Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

Hi guys,

I just wanted to show my next project, a Seiko 6139-6005 chronograph. I think we can skip the discussion whether this is actually a Pogue or not ? 

IMG_1194.thumb.JPEG.7df24eae57135e8381e7c5f43a228fc2.JPEGIMG_1202.thumb.JPEG.6a9e88a6c216361fed6c755ef96d177b.JPEG

The case is a bit rough, so I want to try to refinish it a bit. My plan is to file it down from rough to fine grain first, then polish it and apply the circular brushing in the end. I will orientate on the video "My Retro Watches" made about the refinishing of this case. At first I thought about replacing the bezel, but in person it looks a lot better than in the pictures. As it didn't came with a bracelet I need to think about that too. I think I will go for an uncle seiko bracelet, since I find the original bracelets a bit expensive for what they are. 

 

IMG_1153.thumb.JPEG.3b180ec3b1aa29a05d65349cedd952d0.JPEG

The dial is in really nice condition, the lume has slightly darkened at the edges and match with the hands. I hope I will find the first two numbers of the serial number on it's backside, so I have the proof that it wasn't replaced. 

IMG_1198.thumb.JPEG.d7d459aa42e57ff9678c6da8fa72c355.JPEGIMG_1199.thumb.JPEG.5cb388f32a08f10a2bbbb3f4506f0866.JPEG

The movement looks quite clean and isn't running to bad, so that's already a good sign. 

69336280_IMG_1198(2)_LI.jpg.e6b7626f3c2086805554cfc98290c664.jpg

Unfortunately the (hammer?) spring looks to be from a Seiko 6139A, while this is a Seiko 6139B, so I will have to source the correct one. The chronograph is actually working fine though. 

IMG_1201.thumb.JPEG.2c8c82e6a08a2d2e3b33f624dc3ba5e8.JPEGIMG_1200.thumb.JPEG.cd6c5f97879ba62a455992f2ee90dc72.JPEG

The last thing I have to deal with is the crown. It has the correct stem with the spring and the gear that turns the inner bezel, but I think it's no the correct one for this case, it should be a bit more flat. As a result you can advance the date, but not the day of the week, because you can't press it in deep enough. 

 

It's the first time I will service this movement, so if there is anything special I should know about the job, or if you have some of the parts I need, then please let me know ?  

I already have the service manual, so no need for you to upload it ? 

Edited by handwound
  • Like 1
Posted

I have a 6139-6002 with 6139B movement with the same case I think.  I attach a few pics showing the crown, the spring, and the refurbished case and original bracelet which may help.  I did the circular finish to the case top by polishing the case then masking off the bezel  and polished areas. I then used a large rubber washer on a shaped block (the surface is slightly domed) then glued so wet and dry paper (can't remember grit size) to the washer/block.  I then used this by applying to surface and rotating the washer/block by hand.  I had to replace the plastic day finger (damaged), the intermediate date wheel (damaged) and the main spring (bridle was detached, 6139B not available so used 6139A which seems to work fine).  I also replaced crystal as broke it when trying to polish out scratches (dropped it on stone floor!!), could not find OEM so used sternkraus special equivalent.  Service of movement was straightforward (I have some pics if you get stuck) but special attention is needed when refitting the centre second/chrono hand as it fits very tightly on a square pin and the lower jewel needs to be supported.

 

6139 Intermediate Date Wheel.JPG

6139B Day Finger.JPG

Seiko 6139B.JPG

Strap and Clasp - After Repolish.JPG

Watch Head 1 (after Refinish and New Crystal.JPG

Watch Movement 4 - after Service and Rerpair.JPG

  • Thanks 1
Posted

Thanks for sharing your experience @canthus ?

for the brushing „my retro watches“ used a grid 360 polishing fleece, so that’s what I will try. I will remove the bezel and the crystal for working on the case, I hope it doesn’t crack... 

I usually take pictures while disassembly when I work on a new movement, so getting it back together shouldn’t be a problem. I remember the need of support while fitting the seconds hand from my Omega 565, can you give advice on how to do it best for this one?

you have a really nice example by the way, the condition is great if dial and bezel are original, congrats ?

Posted

Glad to be of assistance.  The original watch was given to me by a friend who bought it new, so dial/bezel are indeed original, as is the rest apart from the new parts described.

