Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Around a month ago a good friend of mine, Bernard, who’s a watchmaker, gave me a, circa 1800, verge watch to have a go at restoring; he figured I had the patience for it :D
The case is a much younger brass one, and it was missing hands and a crystal. I’ve since made a pair of brass hands to tide it over, make it look more complete, and to see how it’s going in regards time keeping. Yeah… about that :D

It would seem that sometime in it’s past a healthy chunk of the hair spring got broken off, and it was gaining 1/4hr per hour. I’ve reduced a length of music wire to approx the width of the original, by about .0015” thick, and hope to wind up a 4 coil test replacement (the current one has 3 coils, which some of the old watches made do with, but I’m going to give myself a bit of room to move). But that’s a story, and experiment, for another day.
The verge has had problems with getting enough depth, sometimes going into ‘palpitations’ and running double speed, and the ‘scape wheel has no spare end-shake to increase pallet depth. I remembered that the verge’s top bush (in the balance cock), apart from being quite worn (making a suitable sized drill bit was one of my, unsuccessful, excursions today :) ) was drilled a little off centre, whether by design or sloppy workmanship I don’t know. Double checking it’s placement showed that it was about an hour’s rotation off being in line with the ‘scape pivot and closest approach.
The drawings roughly show where things were before adjusting.

IMG_1736.thumb.JPG.144b532e43e1dc79d7e3c94ad0d6f86e.JPG


I carefully scribed a faint reference line across the top surface of the bush, going ‘North-South’ in relation to the balance cock foot, whittled a bamboo press pin and tapped out the bush into a little hollow in a block of wood, re-aligned the bush and pressed it home.
The end result is that the watch is running again (seems not quite as fast as earlier), and in all positions; recently it had stopped working in ‘pendent up’ position, kind of the most important position for a pocket watch :)
So, did a new thing today and it’s not as scary a prospect making a new bush for it in the near future (once I’ve successfully made a suitable drill bit), a bush that I think I might put a screwdriver slot in the top of to help with adjustments. I would like to make, at some stage, a two part bush with a ‘dead hard’ steel ‘end stone’, similar to some they did back then.
Anyway, hope you enjoyed my little discoveries today.
Cheers
Duncan

IMG_1733.thumb.JPG.24d2a0b2843ccf5be080a33c713f61b9.JPG

IMG_1735.thumb.JPG.f84981bff1c6794619231ae85683ca08.JPG

  • Like 1
Posted

The verge was ether to shallow or worn to start with, that is why it was skipping a lot. Do not expect it to keep time like todays watches. If it varies by 10 minutes in 24 hours that is expectable. Parts that are worn in a verge will have a considerable effect on its time keeping.

Posted

Nicely done.

If you have to replace the hairspring the link below may interest you.

It is a post I did a while back on Facebook for Guenter Best who is a master watchmaker at the school I study at.

He had to repair a Verge watch that amongst other things needed a new hairspring.

He found a Waltham pocketwatch hairspring close to the right size, shortened it and then carefully rubber it on fine wet and dry paper to reduce the spring height until it was of the correct strength. He also had to make a new hairspring collet and fit a replacement balance staff

https://www.facebook.com/permalink.php?story_fbid=685132705015586&id=284491725079688&__xts__[0]=68.ARBZQ-pilMoqwnfYH3Iqtq8fVnFWIp_km-CUe3yonMmv8Hvl6Lld57RMNgg2dz8dPqG5ndXE7xuvFxxfiOYuXY8hRZRPFViHunHITPnaqGl_dQpBAgsX79DOWVOwwgsNvnSAVm-y_dPYnPVC6_hYXJVIOKd7J4gue1ziruvZ5cmnpgqVktPKG2PrLRmDvyZKmPkeQAEg-HXjjkjB3Di-H-aU4HN-RuRz4qfMGR7CGNTbbraG5tqWpwWZIGWkkBebTUc2aSwaKW6Jy0c4G73wAffEG2yQ51Yo5wn48I1uITU8Qto0ZahHFa4VJ6h9PyOmMgZILCXFNfPEQXJfnCpHdvg&__tn__=K-R

 

Posted

G'day @Oldhippy, Yes, I know it won't keep time anything like a lever watch. Bernard said that if we can get it to within 15mins a day, then we've got a good one. But at the moment it's gaining nearly 5 hours a day! I have two other, mostly complete, verge watches that I'm practicing on for fusee disassembly/clean etc. I love working on/with very old tools, mechanisms, watches because of the large amount of hand work that went into them, and the much simpler tools used in their creation.

Thanks @Tmuir. Glad to see there's a watchmaking school over there. All the best with your studies.
Cheers
Duncan

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Hi all, I'm currently working on my second Omega Seamaster Cosmic 2000. While the movement is now 'under control', I have a new issue that I have not yet run in to so far. The stem of the Omega is a split stem, with male and female part. The female stem part (attached to the crown side) is broken. So I need to replace it, while of course keeping the original crown. When searching on google/Youtube I see a lot of examples where the threaded stem can be removed with the aid of a pin vice, just unscrew. But this stem looks different, see attached photo's.  No thread and I can't tell if it's one part or multiple parts. I already have an Omega replacement female stem from Cousins, but that one is threaded and much thinner in diameter. Does anyone have experience with this? Can I just unscrew the stem from the crown, or does it work differently?  Hope somebody can help!
    • We need photos, age and price probably just a rough estimate. 
    • Hello all, I am looking for guidance on some Cyma watches I am selling please...Year made approx and possible worth if you could? Also I have a man's Cyma that has numbers stamped around the case where the strap bars are and wonder what they are please. Thanks for and help given. Steve
    • Hello and welcome from Leeds, England. 
    • I agree with hector it's probably the regulator curve, it almost always is on these movements. So i work on these movements a lot and iv'e managed to fairly consistently get them running at like 50 degrees more amplitude than that with deltas in the 3 range and on the wrist deviations of sub 1 second a day. They ALWAYS require work to get there though. The main thing is shaping the regulator curve and this is really finnicky and definitely something you practice on a movement you don't care about when you're new (I'm still new) but if the hairspring is flat and the coils are evenly spaced and the regulator curve is properly shaped and it's pretty wild how accurate these movements can get.  But, it does sound like your regulator curve maybe needs a bit of reshaping. You can easily mess up the watch learning to do this so warning if you don't want to live with your current results but I"m not an expert, it's just speculation but there's a pretty easy way to check.  This is a good video showing how to see if your terminal curve is properly shaped. Just make sure the regulator pins are open when you test this.   He takes off the balance wheel to shape it. I do it with the movement disassembled but the balance on the mainplate. I use a homemade tool from a sharpened dental pic to do the adjustments (Tiny tiny TINY adjustments) and i use the regulator pins themselves to sorta brace the spring against to bend it very tiny amounts and just keep checking it by moving the regulator arm down it till it stops moving the hairspring. Taking off the balance wheel over and over again is a good way to slip and destroy your hairspring and will make the process way slower. I try to avoid removing the balance wheel from the cock it on these movements due to how difficult it is to get the hairspring stud back into the balance cock. It's super easy to slip and twist your spring then you got way worse problems.  Since these are mass manufactured and unadjusted the regulator curve is NEVER perfect but once you learn how to reshape them it's pretty easy to do and you can get REALLY low deltas with really low positional error and pretty remarkable accuracy.  Definitely with it powered down and the balance on the movement with both balance jewels in place look across the spring to see if it's perfectly flat, then check the regulator curve how he does it in the video. I would bet money even if it's not your main issue the regulator curve is not ideal also. 
×
×
  • Create New...