what do you reckon the issue could be do I need to shorten the bottom pivot more and also a notice the balance rim is really close to the center wheel teeth  feel  it's catching the rim.
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