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

So on Sunday I disassembled the movement. 

With the dial removed you can see the day and the date disc.

IMG_1247.thumb.JPEG.b2af7a0e063340fa3b9c2c54587ab853.JPEG

When you remove the day disc you will find a plate that covers most of the calendar mechanism. 

IMG_1248.thumb.JPEG.4dca726a2b1ce59ab6d91d997584b801.JPEG

 

IMG_1250.thumb.JPEG.94936c637e6e6051676fc09ab7276c3a.JPEG

 

Be careful when you remove the big spring for the date quickset (long spring at 12 o' clock). It is under a lot of tension, so unhook it before you unscrew it. 

IMG_1255.thumb.JPEG.abfd5da537e357a75e4701ac2afa1e32.JPEG

 

With the chronograph bridge removed you will find all the parts that belong to the chronograph mechanism. My tip: unhook both springs for the chronograph before you remove the plate, these can fly off very easy. Also be very gentle when removing the minute recording wheel, it has a long pivot that can break off quickly. 

IMG_1256.thumb.JPEG.8abcec49b65a612bd8738cc081c27d7b.JPEG

IMG_1257.thumb.JPEG.095ce2192036d74f9d16abfc86e68d3a.JPEG

 

Once you removed all parts for the chrono mechanism it's basically just like any other watch, so nothing special, apart from the chronograph center wheel. 

IMG_1265.thumb.jpeg.6b7cc5d850df42de08dc2ede05a6a047.jpeg

 

So finally disassembled, with all parts neatly organized in groups, so I will know what belongs together ? 

E0544870-FC62-4BC2-8CD2-112CF5A47994.thumb.jpg.c2d1bd44e56f2d03eb47fd7d5c1fcef5.jpg

 

I cleaned all the parts in an ultrasonic cleaner, after that I rinsed them in destilled water and isopropanol. I've let the balance assembly and the pallet fork sit in some lighter fluid to get them absolutly spotless. After they were dry I could proceed with the assembly and lubrication. 

IMG_1279.thumb.JPEG.a981d30a84fb08356c3561864f4bec95.JPEG

 

Both the disassembly and the assembly went quite smooth, no parts flying off, the chrono and date mechanism working flawlessly, I was really happy about that ? 

IMG_1283.thumb.JPEG.8c5eaca48719faacca843b1dc1a555e4.JPEG

 

On the timegrapher I get decent results, with an amplitude of about 250 - 260°. As much as I know about this movement I think this is quite good, please correct me if I'm wrong ?Timing needs some adjustment though, but that's no big deal. 

IMG_1294.thumb.JPEG.e262e658afdb7aca572cf8f45687b2f2.JPEG

 

So in the end I was really happy with the results. This was the first chronograph I've ever serviced and I'm surprised that I didn't had any problems. I hope you enjoyed this short report ? 

Edited by handwound
Posted

Hi handwound

Good to hear of your success.  Did you see the post re 'Seiko 6139B centre second alignment', some useful info in it. 

Your links don't seem to work, just get a black page with a very small image at the centre.  I would very much like to see your pics.

  • Like 1
Posted

Strange, I‘ve tried on different devices and for me the pictures are displayed as normal?

I have seen the post, but after I finished the service. Unfortunately I don‘t have such a movement holder, but for me it worked without it ? 

next step is to refinish the case, I already ordered an uncle Seiko bracelet today. I chose the tapered instead of the straight one, as it seems to be the correct shape for the year the watch was made in.

I still would like to obtain the correct hammer spring, but as it is working fine without it it doesn’t have priority at the moment.

And finally there is still the issue with the crown, so I‘ll have to deal with that too. But also something that can wait, as I can still use the watch with the current one

So the majority of the work is done, but there’s still a bit left to do ? 

Posted (edited)

Yesterday I started to work on the case. First some pictures from before:318445F6-706B-4472-8E61-3818629AF243.thumb.png.53bc7266dc2f04e8b97888e63dc4ec32.png69EB2DA4-FEA7-403F-B0D8-88E295F1BBE4.thumb.png.67d23b52c38d8e6fbfbc2c4798757f5b.png76CA5251-FA56-480F-91A8-62626721529B.thumb.png.cd3037ca82f87216b6299afca2c51ce1.png

I started with a grid 100 file and that got out most of the deep scratches and dents. I used some water while filing so the removed metal doesn’t settle into the files too much. 

