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Posted

I never could never get to throwing away my old and broken (automatic movement) and beloved Seiko 7009-3140. Had no problems doing this with my much costlier Eternamat

which 1) claimed to be a chronometer, which it wasn't, and 2) finally gave up the ghost, with a potential of costing a fortune for the repair.

After deciding to 'go quartz', I have purchased a Hattori VX43E movement, and wish to fit it into the remains of my Seiko .

Questions :

  1. Where do the 2 gaskets A and B in the photo go ? Which way up ?

  2. Is it necessar to vaseline the rim of the crystal before inserting, and also of the tiny gasket in the screw back ?

 

post-834-0-26524400-1427575690_thumb.jpg

Posted

Welcome to the forum. Both A & B look like movement holders. Don't use vaseline - use silicone grease, don't use it on crystals but use it sparingly on the caseback gasket.

Posted

As BL says, and also, it looks like the crystal needs a gasket (or it is still in the case, can't see well in the pic) to hold in the case. They are usually called "I" gaskets and are white in color, mostly. You will need to press it in. Some solutions use UV glue instead of the gasket. I'm not sure because it doesn't look quite right but this movement holder is the black ring "B". The other ring "A" might not even belong...

 

Do you still have the movement? It could be restored. Very similar to the 7S26 and parts may be as abundant but not too sure about this. Also there could be a possibility to substitute the old movement by a Hattori NH36 available in cousinsUK for about US$43. This upgrade adds manual winding and hacking.

 

Just a thought,

 

Cheers,

 

Bob

Posted (edited)

I have had problems re-using the crystal "I" gaskets because they get stretched out of shape or pinched when trying to re-insert a crystal . I have used a dab of silicone grease to help with the glass install but you really have to clean any silicone residue after . When the glass is firmly in place I will clean the case in my ultra-sonic cleaner and make sure it is completely dry before installing the movement . I will put it under a light bulb for a bit to insure this . The plastic "I" gaskets can be easily found on watch suppliers websites .

 

Gasket "A" looks like a dial ring...between the dial and calendar .

Gasket "B" looks like a moment spacer between the movement and case.

 

 

Seiko 7009A.pdf

Edited by ricardopalamino
Posted

Bobm12:

I'm still trying to find where I mislaid the old automatic movement.  Anyway, I have decided to 'go quartz'  after my nasty experiences with my Eternamat.   (Dare I say it:  my Chinese/Japanese SKMEI - costing about 20$ - is giving me good service.  Error of +30 seconds / YEAR.  My Eterna managed that in only a week, ). Any problems, and I replace the AL32 movement for under 10$).

 

Bob

Posted

Bob - the crystal on this model should be an armoured ring acrylic, Seiko part no. 310T40ANS0 and don't normally require a gasket.

Posted (edited)

Bob - the crystal on this model should be an armoured ring acrylic, Seiko part no. 310T40ANS0 and don't normally require a gasket.

 

310 is the diameter...  31.0 mm   ...  T is the tension ring...prod ser # ...A is acrylic .. N is ordinary finish .. S is Silver tension ring .. O is round shape

 

Seiko Crystal Codes.html

Edited by ricardopalamino
Posted
 

Gasket "A" looks like a dial ring...between the dial and calendar .

Gasket "B" looks like a moment spacer between the movement and case.

 

 

I would agree with that, additionally the caseback should have a gasket Seiko part no. FH2980B02

 

Bob- the second from last digit denotes the colour of the armoured ring, your number denotes black, my number silver. See ricardo's last post.

Posted

Blacklab:

Strange, my Part No. seems to end with ...B0, yours with ....S0 .  Both correct?

I know SO is Silver  round   .. BO may be shape code "B"    round    not sure of that .

Posted

A mine of information you are, all of you.

1.  The SO must be correct as my crystal has a silver finish (therefore I must have swopped SEIKO packaging from where it came.

2.  White gasket  'A' I have just found to be a Seiko Dial Ring, Part No. 884 283 .  I assume that the wider side of the ring fits onto the back of dial (?).  The dial has no dial feet so I will have to purchase these to attach movement to dial.

3.  Black gasket 'B' :  I will have to find out when I get the VX43E movement where this goes. Note: it has a cut-out, presumably for the stem.

