Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hello everyone,

My name is John but you can call me Jack. I am new the group here and have been a hobbyist repairer for the past 2 + years. I mainly stick with mechanical watches but from time to time I will tinker with old quartz Seiko watches which I love. A current project that I have been trying to get down is a Seiko 4336 8129. This watch has been fighting me from the start. Well the movement was dead due to a broken pivot on the motor. So I sourced a replacement movement. Next Crystal was cracked so I removed the broken glass but can't figure out how to take the top bezel ring off. I have some pics. This poor watch has had a rough life. I was trying to bring it back!! Thank you for reading my tale of woe!!

 

seiko_4336-8129-1.jpg

seiko_4336-8129-2.jpg

seiko_4336-8129-3.jpg

Posted

It doesn’t come off. Those screws are just for show, just dummy screws. To obtain the correct glass you need the numbers on the back of the case. It is a press in glass, so you need the right type of glass press. Don’t forget to ask for crome/ white metal as it will have a ring inside, you don’t want a gold looking one.

Posted
1 hour ago, oldhippy said:

It doesn’t come off. Those screws are just for show, just dummy screws. To obtain the correct glass you need the numbers on the back of the case. It is a press in glass, so you need the right type of glass press. Don’t forget to ask for crome/ white metal as it will have a ring inside, you don’t want a gold looking one.

You're probably right about the case being one piece, but sometime with Seiko is hard to tell. They manufacture two piece cases even for cheap models. However, I do not see any need to remove the bezel, just give a reasonable polishing overall.

Regarding the crystal, we can't tell what it is as it's  The number on case back have been given above as 4336 8129, however  it could be a regular flat for which no original part is needed , just order by size, and consider a type I gasket too.

Posted

Well it turns out that this Seiko infact gets a press in Crystal. I was able to salvage the black flat gasket and order a couple of 1.5mm mineral crystal. Another learning moment for me. Much thanks to all who pointed me in the right direction.

 

Posted

Well here it is now. I repaired the movement new glass. This old watch has had a hard life and it shows. I still need to source  a battery door gasket, crystal gasket (reused the old one for now)  and correct silver chapter ring around day/date. I left the sweep a tad bent to remind me that all things are not perfect. 

IMG_20190822_164101.jpg

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

New Gaskets, glass and battery.  and I did put in the chapter ring around the day/date. I am very happy to bring this 78' back to life. 

IMG_20190830_165229.jpg

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
  • 4 years later...
Posted (edited)

Pardon my digging up this old thread, but I wanted everyone to know that the bezel is NOT part of the case on this watch. Such tight tolerances that it looks like it, though!

I installed a new 29.0x1.5mm flat sapphire crystal from Cousins UK. And it's better to remove the bezel before trying to press out the old crystal or else it will likely shatter.

20240716_193455.jpg

Edited by jarz21


  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Nice rescue. I like when a few with heavy patina are worn in rotation with nicer watches of a collection. Frankens, too so long as they aren’t passed off as something else. My experience with these Seikos is they tended to disintegrate on their own so finding correct parts to put an original together is near impossible…
    • Some answers from my view screwdrivers - if the bodies are ok for you maybe only look at changing the blades if possible, probably 100 and 140 first. loupes - 3-3.5 is what is normally recommended for disassembly and assembly, 10x for inspection  digital microscope - not great for working on movements as there is no depth perception, great for inspection and taking photos to post here 😀 automatic oilers - a bite marmite/vegemite at times, various opinions, some swear by them, some use them only for certain jewel settings others don’t care for them at all. They are not at all necessary, the usual alix etc. ones are fine and you don’t need to spend a fortune. They are very subjective though, you may end up making your own from a needle and peg wood because you like it just so.   can’t help with the Geiger counter, I’m one of the ones who don’t get freaked out about it. There is a legitimate concern, however as long as your not licking the dials/hands, or snorting the degraded old powder you are likely to be absolutely fine.   Tom
    • If you've got a stem for an ETA C01.211 then it should be correct. The other possibility is that the tip of the old stem has snapped off and is still in the movement. You can compare the piece your removed to confirm it's correct and not broken. Photos as always would help.
    • Thanks for the reply! How do I find out exactly what replacement stem i need please! I’ve just had at that pdf file you’re just sent & i can’t make head no tails of the item required mate! Sorry to be a pain! 
    • Game on! ST36 has arrived, but there's still a few questions and I'd be grateful for your help. I've got a set of cheapo Chinese screwdrivers that I bought years ago, so I'll use it for now for learning. Decent tweezers in the post. I also have a clip-on cheapo Chinese loupe 5x. Looking at the ST36, I am guessing that I need a 10x? I happen to have a (cheapo) digital microscope too - am I better off just learning to work under the microscope right from the start? For oiling, am I really better off getting automatic oilers, or should I learn with regular ones? Any of you folks use geiger counters? Are cheap ones (~£20-30 off ebay) good enough for checking watches, just in case they are hot? I intend to avoid lume unless it's tritium, but you never know what you're dealing with.
×
×
  • Create New...