B93A1A90-C826-4E03-95B2-232658820241.thumb.jpeg.4a8756d1e03d2986a6b18e9eca0c2f59.jpeg


after that I moved all the way up to grid 12000 and this is how the case looks now:

B060064E-252E-4B77-B517-E7C6DD68E61A.thumb.jpeg.f7ce43b051d2c39bf17b34055f0e20fd.jpeg898D78ED-952A-4793-8396-DC99E34316D0.thumb.jpeg.b82c9a034e0a39682dfb3b6a8715dc9e.jpeg
049A13FD-617A-4E7B-9777-03EDE27B3201.thumb.jpeg.739e709c30642af35585fb6411edf8af.jpeg
 

On the top surface I didn’t went up to 12000, because it will be brushed in the end anyway.

I think this already is a remarkable improvement. Getting to this point already took me hours.

next step will be to polish the sides with a wheel and apply the brushing to the top.

Edited by handwound
  • Like 1
Posted

Looking good.  If I remember correctly I finished to high polish with Dialux Grey and then Dialux Green.  Used several soft mops in a Dremel. Need to change mop regularly for good final polish to avoid 'carry over' residues into next stage.

  • Thanks 1
  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

So here is the finished result, I‘m really happy how it came out:

78A722F6-91BE-4423-AB35-E6B354FFC2A6.thumb.jpeg.72f2bc94078e9cc67f1d4e0e1181bf0d.jpegF18C61AE-412E-44E4-8562-5375E901C1BF.thumb.jpeg.54b111af1cc0fb6c2bd9195e59364fd7.jpeg37913BD7-FF80-4995-9D50-8871D7DAD369.thumb.jpeg.004a2fe8dc6af3eb3a4c670f30560f0c.jpegAD6A2BDF-166A-413B-A4F7-9395D4BBB85A.thumb.jpeg.3207288f04a178c1804e390ba1476847.jpeg

apart from the uncle Seiko bracelet it is completely original. At the moment it doesn’t have the original crown installed, but I already acquired an original one that just needs to be swapped in.

  • Like 4
Posted

@canthusI am, first service of a chronograph, first case restoration, quite a big step for me and I’m really happy that everything went so well. I expected to have some issues here and there, as it is normal when you try something new, but nothing?

Posted

Very nice work! I love that watch, and used to have one until it was stolen from my dorm room decades ago. Now you’ve got me thinking about it again, so I will have to start scouring eBay... ?

  • Thanks 1
  • 4 years later...
Posted
On 2/15/2021 at 12:19 PM, handwound said:

Hi guys,

I just wanted to show my next project, a Seiko 6139-6005 chronograph. I think we can skip the discussion whether this is actually a Pogue or not ? 

IMG_1194.thumb.JPEG.7df24eae57135e8381e7c5f43a228fc2.JPEGIMG_1202.thumb.JPEG.6a9e88a6c216361fed6c755ef96d177b.JPEG

The case is a bit rough, so I want to try to refinish it a bit. My plan is to file it down from rough to fine grain first, then polish it and apply the circular brushing in the end. I will orientate on the video "My Retro Watches" made about the refinishing of this case. At first I thought about replacing the bezel, but in person it looks a lot better than in the pictures. As it didn't came with a bracelet I need to think about that too. I think I will go for an uncle seiko bracelet, since I find the original bracelets a bit expensive for what they are. 

 

IMG_1153.thumb.JPEG.3b180ec3b1aa29a05d65349cedd952d0.JPEG

The dial is in really nice condition, the lume has slightly darkened at the edges and match with the hands. I hope I will find the first two numbers of the serial number on it's backside, so I have the proof that it wasn't replaced. 

IMG_1198.thumb.JPEG.d7d459aa42e57ff9678c6da8fa72c355.JPEGIMG_1199.thumb.JPEG.5cb388f32a08f10a2bbbb3f4506f0866.JPEG

The movement looks quite clean and isn't running to bad, so that's already a good sign. 

69336280_IMG_1198(2)_LI.jpg.e6b7626f3c2086805554cfc98290c664.jpg

Unfortunately the (hammer?) spring looks to be from a Seiko 6139A, while this is a Seiko 6139B, so I will have to source the correct one. The chronograph is actually working fine though. 

