Jump to content

New Newbie here!

HaydenE

By HaydenE
in Introduce Yourself Here

 Share

Recommended Posts

HaydenE Member

HaydenE

Posted
Posted

Hello! I stumbled across the youtube channel after looking up "how to make your own watch", I had an idea pop in my head of how I can combine my two passions of cars and watches into a unique watch. Now I'm currently trying to research on how I can make this idea a reality. After doing some digging around about watch making I've become obsessed with how watches are but together and designed! Also shoutout to the watch repair channel, whenever I have time to kill instead of watching TV I've been watching his videos. Informative, interesting, and also relaxing in a way. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites
HaydenE Member

HaydenE

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Also to add the first challenge I've had...

Currently I've been struggling to match parts that work with one another. My idea involves using blank watch disks and then using this method to make my own watch faces http://www.thetimebum.com/2017/01/how-to-modify-watch-moflake-returns.html . 

Currently I've only found these blank disks and so far I've been struggling to match up movements and cases that fit any of the 4 options the website gives you. https://www.esslinger.com/watch-dials-blank-brass-dial-discs/.

How do I know which movement and case will fit a certain size dial?

Thanks for any help! 

Link to comment
Share on other sites
DFeryance Member

DFeryance

Posted
Posted

I don't think you would have trouble getting any of those sizes to work with a common movement. They don't have dial feet to line up and don't have a date window or small seconds or chronograph holes. Keep in mind that you can always cut a dial out of a thin sheet of brass to make it the size you need. Making it round is harder without a lathe but it is possible to still spin it on a rotary tool and grind down the edge.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Knebo
      Epilame / Fixodrop

      By Knebo · Posted

      I did that also for a few movements - well, mainly in/around the train jewels. I made big efforts to epilame the mainplate WITHOUT getting Epilame into the Pallet fork jewels (where it's not supposed to be, right?). I made litte barriers with Rodico around that jewel and used drops from a syringe to apply on the rest.  However, I've now stopped doing this. For three reasons: 1. It's a hassle and consumes more of this liquid gold. 2. I didn't see the need when using HP1000/HP1300 lubricants and grease for most part. The two places where I'd use 9010 (i.e. escape wheel and balance) receive Epilame in specific places... or the cap-jewel-setting of the balance suspends the oil sufficiently be capillary action (see my "conflict" about using Epilame on the balance jewels).  3. Lastly, and here I really wonder about yours and others' experiences: I felt that applying Epliame to the train jewels left them looking hazy (borderline dirty) compared to the (painstakingly achieved) sparkly clean results of my cleaning process. I just can't help but think that the Epilame residuals would mix with the oil and cause more friction/wear. I don't know.    simple: it'll stay there. It won't move any further. That's exactly what is happening if you epilame a cap stone. You end up placing the 9010 right on top of the epilame and the oil will sit nicely on that spot.
    • Neverenoughwatches
      Coil for old Seiko Credor -- 4002920

      By Neverenoughwatches · Posted

      There are some parts on Ebay for the seiko 6020A, it may just be a waiting game for someone to strip one down, NOS will be more scarce . K would strip your movement down to the module then start looking at other seiko movement to see if that coil is used, then seek out a seiko part dealer. Also Retrowatches youtube owner Mike may give you some advice try him on his site . He also hangs around amateur watchmaking groups.
    • Waggy
      Setting lever spring

      By Waggy · Posted

      I would agree, in order to work harden something you need to exceed it's yield strength when it moves from the elastic zone to the plastic zone and you get permanent deformation and work hardening which is fairly close to its failure point, relatively speaking and dependent on the material/alloy of course. In theory you can load something constantly within its elastic range and not suffer work hardening issues.
    • Waggy
      Coil for old Seiko Credor -- 4002920

      By Waggy · Posted

      Probably easier to get a complete new movement - but CousinsUK list it as discontinued. Maybe someone on here knows a substitute movement ?
    • Kkramme
      Coil for old Seiko Credor -- 4002920

      By Kkramme · Posted

      Any other thoughts on how I can get a replacement coil? Any “hidden” or unknown physical shops (in Australia or elsewhere) that might have them in stock (but not always online)?
×
×
  • Create New...