Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi,

I'm currently working through Marks course, watching and re-watching the lessons up to Level 2 testing and regulation.

I've been following his guidance with a very similar ST36 movement (seconds at 9 varient).

The trouble I'm having is once fully assembled it won't run. I've disassembled again and reassembled for the second time, taking extra care to ensure the train all moves freely but yet still it will not run. 

When spinning the balance wheel "manually" it will rotate a couple of times, I can see the escape wheel rotating but it just comes to a stop after after a second or two . It's almost like there is no power coming through the train. 

As I do not have a mainspring winder I did not remove the mainspring, I did however remove the barrell, rachet wheel, crown wheel etc.

It was a "new" movement and ran well before, I've not lubricated or cleaned it yet as I was just practicing the breakdown and assembly elements.

Appreciate this is a bit of a stab in the dark for you all but would really appreciate any ideas of things to check/explore.

Thanks everyone.

Posted

 A check list of sort . 

Turn the barrel manually.

Trun center wheel , just grab a spoke in tweezers and turn.

If it didn,t run,

Loosen the cock screw a turn, do the same with fork bridge or check the endshake on balance staff, fork arbour and escape arbour.

If you take the fork out, balance should turn like ten complete oscillation at least. 

  • Thanks 1
Posted

The fork nudge test is routine, nudge the fork see if dose its jump.

Check if the impulse is still in beat,  stud carrier could have moved during the clean. 

 It may runs in either face down or face up positions and not the other . 

Good luck

Posted

Loosening the pallet cock screws did the trick! She's going along lovely now. Surprised as they weren't esp tight. 

It's all a learning curve, can't thank you enough for this. You've saved the second half of my hair being forcefully removed! 

  • Haha 1

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Yes! The terminal curve shape is key. I struggle not only with shape but also the angle it leaves the stud and the the height it leaves the stud. Since on the NH movements the spring is attached to the stud by friction fit and set by machine it can be off and hard to get right. I find moving the stud angle really affects the coil spacing.  I understand how to shape a terminal curve but when you install the spring and cock into the movement if gte spring is tilted up or down how do I get the spring flat?  The sling on the left is after shaping and I thought was good but it is way off and required more work. The one on the right is new.     
    • Welcome to the forum. We need to see photos but you're best searching eBay for prices.  
    • Yes you should just be able to unscrew it. What's the movement number and what part did you buy from Cousins?
    • Well I've never seen a Citizen movement like that before. Can you confirm the size of the movement.
    • Hi all, I'm currently working on my second Omega Seamaster Cosmic 2000. While the movement is now 'under control', I have a new issue that I have not yet run in to so far. The stem of the Omega is a split stem, with male and female part. The female stem part (attached to the crown side) is broken. So I need to replace it, while of course keeping the original crown. When searching on google/Youtube I see a lot of examples where the threaded stem can be removed with the aid of a pin vice, just unscrew. But this stem looks different, see attached photo's.  No thread and I can't tell if it's one part or multiple parts. I already have an Omega replacement female stem from Cousins, but that one is threaded and much thinner in diameter. Does anyone have experience with this? Can I just unscrew the stem from the crown, or does it work differently?  Hope somebody can help!
×
×
  • Create New...