Jump to content

Atlantic Worldmaster Movement - Opinions?


Recommended Posts

I'm checking out the movement in an Atlantic Worldmaster on eBay. There wasn't a picture of the movement originally available, but I sent a message to the vendor requesting him to post a pic if he could. Which he kindly has done.

 

Now - to my mind, the screws holding the crown and ratchet wheels look slightly misaligned - or is that my imagination? Some of the screws look a bit battered, and the screw holding the click also looks slightly odd... The seller's not a watch specialist - just a general seller of stuff - and had to go to a watch repairer to get the back opened. Atlantic made some good movements, but the watches are expensive, even s/h, and I'm not impressed with this movement.

 

post-64-0-23430700-1418754107_thumb.jpg

Edited by WillFly
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Will,

 

I all looks OK from what I could see at Ranfft. It is an ETA 1113 and from their pics (not too big though), the screws seem to be correct. Do you know if the watch is winding properly and running more or less?

 

Cheers ,

 

Bob

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Agree with Bob, ETA1113.

There are some odd reflections on the right hand side of the screws which makes it difficult to assess their condition and because they are the biggest screws it's most pronounced on the screws you mentioned. That might be why they appear to be misaligned. There does appear to be some minor damage to some of the screw slots, and the clamp screws don't seem to match, but otherwise it looks good to me.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

From the description it is said to be winding and running OK - I was just thrown a bit by the look of the wheels as I said above. It may just be a trick of the light.

 

Atlantic was a good make aimed at the Eastern European markets, so a lot appear from places like Poland, Russia, etc. - and I'm often a bit wary of them for that reason. But the Worldmaster is quite sought after and commands prices in the £200-£400 range. Hence my caution here.

 

Thanks for the opinions, guys - appreciated.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I got this set from Cousins. I believe the arbors are steel and it's been working very well. Not all Chinese sets are the same. Some a decent and some are crap. My most appreciated mainspring winder is my Master Craft Mainspring Winder:  
    • 👍I  like modifications that work.
    • Excellent advice!  Mainspring winders are generally a nightmare. In order to be absolutely sure that they work, they must be adapted for specific calibres. Sure, you can build up a collection of winders over time, but it's expensive and time-consuming and you still can't be sure that any of the ones you have in your collection will fit. When I was new, I considered buying Bergeon's large universal set because I thought it would cover all situations, but that's not the case. The risks of hand winding a mainspring are often exaggerated. With the right technique and training, the risks are not much greater than with a winder. Moreover, if the spring has a T-shaped bridle, you may not even get it into the barrel. Here is an excellent description by a professional how to hand wind: Yes, a well-established practice among professional repairers is to always replace the spring even when it is in good condition. Personally, I think it is an unnecessary cost because modern springs last a very long time. Some fatigue occurs over time but if you are unsure, you can always test the power reserve. It is also an unnecessary risk to replace a spring if it is still in good condition. If an original spring is not available, it is not certain that the alloy in a generic spring corresponds to the properties of the original spring. This seems to be particularly true for some Japanese movements, especially Seiko and Orient. For any Swiss movement, I'd say the risk is non-existent.
    • I had a similar problem with a chinese set - with that, I drilled the drum out to take the slightly larger arbor; it only needed about 0.2mm increase so no detriment when using the original arbor. (One was LH the other was RH, in that case).
    • There is a tool to straighten this, but it will cost you 50x this wheel.
×
×
  • Create New...