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By HectorLooi · Posted
I love my brass tweezers and use them for 90% of my work. I like that brass is soft and does not scratch parts and it seems to grip parts better than stainless steel. And brass is also non-magnetic, which really helps when working on quartz movements. However, brass is a little too weak for jobs like pulling back yoke springs. So I thought of upgrading to bronze. But I can't seem to find curved bronze tweezers. And Cousins price for a pair of Bergeon straight bronze tweezers is around £45. A couple of months back I had the idea of swapping out the carbon fibre tips of my tweezers and putting in bronze tips. And that is what I did. I got a piece of 2.0mm bronze sheet from AliExpress and cut out 2 curved tips and replaced the carbon fibre tips. I'll probably thin down the tip further gradually to a point where it still has strength to draw back thick yoke springs. -
Ah, well that's a relief, though the parts document does list a 1520 which is a coupling clutch. This threw me for a while (it's a quiet day in the office) until I realised I couldn't see a listing for the reverser wheels. So, we're back to the mainspring should slip in the barrel. It can really only be one of three things (that I'm aware of) mainspring 'coned' and pressing slightly on the lid the kink, close to the end of the spring, which puts a sort of a self lock grip on the spring and may not allow the spring to release enough there to allow slipping quantity of lubrication, either not enough, or too little Two of those require new mainsprings, which aren't readily available, though I may post a query about alternative mainspring sizes. The third, will more grease or less be required? The word breaking in breaking grease suggests more means more breaking? -
The idler gear I'm referring too is the one between the 2 barrel wheels. These movements just rely on the spring slipping to prevent over winding. -
By EtherJunky · Posted
Not sure how useful this might be, but a while back I bought some bamboo tweezers (multipack with a ridiculous amount of them in) and have been using them in place of pegwood. Seems to be working just fine -
Ah, well there is the rub. I ordered a post and oscillating weight, but clicked on the wrong thing when adding the weight to the basket adding an automatic bridge. Ordered a weight, and it's somewhere in the ether after our customs and excise folks rejected it because of the documentation. Yes, both springs inserted the same. "Is the idler gear ok", and here's why I posted to the newbie area: So, reading between the lines, and again correct me if I'm wrong here, the automatic winding mechanism will have an ideler gear, along with the reverse wheels, that prevents over-winding? There is nothing (that I'm aware of) between the crown pinion, crown wheel, and the ratchet wheels to prevent over-winding other than the mainsprings slipping in the barrels. This is only the second automatic I've worked on. The other, a Vostok, had a very obvious mechanism. I shall look at the automatic winding mechanism in a bit more detail when I've a bit more time. At the moment I'm taking a glance here now and then when work is dragging 😉 As ever, thank you for your help. Always appreciated.
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