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Posted

Just a couple of pics of a recent service.  Ran the movement in cleaning fluid for a week with a couple of fluid changes.  Lots of crud came off.  Polished the crystal and case, polished up a vintage band.  Oiled and running like a champ now.

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  • Like 1
Posted

Thank you for this treat, I seldom see movements like this one so for me it's super intresting.
Since i like movement porn I have one question, on the first Picture one can see a Little lid in the opposite corner of the balance; I assume this is were the mainspring is. From the Picture it seems the mainspring doesn't have an barrel? Is it just a mainspring and one arbour under the lid?

Posted

Yes, you remove the two screws, and the plate comes off exposing the main spring.  There is a main spring barrel there.  If I had a side shot you would see it.

Westclox and Timex are similar movement designs with only two plates.  This movement was quite easy to work with, especially how easy it was to remove the balance.

Posted

I have a very limited experience from movements like these compared to Swiss movements.Lately I have mostly worked on TIMEX watches since they are common here too.
One have to admit they are just ingenious in their simplicity, even they are made out of pressed sheet metal they mostly after a service starts ticking, not the most accurate but still considering the construction impressive.
I have begun to buy all kinds of pin lever escapements too. For some reason I get amused of the challenges they present. If one is interested in learning about the effects of side and end shake they are a joy to observe. In a fault finding perspective they mostly offer a greater challenge too.
Thank you for your response and keep up with the great work...

  • Like 1
Posted

I too am a Timex person.  Service about 1 Timex a week as a hobby.  Every once in a while an oddball watch like this will be part of a lot, and I get very interested in making it go.  Cheers.

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    • I've found with Russian watches they don't stick to the Swiss numbering system. The problem with the mainspring is that as this is a dual barrel system they're very small compared to most automatics. If you look on Cousins the weakest 1.45mm high spring is 0.085mm which could be too powerful for this movement and is also designed for a 7.5mm barrel. If you then look at the GR Catalogue and work back from the GR3930X, this is the first auto with correct power rating. Although you'd probably have to go back further to this one to make sure it fits.    
    • Hi all, I’m currently working on an ETA 2836-2 movement. I replaced the pallet fork with a new one (ETA2801710, sourced from CousinsUK). After full reassembly and lubrication, I’ve encountered a strange issue: The movement is fully wound and has power. When I fit the balance assembly, the movement does not tick at all—completely dead. When I remove the balance, the gear train suddenly releases and spins freely, indicating power was present. The pallet fork just “floats” without snapping side to side—almost as if it isn’t even there. No interaction with the escape wheel is visible at that point. However: Before fitting the balance, I checked the pallet fork manually — it was working as it should, clearly interacting with the escape wheel. I’ve inspected the pallet bridge jewel (where the pallet fork sits) and everything looks normal. No signs of misalignment or obstruction. I’ve rechecked everything I can think of and I’m completely out of ideas. Has anyone seen this behaviour before? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance! TT
    • Thanks for the prompt response. I apologise for not stating the issue more clearly. The problem is that - what I now know I should have called - the centre wheel is not being turned by the pinion (which is driven by the barrel) with which it shares the arbour (1st photo above). The pinion & arbour are indeed reverse threaded but the arbour (the 'screw') is clearly damaged ('rounded' rather than 'sharp' threads) with swarf evident. When the pinion is screwed on there is only enough connection to prevent the pinion being lifted off but not enough to stop it turning on the arbour. Is a (reversible) repair (threadlocker?) possible in the short term while a replacement centre wheel assembly is sought so that the viability otherwise of the watch can be established?
    • Sorry this is a bit late but how did it go for you?   I'm working on a 561 with a similar issue. Cheers, Martin
    • I'm struggling to put it back so I'm going to watch a tutorial so may be a few hours.
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