Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Picked up a staking kit from fleabay and as often with fleabay it's almost working lol

When you lock down the platter? table? it doesn't quite lock. The plunger doesn't quite pull down enough.

Not being familiar with this I can't work out if it's worn or there is a bit missing. I'm leaning towards the missing theory - maybe a shim under the table or a roller on the end of the locking shaft.

Anyone seen one of this model/type before?

P3220003.thumb.JPG.b4d1c8b013efaa67779f5036c018e8a2.JPGP3220004.thumb.JPG.6d2747a1ee510ebf5a1f3d3cd5f1b4f9.JPGP3220005.thumb.JPG.df275599d991e01040a63f541516b9eb.JPGP3220007.thumb.JPG.3298bbda05cf70dab3583339750c8b4e.JPG

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

when its assembled, am I safe in assuming that the reduced diameter eccentric portion of the shaft is in the hole?   If just extremely worn, said eccentric portion would not look round when viewed from the end.  My guess is there should a bushing on it - make something with the ID = the eccentric portion and the OD fitting the hole in the post.  I've not seen one like that before, just mechanically speculating :)

Edited by measuretwice
Posted
1 hour ago, measuretwice said:

when its assembled, am I safe in assuming that the reduced diameter eccentric portion of the shaft is in the hole?   If just extremely worn, said eccentric portion would not look round when viewed from the end.  My guess is there should a bushing on it - make something with the ID = the eccentric portion and the OD fitting the hole in the post.  I've not seen one like that before, just mechanically speculating :)

Yes.

As you rotate the locking shaft it should pull the pin down and clamp the table. But there is too much play. The shaft doesn't look worn or bent - so there must be something missing - either a shim under the table or as you suggest a bush on the end of the eccentric.

P3240009.thumb.JPG.4dacbe6bd069bdc2710047a519a29a49.JPG

Posted

Thinking about it though - the collar wouldn't need to be a tight fit. Just so long as the outside diameter is less that the locking rod and the thickness was less that the distance between the pin and the edge of the lock rod... maybe I could find a bit of brass/copper tube at the hardware store and file it down ... hmmmmm

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Make a brass bush - it's helped but it still won't lock.

If I make the bush thicker then the cam won't be able to turn past the 90deg point.

Can't work out what's going on here...

P4070001.thumb.JPG.35a5e74a75e0c88cc2857e112c6effd1.JPG

 

Posted

hmmm, apologies if I led you astray.  Looking at it again, perhaps what is required is a piece who's OD matches the post hole, and and has a hole to match the eccentric pin, but that the hole is offset by how much the pin is eccentric.  Clear as mud?  something of this shape:

 

Endcup-eccentric-draw2-258x248--1024x102

 

 

Posted (edited)

I think I see what you mean. An insert into the vertical post? But doesn't that have the same effect as the bush?

I'm not as good with the CAD - let me draw this on paper and post back (probably tomorrow now).

Edited by p2n
Posted (edited)

yeah, I think you're right, the drawing above will just spin.  While i'm bouncing around a bit, it has to be the first idea, a bush with the OD close to the hole in the post....either that or a combination of the two, an offset hole but not offset quite as much as the eccentric pin.   

Edited by measuretwice

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Hello all, just disassembling to service, but I can’t figure out the working of the calendar work…it’s not operational the jumper and spring are ok, but the operation of the driving wheel has me at a loss. I can’t see a cam to drive anything. Is something damaged or missing? Help please!
    • Believe the relume (not a fan) was done a long time after the damage. 
    • I can only think of some chemical reaction to reluming
    • I have a little milling attachment for my WW lathe, but very rarely use it and not for wheel and pinion cutting. For that I use a small Sixis 101 milling machine. I normally do direct dividing, but sometimes have to do an odd count and use the universal index which also fits on the Sixis.   Back in the day when I didn't have a mill, I would cut gearing on my Schaublin 102. It has a universal dividing attachment which fits the back of the spindle. Both it and the one for the Sixis are 60:1 ratio, and with the set of 4  index plates I can do almost any division. When I've had to do a strange high count prime number, I print a disc with the needed division and just place the plunger on the dot. Any position error is reduced by a factor of 60 so still plenty accurate.   The machines are a mess in the pics as I'm in the process of making a batch of barrels for a wristwatch 🙃.   This is the Sixis. The head can also be placed vertically, as can the dividing spindle.   Dividing plates. The smaller ones fit another dividing spindle.   Universal divider for the Sixis. I put it together with parts from an odd Sixis spindle that takes w20 collets, like the Schaublin 102, and a dividing attachment from a Schaublin mill.     The dividing attachment for the 102. The gear fits in place of the handwheel at the back of the headstock.   And the little milling attachment for the WW lathe. I just set it on the slide rest to illustrate the size, you can see from the dust on it it really doesn't get used much. I think only when I change bearing in the head, to kiss the collet head seat (grinding wheel still in the milling attachment).
    • I read a lot about the quality (or lack thereof) of Seiko's 4R, 6R, 8L  movements...or more specifically the lack of regulation from the factory. Especially when compared to similar priced manufactures using SW200's or ETA's. I thought I'd ask those more in the know, do the 4R's and 6R's deserve their bad reputation, is it fairly easy for someone with minimal skills (or better yet a trained watch mechanic) to dial in these movements to a more acceptable performance.    For background I spent more on a 1861 Speedy years ago, expecting that the advertised 0-15s/d  would probably perform more like 5-7s/d. In reality it's been closed to 2-4s/d. 
×
×
  • Create New...