 

Bob

Posted

Just thinking...are you going to use the original Seiko dial on the quartz movement ? How are you going to attach it ?  The white dial ring in your pics is a spacer between the dial and calendar day/date rings so they don't rub .

Posted

Just thinking...are you going to use the original Seiko dial on the quartz movement ? How are you going to attach it ?  The white dial ring in your pics is a spacer between the dial and calendar day/date rings so they don't rub .

 

Definitely, as I KNOW that this is a true Seiko.  As I mentioned, I will have to use dial feet:  Will push 2-3 of them through the 2-3 respective holes on the plastic rim of the new VX43E movement, dab super-glue on the broad-diameter base, and stick in position on the back of the dial.  If the hand axles don't protrude enough through the dial centre, I will have to re-think (possibly glue directly on back of dial - dangerous!).

 

Bob

Posted

A mine of information you are, all of you.

1.  The SO must be correct as my crystal has a silver finish (therefore I must have swopped SEIKO packaging from where it came.

2.  White gasket  'A' I have just found to be a Seiko Dial Ring, Part No. 884 283 .  I assume that the wider side of the ring fits onto the back of dial (?).  The dial has no dial feet so I will have to purchase these to attach movement to dial.

3.  Black gasket 'B' :  I will have to find out when I get the VX43E movement where this goes. Note: it has a cut-out, presumably for the stem.

 

Bob

The dial feet are welded on the back of the dial . The "B" movement ring is particular to your movement and case and most movement rings do have cut outs for the stem and push buttons if is a chronometer , You can purchase case rings to fit around your quartz movement and the case . These come in plastic and can be trimmed  by you . they are to keep the movement from floating around . If you have an old quartz watch you won't use anymore you can use the case ring from that one , maybe , and alter it to fit .  Kinda easy .

Posted (edited)

Definitely, as I KNOW that this is a true Seiko.  As I mentioned, I will have to use dial feet:  Will push 2-3 of them through the 2-3 respective holes on the plastic rim of the new VX43E movement, dab super-glue on the broad-diameter base, and stick in position on the back of the dial.  If the hand axles don't protrude enough through the dial centre, I will have to re-think (possibly glue directly on back of dial - dangerous!).

 

Bob

They sell tape for this...two sided . leave room for the calendar wheel ..  I doubt that you can use the feet on the dial to match the quartz movement  . 

Once you have the dial and the new movement centered , is the new stem going to work...long enough ?  What are you going to use as a crown ? Stem diameters are different .     Oh yeah , .... the original hands may not fit the pinions and "axel" gears .

Edited by ricardopalamino
Posted

I wouldn't dare to weld, which is why I will have to super-glue the feet.  Good idea about using old material from old watches.  Will come back to this thread when I get the VX43E in about 2 weeks time.

 

Just got your last mail....

Tape is also a good idea.  I hope the crown I have from the old mechanical movement will fit the new VX43E stem. Latter is usually over-long, and I will then cut it down to size.

Bob

Posted

Definitely, as I KNOW that this is a true Seiko.  As I mentioned, I will have to use dial feet:  Will push 2-3 of them through the 2-3 respective holes on the plastic rim of the new VX43E movement, dab super-glue on the broad-diameter base, and stick in position on the back of the dial.  If the hand axles don't protrude enough through the dial centre, I will have to re-think (possibly glue directly on back of dial - dangerous!).

 

Bob

Avoid superglue like the plague, it gives off gasses over time than can screw up watch internals, crystals, dials etc.

Posted

<<Super-glue gassing>>

 

The adhesive on the 2-sided sticky tape doesn't gas with time?  I would then sticky-tape the feet of the dial feet, to the dial.  Hope it holds.

Posted (edited)

I didn't want ti deter you but what Black just said is the truth , the whole truth , and nothing but the truth . Even the adhesive they make for some crystals is iffy for anything else .

Edited by ricardopalamino
Posted

<<Super-glue gassing>>

 

The adhesive on the 2-sided sticky tape doesn't gas with time?  I would then sticky-tape the feet of the dial feet, to the dial.  Hope it holds.

It won't .  Again , I don't want to deter you , so consider this a learning experience....we all go through it .  Just have some fun .

Posted (edited)

Thanks again.  Now have 'multi-options', and will await the movement. Have just purchased 100 x 3mm double-sided 'dots' on Ebay! Will contact you again when the movement arrives.

Bob

Edited by boblalux
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