IMG_1201.thumb.JPEG.2c8c82e6a08a2d2e3b33f624dc3ba5e8.JPEGIMG_1200.thumb.JPEG.cd6c5f97879ba62a455992f2ee90dc72.JPEG

The last thing I have to deal with is the crown. It has the correct stem with the spring and the gear that turns the inner bezel, but I think it's no the correct one for this case, it should be a bit more flat. As a result you can advance the date, but not the day of the week, because you can't press it in deep enough. 

 

It's the first time I will service this movement, so if there is anything special I should know about the job, or if you have some of the parts I need, then please let me know ?  

I already have the service manual, so no need for you to upload it ? 

I too love this watch and had one when I was younger (early 80's) cant seem to find it among my stuff, but I hope to find it or find another one to make me happy.  If you do have the service manual for the Pogue 6139, could you share the PDF? many thanks

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • One of the problems we would have with a watchmaker's lathe is they were made over considerable span of time and manufacturing in the early days probably wasn't as good as it was today. Then if you look at the older catalogs typically it was just the head a few collets and something to rest graver on. So basically a basic lathe with over time things acquired but acquired things may or may not fit. Order today you purchase a used lathe that all kinds of nifty bits and pieces from a seller that acquired from? This would come back to that the basic watchmaker's lathe was used for basic watchmaking like turning things with a hand graver. Then limited indexing is fine because you can make things like stems Which don't need a whole bunch indexing   In the link above the word vector is mentioned and at the link below you can purchase one. Then of course you're going to need the motor that's a little bit extra for the price. https://www.hswalsh.com/product/lathe-vector-watchmakers-48-collets-hl11. That you're going to need some bonus parts like these found this picture online show the classic way of classic gear cutting.   The lathe could have a much bigger indexing disk but it has to be mounted close to the edge. Otherwise you're going to have a whole bunch of smaller disks like this which I think has notches rather than holes. Then as wonderful as these pictures look actually cutting a gear with this is not entirely fun. Look at all is belts all pulling on things and this is a watchmaker's lathe lightweight with lots of bits and pieces attached. It would make more sense if you actually cut a gear with something like this and it tends to be it's not really the best way to do it looks nice on paper but it is not the best way to go. Reality for cutting watch parts would be a bigger machine is much better. Than getting rid of all those belts and pulleys also good. Here is an interesting channel I would've liked of found a different video but this was nice and short if you look at his video as he uses a stepping motor and worm gear assembly for the indexing plate. In this particular video it gets attached to the lathe at about one minute and seven seconds and it looks like it's hiding looks like he has a Sherline. I do know he's had other stuff you'll just have to go through his videos to find it. Then at about one minute and 22 seconds you find out if you set up things appropriately. It's always bad we end up with half a tooth at the very end. Then you will note big lathe yes he's getting a big gear but you could easily cut a watch gear with the setup. And it definitely way more stable than a watchmaker's lathe.         Oh here's a company they been in business since 1911 http://www.fwderbyshireinc.com/  
    • Hello and welcome from Leeds, England. 
    • Hello, looking forward to participating on the forum here! I will mostly be listening and asking questions since I am an amateur hobbyist. I have most of the beginner hand tools and a Timegrapher. The extent of my tinkering consists of a successful Seiko 7S26 to NH36 movement swap inside an all original 1997 SKX007, along with a bunch of battery changes for friends and family. I have yet to tackle full disassembly and cleaning. Right now, I don't really have the budget or time to invest in a cleaning setup (even manual cleaning), but hopefully soon! I joined because I recently purchased a mechanical Timex Camper from 1994, and my searches for information regarding servicing and swapping out these Timex mechanical movements consistently led me to Watch Repair Talk. There is also a wealth of knowledge here about dial design, another area of interest for me. My other hobbies includes leather working (mostly small pieces, shoes eventually), crochet, sewing (would love to make clothing), design (especially type design), home espresso, cocktails, and tennis. I want to buy a film camera, but I don't need yet another expensive hobby involving last-century technology. Yes, I have ADHD.
    • HWGIKE#60 Accurist ETA 2390 Swiss lever, 21 jewels, full service A slim Accurist with a nice movement, eventless service, nice performance.  
    • Hello and welcome from Leeds, England  
×
×
  • Create New...