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Yes! This is the clarification I was looking for. The jewel I have to replace is the escape wheel jewel in the mainplate. I will try to source an olive shaped jewel if the size is available. I had made this assumption but being fairly new to the trade I wanted someone with more experience to chime in. Thanks for your assistance. Now the only problem I have is to determine the best way to remove the broken jewel. I do have a jeweling tool so that is not the issue. The issue lies with the mainplate itself. The jewel sits in a recess on the dial side of the movement so setting up the correct stump is a bit perplexing, as this is the side I would prefer to push the jewel out to. As I have much better reference surface on the train side to record base plate depth vs depth of jewel prior to removing which in my head would make replacing a whole lot easier since I would have a depth to install to. That is correct. I do apologize in advance for not knowing the abbreviations you posted. But I am replacing a jewel for the escape wheel in the mainplate. Movement is a AS ST 50/51. -
Wow! Mr Wostep himself 🙂 Thanks for pointing us to this video. -
Did you ask the question on the group of how should I do this? On any type of special end Mainsprings and I words things that have protruding off the edges that need to go into holes or slots In the barrel there is an easy procedure. Yes I know it's another tool to purchase but watch repair is all about purchasing tools. You need a mainspring winder the mainspring into the winder you leave a little bit out you do not wind it all the way and like you would normal Swiss type spring. Click a little bit sticking out to stick that into the barrel with the rest of the winder which means it all has to fit you have to pick the right diameter you rotated around until your slot lines up with the protruding part of the mainspring. You then pushed that part of the mainspring in the slot hold it in place with like the back end of a tweezer or the biggest screwdriver you have any push the spring out. The very simple procedure if you understand what you need to do. Otherwise you can hand winding up in but that is generally frowned upon for a variety of reasons. That doesn't mean that it doesn't happen every single day right now someone on the plan is probably hand winding a mainspring it just can't have issues it's better if you could use a winder -
A forgotten part of a horological history is what you're quoting. I don't have an exact time frame but somewhere in the 60s through the 70s there were a variety of solutions that you could have. One of them was called miracle lube and there are a variety of other names for them. I finally saw material safety sheets for one of them and basically it was mineral oil dissolved in the rinse the final rinse your cleaning that is. So the oils in the rinse it gets everywhere in its stride Larry action pulls the lubrication in to all the cracks crannies and under the plates but it's worked. Ms. very popular in high volume watch shops where there are doing literally hundreds of watches per week and they're doing M at a very bargain price because typically was wholesale work and go the jewelry store and jewelry store didn't care as long as it was cheap enough. For the most part all of those products are gone except they still have the clock one available. So if you're really desperate you could use something like this you get lubrication literally everywhere that it would evaporate and leave the oil in all the cracks and crannies. I assume because are still making the clock version there must be people out there purchasing it.
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No that's definitely a bad attitude. Especially with American pocket watches the banking pins are movable and you should definitely move them leave them in some random place because you can what would be the consequences? Just to be technically correct that's not exactly a wostep handout. If you look carefully at the title which I think I changed after I downloaded it it's a combination of wostep and North Seattle community college As that's Where I down off their website. Which is why it's kind of a mixed up mess of things. But still it's good even if it is kind of a mess Then there's the problem with escapement terminology and time and wherever you're located or and a combination of all of us. If you look at various handouts on the escapement and I'll add in a couple more for you they have differing terminologies and they'll get obsessed with certain terminologies and stuff. The terminology becomes kinda Of amusing like so many things in watch repair there can be actually multiple names for the same part just depending upon where and when. But as you like handouts let's attach a few more. I usually think of the banking pins is there for Horn clearance only. But other people think of them as solutions to potential problems that they perceive they have or have not. Which is why typically on American pocket watches with movable banking pins they been moved. Then related to these so-called wostep handout is this lecture. Yes a perfect example of what happens when you film a lecture given at AWCI convention the audio sucks. But it's an extremely good lecture he's a very good teacher is well worth your time and effort to try to make it through it. Elgin watch company Escapement Terminology.PDF Escapement Detached Lever Escapement.PDF Escapement Elgin setting up the escapement.PDF
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