Jump to content

FHF 90-5 keyless problem

WileyDave

By WileyDave
in Watch Repairs Help & Advice

 Share

Recommended Posts

WileyDave WRT Addict

WileyDave

Posted
Posted

A good friend of mine gave this watch to me to diagnose/clean. Its a 70's Sandoz 25j auto diver. When I first looked at it the two screws that hold winding bridge down were fumbling about inside the case, so I replaced them in appropriate spots. Then it ran crazy fast, so my first though was magnetized. However, the winding/keyless will not go back into place. The stem and winding wheel are indexed so they will only align when fitted precisely. The crown is spring loaded screwdown, so it's difficult to push stem with appropriate force to make certain it's properly engaged, (in movement). My questions are: Does anyone have experience with these? Am I missing another gear? (are there two)? I have had it (stem) in and winding and setting, but fear I may have lost a part!?! It's not been cleaned yet so any help would be appreciated, Thanks!

DSCF0123.thumb.JPG.0fb0560489b2b2a7b33b61ddb8239848.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites
rogart63 Distinguished Member

rogart63

Posted
Posted (edited)

That is common that that gear falls out? Happens when you removes the stem and tilt the movement? Also easy to put back again. So no problem there? If nothing else isn't  wrong under there? Sounds like it could be though as the small screws where loose? Someone tried to do something with it? Maybe put the setting lever back by taking of the winding bridge? Instead of removing the dial?

Running fast is probably dirty hairspring sticking together ? Sounds like it needs a service? 

Edited by rogart63
Link to comment
Share on other sites
WileyDave WRT Addict

WileyDave

Posted
  • Author
Posted
6 hours ago, rogart63 said:

That is common that that gear falls out? Happens when you removes the stem and tilt the movement? Also easy to put back again. So no problem there? If nothing else isn't  wrong under there? Sounds like it could be though as the small screws where loose? Someone tried to do something with it? Maybe put the setting lever back by taking of the winding bridge? Instead of removing the dial?

Running fast is probably dirty hairspring sticking together ? Sounds like it needs a service? 

Don't believe it's ever been serviced, it was sitting since the 70's, (no marks in back case). You're correct with the tilting of movement for replacement of gear, stem will still not engage even with detent pushed in, just frustrating! The cleaning and demag should end fast running as I recall the mainspring stayed pretty tight with a manual wind and it ran for over 24 hrs. I'll remove winding bridge and check underneath. Thanks for your response. Dave

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
rogart63 Distinguished Member

rogart63

Posted
Posted (edited)
18 hours ago, WileyDave said:

Don't believe it's ever been serviced, it was sitting since the 70's, (no marks in back case). You're correct with the tilting of movement for replacement of gear, stem will still not engage even with detent pushed in, just frustrating! The cleaning and demag should end fast running as I recall the mainspring stayed pretty tight with a manual wind and it ran for over 24 hrs. I'll remove winding bridge and check underneath. Thanks for your response. Dave

Think i have some parts if you need anything? pdf you have here? Same movement? http://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&pid=sites&srcid=Z2xlYXZlYW5kY28uY29tfHRlY2huaWNhbHxneDoxNTZiMTgyM2U5MzY3NWQ1

 

See in the pdf that someone has written wheel on stem :) 

Edited by rogart63
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
WileyDave WRT Addict

WileyDave

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks rogart63, I may have inadvertently tried to replace that part backwards, I also noticed it was sticking to stem, even after cleaning up (magnetized?), perhaps another reason it didn't want to seat down inside, thanks for the parts list, makes it much easier to ID all parts, obviously this is my first stab at one of these and because it's a good friends watch, (purchased on a day trip to Switzerland while on student exchange in France)  So, I don't really want to screw it up!  Again, my thanks, you have been more than generous with the file and offer of spares. Dave

Link to comment
Share on other sites
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Knebo
      Epilame / Fixodrop

      By Knebo · Posted

      Yes, I was referring to the (jewelled) gear train with HP (most of the time, I use 1300, but when Rolex says 1000, I'll use 1000).
    • JohnR725
      Without Our Forum

      By JohnR725 · Posted

      did I miss the update of the message of something changing?      
    • JohnR725
      Epilame / Fixodrop

      By JohnR725 · Posted

      I suppose it would depend upon what your lubricating with those? for instance what does the manufacturer say about those lubricants? I have a PDF from the manufacture and a rather peculiar statement found on the bottom of the chart. my suspicion is the reason the recommending would be without epilam the HP oils like the spread except when they're in Ruby jewel's with steel pivots. tableEN lubrication 2020.pdf
    • oldhippy
      Is this a 'hack' ?

      By oldhippy · Posted

      These types of hairsprings become weak with age and very fragile. Which I expect it is that giving you trouble, and that wheel is not the correct one, if it were not bent I don't think the movement would run as the teeth are not the correct height. The problem you have is price which depends on you. It can be repaired but is it worth it to you, because there is little value in the clock. A wheel can be made and hairspring replaced. Or hang on to it and keep looking on ebay which is your best bet for replacement parts or even a complete movement but it will be like finding a needle in a haystack. 
    • Knebo
      Epilame / Fixodrop

      By Knebo · Posted

      I did that also for a few movements - well, mainly in/around the train jewels. I made big efforts to epilame the mainplate WITHOUT getting Epilame into the Pallet fork jewels (where it's not supposed to be, right?). I made litte barriers with Rodico around that jewel and used drops from a syringe to apply on the rest.  However, I've now stopped doing this. For three reasons: 1. It's a hassle and consumes more of this liquid gold. 2. I didn't see the need when using HP1000/HP1300 lubricants and grease for most part. The two places where I'd use 9010 (i.e. escape wheel and balance) receive Epilame in specific places... or the cap-jewel-setting of the balance suspends the oil sufficiently be capillary action (see my "conflict" about using Epilame on the balance jewels).  3. Lastly, and here I really wonder about yours and others' experiences: I felt that applying Epliame to the train jewels left them looking hazy (borderline dirty) compared to the (painstakingly achieved) sparkly clean results of my cleaning process. I just can't help but think that the Epilame residuals would mix with the oil and cause more friction/wear. I don't know.    simple: it'll stay there. It won't move any further. That's exactly what is happening if you epilame a cap stone. You end up placing the 9010 right on top of the epilame and the oil will sit nicely on that spot.
×
×
  • Create New...