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Escape wheel wear pictures

hofnerpres
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hofnerpres Watch Enthusiast

hofnerpres

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Hello guys

I've been renovating quite a few 1960s Seikos recently and a couple have shown very scattered traces on the timegrapher and generally ratty running after cleaning. All three responded to a new escape wheel very well. Being unable to see the wear using normal magnification I decided to try one of the £15 USB microscopes available on fleabay. They are too light, the software is hit and miss but glue it onto a heavy base and they will do the job. The difference between a good and bad wheel became obvious. The square corners get rounded off by the fork pallet jewels and precision is lost.  The first two shots are from a worn 6602B and a 7625A Auto. Note the rough finish but 50 years ain't bad - neither watch back showed any servicing marks and were bone dry. The third shot is also a 6602 but it's a good performer - note square edges. The last is from my new baby - King Seiko 4402. Very different quality. Three lessons.   1. These devices are fine for simple close examination. 2. Don't neglect oiling the escape pallets - it's tricky but worth the effort  3. Once you've handled a part with your fingers it needs cleaning again - it's horrifying how many skin particles appear.

 

 

Fri Nov 17 14-51-09.jpg

Fri Nov 17 14-54-23.jpg

Sun Nov 19 22-19-25.jpg

Sun Nov 19 12-12-59.jpg

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    • Michalzeszen
      ETA 2472 - how to tackle this crown and stem?

      By Michalzeszen · Posted

      Yes, we're actively discussing it! I believe tomorrow I'll go there so he assembles it. Better safe than sorry. Dude is old and experienced.
    • docrpm
      Elgin Grade 315: Runs/stops with dial down/up

      By docrpm · Posted

      All consistent with my thinking! Makes good sense.  The lower jewels aren’t cracked. However, it’s possible that when I oiled them I didn’t seat them firmly enough. I’ll double check that.  If that balance staff is too short, that would explain a whole lot. But I don’t have a micrometer to measure. Then if it is too short, I’d have to buy an NOS one (presumably different from the 2802 I bought previously). Then we’re back close to the beginning of this discussion. 😂 
    • AndyGSi
      ETA 2472 - how to tackle this crown and stem?

      By AndyGSi · Posted

      Does the watchmaker know it's for a screw down crown and not just a standard split stem as the ones in the photo look standard?
    • dnhb
      Loose roller table

      By dnhb · Posted

      Thank you very much for this. Re: 1. I've so far found that this one needs something thicker than 2x kitchen foil (another suggestion in that thread)! 2. I've been checking where the roller needs to be in relation to the wheel, the hairspring stud/arm & the pallet fork to try to get it right first time. 3. Does one raise notches at both ends of the tube? 4. What is a "driver roller sharpener"?
    • mbwatch
      Elgin Grade 315: Runs/stops with dial down/up

      By mbwatch · Posted

      Hmm, if it is sitting that low I am not sure I would blame end shake (which would be to blame if you turned it DU and the hairspring touched the balance cock). If it is sitting so low that the balance rubs on the pallet bridge I would verify that the balance arms are not dished downward and also that the lower balance jewel doesn't have an issue such as being chipped. Or the balance staff is actually too short, which would have caused your earlier end shake problems too. If you install the pallet bridge without the pallet fork and install the balance, is your free oscillation still good or is it immediately bound up on the pallet bridge? (I have an elgin watch like that where someone in the past ground down the pallet bridge significantly) Yes, you'll need to rotate the hairspring but deal with the pallet bridge interference first.
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