Jump to content

1999 Lorus Fusion battery replacement.

oldskooler

By oldskooler
in Watch Repairs Help & Advice

 Share

Recommended Posts

oldskooler New Member

oldskooler

Posted
Posted
Hi.
 
I have an old 1999 Lorus Fusion watch that has been sat in my drawer for years.   I have finally bought a back remover and accessed the watch with the intention of replacing the battery.  After opening the back cover I am not sure how to proceed. 
 
Here are some photos.  Any tips?  When I try to move the battery the whole circuit board moves about.  It looks like the battery is screwed in. 
 
I would rather get some advice before I tamper with it any more.
 
Thanks
 
 

IMG_20190904_102823055_HDR.jpg

IMG_20190904_102832980_HDR.jpg

IMG_20190904_102842193_HDR.jpg

IMG_20190904_102852894_HDR.jpg

IMG_20190904_102921333_HDR.jpg

oldskooler New Member

oldskooler

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks guys I managed to do it and luckily I had a new battery in the draw.

A few questions:

- How tight should the back cover go on?

- Is it possible to take on of the links out as shown in the last two photos?  If so how?  The strap is a bit loose.

IMG_20190904_154821484_HDR.jpg

IMG_20190904_154843207.jpg

IMG_20190904_154852941.jpg

watchweasol Distinguished Member

watchweasol

Posted
Posted

Hi   If its a screw cover just nip it up firm dont over tighten it strains the threads.  As far as the bracelet goes they can be shortened by removing pieces (pic2) with a pair of pliers but they are a pain. Is the foldover clasp at its limit.

  • Like 1
oldskooler New Member

oldskooler

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks.

Yes it's a nice watch.  Very futuristic and retro at the same time.

I used to love my watches as a kid.  I got this a bit later when I was 19yo in 1998 or 1999.  I had a Casio DW402 Sky Walker when I was 13yo but alas that has been lost somewhere.

I had tons of late 80's and early 90's watches.  I so wish I had put them in a box somewhere and kept them.

oldskooler New Member

oldskooler

Posted
  • Author
Posted
2 hours ago, watchweasol said:

Hi   If its a screw cover just nip it up firm dont over tighten it strains the threads.  As far as the bracelet goes they can be shortened by removing pieces (pic2) with a pair of pliers but they are a pain. Is the foldover clasp at its limit.

Yes the clasp is at its limits.  Is it a real pain to take out a link?

watchweasol Distinguished Member

watchweasol

Posted
Posted

Hi  It can be done with needle nosed pliers to push out the clip. I have seen instructions somwhere on how to do it as its easier to see than explain, will have a look round the net.

  • Like 1
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • mbwatch
      Looking to try servicing an old movement

      By mbwatch · Posted

      I also still use my cheap first set of screwdrivers. I replaced the blades of the smallest (0.6mm) with higher quality once I had bent a few of the originals, but beyond that I have been fine. Note though that I do not work on any remotely valuable watches and most of what I deal with are in a truly terrible state, watches that have been banging around in kitchen drawers or toolboxes. So my concern for screw head slot integrity and scratches is usually not very high.  As for a loupe - you won't need anything powerful for an ST36 that is new. You don't need to do close inspection of balance pivots because they will not be worn out, and a 3x or 5x loupe is perfectly sufficient to see the oiling. I don't have any microscope or powerful magnification of any sort. I just use cheap loupes. But again this would be different if I were working with more valuable watches. And if I had equipment to burnish pivots, then I would get a microscope to check my work.
    • Neverenoughwatches
      Looking to try servicing an old movement

      By Neverenoughwatches · Posted

      I've recently switched over to using a x2.5 -x3 eyeglass for disassembly and some larger part assembly. It's interesting to see how accustomed and trained your eyes become to that way of working after using a microscope for years. And pick up and work at eyelevel when possible. Personally I would stick with and learn to use regular oilers efficiently. 
    • mbwatch
      Full plate watch, Suitable tool for adjusting & testing pallet stones?

      By mbwatch · Posted

      Thank you Mark.
    • tcabot
      Looking to try servicing an old movement

      By tcabot · Posted

      I remember playing with asbestos wire insultaion when I was a kid (remember the cool fluffy white stuff?) and I've been breathing fine dust particles in my woodworking shop for years, so I'm probably toast either way, but I don't want any of this radioactive dust anywhere near my kids.
    • Neverenoughwatches
      Looking to try servicing an old movement

      By Neverenoughwatches · Posted

      Its good to understand how and why demagnetisers work. These two pieces of text explain in basic terms how ferrous metal is affected by magnetism and why they can retain some of those properties.  The cheap demagnetiser is actually a magnetiser,but is used in a way that can remove the weak magnetic properties that a steel has gained through magnetic field exposure.  As steel is drawn further away from the device, the magnetic fields around it become progressively weaker and more -irregular- . This causes the disruption of the atomic and subatomic alignments within the steel that make it magnetised. So also moving the steel  through different orientations as its pulled away could actually improve that process. I still use my first cheap set of drivers, I notice very little difference in the way of feel between them and a set of preowned Bergeon I use, blade quality is more important. Tweezers have more variables, but again they don't have to be expensive to work well. My most used tweezers are my cheapest, but then I never use any pair that I haven't modified in some way. 
×
×
  • Create New...