Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

Hi Don,

 

Glad you pointed that out and thank you for letting us know. To my knowledge, they have been on sale for some time since they are pushing newer "models" also offering Horotec and A&F options. For all I know, they may be pretty thick with Bergeon considering all they offer from this manufacturer.

 

They also support the TZ watch school as their official supplier and apparently want to make some essential tools accessible to the students while increasing sales. I also think that most of the offerings common to the TZ school are discounted too either in their direct web site or in their gate from the TZ school (which you don't need to be a student to buy from, I guess).

 

Nevertheless, this side of the pond, they have pretty good prices on many items. An essential one that comes to mind, in addition to the screwdrivers, is the Dumont tweezers, having a better price and better options than any other supplier I know.

 

I usually open 2 shopping carts, one in ofrei and one in esslinger (sometimes also with other suppliers) and go back and forth until I got the best price on everything including s/h. Some of the stuff sold with a name can be had for substantially more savings when you buy "generic".

 

Regretfully, certain generic stuff simply doesn't work the same, therefore -- in my case -- I mix and match even to the point of altering generic tools to accept name brand components. Example: generic pin holder using true Bergeon pins, etc.

 

Just a thought and hopping it helps,

 

Robert

Edited by bobm12
Posted

Hi Robert,

 

I hope it's a good set at a good price since I ordered one. ;O)

 

In building up my tools and supplies I've done a good bit of switching between Esslinger and Ofrei too. Since I'm in California I usually get orders from Ofrei in a day or two.

 

Thanks for the tips.

 

Don

Posted

I'd say you chose right...or we both chose wrong! :)

 

In any case, you won't be dissapointed with that set. And if you are like me, that use it and leave it around on the table for next time vs. back in the holder, you'll love them. They don't roll away, have a confortable grip and the blade material is very durable.

 

Originally I ordered an inexpensive set that ended up in a drawer, forgotten when I got this one. Later I switched the blades on the original cheapo one for Bergeon blades and screws. I was fortunate they fitted with exeption of the .50 (too wobbly). Now when I need a lever or something that may call for a screw driver shape other than its real function I use the cheapos. For normal use I use the Bergeon set.

 

One thing about my cheapo "modded" set is that some of them had to be "fitted" to accept the new blades so they have a more "permanent" fit than the Bergeon's. Unfortunately, the set doesn't have a good feel and finish and tend to roll all over when not in their holder.

Posted

Thanks for sharing Don, Robert. 

 

I count myself as lucky as I've had very good luck with Esslinger the last two orders so I will have to try Otto Frei as well. 

 

Sadly, I've given up on the Canadian distributor I had tried first after I had to phone them after almost four weeks after the order to find out about my back order, and they miraculously found one of the two items I was waiting on to be delivered - one was already sitting there and the other was miraculously due in that same day I called and then I got both a few days later.  

Posted

That sounds more like Miami! No wonder you went to Esslinger!

 

I find Esslinger to be very reliable too as well as Ofrei. Ofrei is more "laid back" but just as good and many prices are a tiny bit more reasonable (if you can call reasonable the industry prices).

 

I've heard about Kas Ker (spelling?) but never ordered from them....and I just received my order from CousinsUK with no issues. So I guess there is still a variety of good suppliers to order from out there.

Posted

I received mine today. They look very nice. I doubt better quality will make a huge difference at my current level of ability, but I've never been disappointed in using the best quality tool I can afford.

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • If a runner, I usually let the movement run in naphta for a minute, some movements need a bit of encouragement to run in liquids, so a quick dip of the movement in naphta then remove and encourage the oscilator with puffer, repeat several soaks.  Or if you don't want to soak or dip the movement in cleaning solution ,   keep putting naphta on jewel holes as the movement runs on bench. A pre-clean of some sort  helps.  Avoid lifting out the fork with tweezers or any tool.  Try blowing fork pivot out  with strong puff of air from jewels holes back side. Good luck .      
    • 60! Wow, that's a lot. Can't say I understand the problem because disassembly is usually quite uneventful, except for springs launching into space. Most people break pivots during assembly. I use a homemade brass pry tool to loosen parts. It's just a short length of hard brass wire sharpened to a chisel point. Don't pry at just one point and crowbar it out. Pry at the notch and when a crack opens up, slip the pry tool in and loosen it at a few more points until the bridge is free.
    • Beginner here. Of about 60 watches I’ve serviced and repaired, I’ve broken a pallet pivot on three, always during disassembly, and usually when the old oil has transformed to glue. Each watch was Swiss, in case that makes a difference. Here’s what happened in each case: - unscrewed the pallet bridge or cock - gently inserted a screwdriver in the  slot under the pallet bridge or cock - gently but firmly rotated the screwdriver, avoiding a forwards force on the screwdriver. If alignment pins stick, the cam action is alternated back and forth between back corners of the plate. - heard a small but horrible click. Is there a special tool or technique for safely lifting the pallet bridge? Should everything be soaked in naphtha before beginning disassembly if there’s any sign of old oil gluing parts together? Thanks! Rob
    • You shared this test with me a few months back on a Hamilton project and so I had checked this watch to find the pins were still equally spaced. Their screw slots were undamaged and very tight hard to move so maybe no one has messed with them before. I can't work on it much today but I did measure the fork slot again and it seems like 0.44 is the right size. I measure the jewel that had been installed at just 0.42. would an undersized too narrow impulse jewel impact the impulse drastically? I ask because I have had it at a state where flipping the fork manually with a tool would unlock some of the time, but the balance was never capable of unlocking.
    • This was what I was afraid of. The movement is not one of the generic black square modules. Remove the movement from the clock and try prying it open very carefully, without breaking the plastic tabs. The plastic might be brittle from age. Clean the wheels and check the battery contacts for corrosion. Check the PCB for bad solder joints. Take plenty of photos along the way.
×
×
  • Create New...