Jump to content

2832-2 Problem with Minute Train Bridge #462


Folkvisor

Recommended Posts

Hi

For some reason, after the minute train bridge #462 is replaced, when setting the time:

the setting wheel #450 slips

and the sliding pinion #407 cannot continue to engage the gears of #450

This doesn't happen when #462 is removed only when it is replaced.

Perhaps the minute train bridge is bent and needs to be replaced.

Thank you for your input.

Dave

IMG_0585.thumb.JPG.271d80cf0cbebe9b8f80c152d28bb458.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I don't really have any answer for this ... just didn't want you to think you were being ignored!

Here's a pic of your movement (or at least the same series) with bridge #462 in place...

image.png.0a0ada24e3a869f96e4dba58e46f2748.png

From what you're saying it's like the setting wheel #450 (adjacent to date 14 in the picture) isn't 'meshing' properly ... but oddly when the bridge is in place. If anything I'd expect the opposite of this e.g. if testing a reassembly without the bridge to hold things in place then a wheel could jump. But in place? ... the bridge should be holding all that area together in place!

So it could be that the bridge is deformed somehow (but this would be apparent under close inspection) ... I guess you could screw down a half-turn at a time and see at which point things fail to check this hypothesis. Also check the screw holding the bridge; I've had a situation in the past where a movement had three screws holding a (train) bridge and where one was a slightly different length; in the wrong place this caused issues. Highly unlikely in the case of your single screw holding the bridge but ... !

Sorry I can't really add anything and I hope you sort this out! How frustrating!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You described the problem perfectly! LOL

Yes, it's a poser. I asked a watchmaker friend about it and he told me he'd never experienced it.

He just said, "Maybe the train bridge needs to be replaced." Perhaps, but there is no sign of it being bent or anything. 

Strange. It just started to do it one day; no idea why. I want to get it working properly before I tackle anything more complex.

Thank you for your answer. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It might be worth watching the video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZG4XhhB6xAs at around 10:15 in and then again at 11:15 in just to double check the assembly/workings around this area. Okay so Mark is working on a 2824 clone but  it should be the same parts as your 2832. 

Is, for instance, the double corrector lever that the setting wheel sits on definitely seated correctly and able to move freely? If not this might be another explanation where the pressure of the bridge is enough to prevent the necessary/correct lever action to engage the setting wheel..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes, good idea. Thank you. I've watched it a few times before I had this problem and I will give it another go.

I, too, was wondering if it had something to do with the double corrector lever; I will check that. Thank you for corroborating my suspicions...

It may well be the problem but could that happen out of the blue when the watch is being worn?

I still think it's strange...

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I hate to admit this but, when I made a closer examination of the keyless works, I found a small red thread and some other stuff that shouldn’t have been in there. I could see that the thread was definitely interfering with the setting wheel. 

I’m pretty sure cleaning the parts and reassembling it more cleanly and carefully will fix the problem. 

So, I guess it really is important to make sure you keep movements clean.

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Hello, I am about 5 months into watchmaking and I love it!   The attention to precise detail is what really attracts me to it. (and the tools!) I am working on a 16 jewel 43mm pocket watch movement.   There are no markings besides a serial number (122248) .  The balance staff needs replacement. The roller side pivot broke off.  I successfully removed the hairspring using Bergeon 5430's.  I successfully removed the roller using Bergeon 2810.   Did i mention I love the tools?! I removed the staff from the balance wheel using a vintage K&D staff removal tool  with my Bergeon 15285 (that's the one that comes with a micrometer adjustment so it can be used as a jewel press as well as a traditional staking tool...it's sooooo cool...sorry..  can you tell i love the tools?) No more digressing..  I measured the damaged staff in all the relevant areas but I have to estimate on some because one of the pivots is missing. A = Full length  A= 4.80mm  (that's without the one pivot...if you assume that the missing pivot is the same length as the other pivot (I'm sure it's not)  then A = 5.12 mm...(can I assume 5.00mm here?) F=  Hair spring collet seat  F=  .89mm   (safe to assume .90 here? .. I am sure that my measurement's would at least contain  .01 mm error ?) G = balance wheel seat  G = 1.23 mm  (1.20mm?) H  =  roller staff  H =  .59mm  (.60 mm?) B  = bottom of the wheel to roller pivot   B  = 2.97mm  (3.00 mm?)     here I am estimating  again because this pivot is missing. So my friends, and I thank you profusely,  can you point me in the right direction as to how to proceed? Do i buy individual staffs?  or an assortment?   Since I don't know exactly the name of the manufacturer, will that be a fatal hindrance?   Tbh, I'm not even sure what country of origin this movement is. Thank you!    
    • Thats why i asked that question earlier, what happens if lubrication is placed directly on top of epilame ?  As opposed to walled within its non epilamed area . I'm not saying its right, i have no idea , just asking questions. 
    • thinking of where epilam should be removed did you know there was a patent that covers this? At least for the escapement I'm attaching it. GB1057607A-1 epilame.pdf
    • Back home...printing now.  Will report results
    • Oh well, if Master @nickelsilver says it's the way to go, then it is the way to go! I stand corrected! 🫡 Are there any other places where you're supposed to remove the epilame from the contact point of rubbing? I don't think so! Thanks for the effort @Neverenoughwatches, much appreciated! 🙂👍
×
×
  • Create New...