Jump to content

The legendary Omega 1611 Chrono-Quartz Montreal Olympics Albatross


Recommended Posts

So I've desired one of these for ages. Usually they came up at the wrong time and I didn't have the money. About a month ago, a perfect one sold for $960AUD which I was jealous about.
I found a faulty example in germany which was rusted and water damage. The seller kindly had enough photos to show some potential survival prognosis for this unfortunate drowning victim!

It cost me just under $300, and it came without a strap. It clearly has had a hard life, however the case is near perfect.
About a year ago, spare parts still came up on ebay - now not so much. I am aware that Omega don't really want to touch these and it costs stupid amounts as well.

Basically I've stripped it down - can see that someone broke the wiring to the crystal. They have bodged soldered some of the contacts. The general majority of parts are there - it was only missing a crown, battery holder plate and the gasket for the caseback.

The crystal has a light chip in it. Otherwise okay. (it's on the inside).

The circuit board will be cleaned and retraced with tin. The motor is perfectly intact. The Movement plate is totally rusted. I have stripped it down and cleaned it and it looks like it will survive!
You gotta love Swiss quality - no way that chinese parts would survive rust. I have researched and found that the 1320 cal is similar - the running gear is quite the same, the only part I broke on mine was the setting lever - which is easily sourced.

I have broken one calendar retaining screw but no big deal. They were super rusted and I was lucky to get them out.

My ultrasonic cleaner sadly decided to go bust - so I will have to wait to finish this job.
My final step is to remove the stem from the movement hopefully.

The cost of a donor 1320 is around $180 - a donor complete watch with crown is about $300.
I want to at the worst case just get the analog side working - if I cant get the digital side working - no big deal - it is still a grail watch for me on a budget.

As the strap is missing, my plan  is to modernize it and fit a leather strap. I plan to cut a intermediate attachement piece from aluminium or steel which will sit between the strap and the case - I will also source an omega deployment clasp and make sure I brush the steel to fit the look. The leather will be thick cowhide in tan colour.

It is a huge project- but luckily I have experience working with rusted calibers and also Omega. Quartz has also been my recent play area and so hopefully should be all good.

At the worst case it will sit until I find a donor movement and/or crystal.

 

I forecast a working watch for around $700 total inc. purchase price. That isn't ideal - but it isn't horrible either. We are talking Australian Dollaridoos as well which are similar par to Canadian dollars.

Oh woops - I forgot that I will possible get the dial re-surfaced. Not sure - maybe not. The patina is interesting but a little rough. Who knows, lets see.

If anyone has spare parts or ideas - I will kiss your feet :)

IMG_20181126_160538.jpg

IMG_20181126_222237.jpg

IMG_20181126_222240.jpg

IMG_20181126_222245.jpg

IMG_20181126_222245_1.jpg

IMG_20181126_222246.jpg

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Will do, I've ordered a donor 1320 movement.
I managed to clean all the old parts except the minute wheel which is a tad rusty (but may work).
The calendar date ring is garbage, as is the calendar retainer plate. although could be used in a pinch.

If the part was extremely rare, I would have sent the date ring to a dial specialist to reprint - hopefully the 1320 ring matches.

The stem was broken so thats no good. The crown yoke is de-chromed - so will need replacement.

A lot of the parts suprisingly survived. The base plate is really all I need to survive.

Will post pics soonish. Waiting on a soldering iron to touch up the circuit board.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...


  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • These types of hairsprings become weak with age and very fragile. Which I expect it is that giving you trouble, and that wheel is not the correct one, if it were not bent I don't think the movement would run as the teeth are not the correct height. The problem you have is price which depends on you. It can be repaired but is it worth it to you, because there is little value in the clock. A wheel can be made and hairspring replaced. Or hang on to it and keep looking on ebay which is your best bet for replacement parts or even a complete movement but it will be like finding a needle in a haystack. 
    • I did that also for a few movements - well, mainly in/around the train jewels. I made big efforts to epilame the mainplate WITHOUT getting Epilame into the Pallet fork jewels (where it's not supposed to be, right?). I made litte barriers with Rodico around that jewel and used drops from a syringe to apply on the rest.  However, I've now stopped doing this. For three reasons: 1. It's a hassle and consumes more of this liquid gold. 2. I didn't see the need when using HP1000/HP1300 lubricants and grease for most part. The two places where I'd use 9010 (i.e. escape wheel and balance) receive Epilame in specific places... or the cap-jewel-setting of the balance suspends the oil sufficiently be capillary action (see my "conflict" about using Epilame on the balance jewels).  3. Lastly, and here I really wonder about yours and others' experiences: I felt that applying Epliame to the train jewels left them looking hazy (borderline dirty) compared to the (painstakingly achieved) sparkly clean results of my cleaning process. I just can't help but think that the Epilame residuals would mix with the oil and cause more friction/wear. I don't know.    simple: it'll stay there. It won't move any further. That's exactly what is happening if you epilame a cap stone. You end up placing the 9010 right on top of the epilame and the oil will sit nicely on that spot.
    • There are some parts on Ebay for the seiko 6020A, it may just be a waiting game for someone to strip one down, NOS will be more scarce . K would strip your movement down to the module then start looking at other seiko movement to see if that coil is used, then seek out a seiko part dealer. Also Retrowatches youtube owner Mike may give you some advice try him on his site . He also hangs around amateur watchmaking groups.
    • I would agree, in order to work harden something you need to exceed it's yield strength when it moves from the elastic zone to the plastic zone and you get permanent deformation and work hardening which is fairly close to its failure point, relatively speaking and dependent on the material/alloy of course. In theory you can load something constantly within its elastic range and not suffer work hardening issues.
    • Probably easier to get a complete new movement - but CousinsUK list it as discontinued. Maybe someone on here knows a substitute movement ?
×
×
  • Create New...