Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

A little update. After wearing it for a few days it seems to need a full service. It does run however it stops every night as it is in the process of the date change. The rest of the day it keeps decent time. May be my next service.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

i've run into the crown coming off of the stem in a few of my watches. what i've been doing is putting a micro drop of thread locker on the crown and reinstalling in on the stem. it usuall will hold until i can get it taken out properly. then i will tighten it on the stem with a pair of tweezers. usually that is all it takes for a permanent fix.

  • Like 1
Posted

o.k. that sounds like it will work. it's probably a notch down on the aggressive scale from loktite. i gotta remember that.

  • Like 1
Posted

I chose to use that knowing good and well that at some point definitely sooner than later I'll probably have to pull that off again to service tgr movement


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Now that I have had more time with it I think it is working fine but only if wound with crown. The automatic portion does not seem to be winding the main spring. What would cause that?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

I have been trying to research this watch and have come across something that I am unsure about as to its originality. The case has a number 2579-343 yet the movement is stamped 345. Would this necessarily mean that this movement is not original to this specific case? I know the 343 and 345 were from the same time period but beyond this I am not real sure. I have sent the question to Longines but it will be a couple of weeks before I hear back from them and I was hoping maybe someone might know a little about this. I am planning on getting rid of this one soon and just want to know everything I can about it first.

DSC04762.JPG

DSC04763.JPG

DSC04764.JPG

Posted

I looked up the 345 movement on the Ranfft website and found it to be quite interesting with a few unusual details...

Screen shot 2017-01-22 at 9.58.57 PM.png

Screen shot 2017-01-22 at 9.59.22 PM.png

Screen shot 2017-01-22 at 10.16.10 PM.png

First off bring the optional Ruby bearings for the rotor , and not mentioned in jewel count. Next is what is described as the dial side ratchet crown mechanism with rocker bar.

As far as the case markings , I will venture a guess that the same case was used for the different calibers in this same series family . I have a Longines 5 Star Admiral that uses the same case for the 508 , 505 , 503 , and maybe others . The differences in the calibers may be that some are day , day / date , different jewel count , etc.

It could have also been a transitional period between the calibers . As I said , just a guess and hopefully Longines or someone else can shed some light on the subject .

A Very nice looking watch you have there . You can't go wrong with a Longines.

  • Like 1
  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Hello all, I am working on an older Valjoux Chrono. It doesn't have a stamp on the movement anywhere but I believe it is a Valjoux 72. I installed the train of wheels and they will not turn. The problem appears to be the 4th wheel and the escape wheel are not interfacing correctly. I had to replace both of these parts as the pivots were broken on each. I sourced genuine Valjoux/ETA replacements. I think the problem is with the escape wheel as all the wheels turn perfectly if I remove just the escape wheel.  My question to those with more Valjoux experience is am I mistaken? Is this some other model altogether and I have the wrong part or parts?    
    • I would remove the wheels, check for damage and if not damaged, clean. 
    • Thanks for the replies! Here's a photo of the front of the clock and a GIF animation of the movement (exposed by removing the black cap in the centre of the clock). You can see the behaviour of the gears. It's a fairly valuable clock from the 80s (Braun ABW 35). I'm not sure if replacing the movement would diminish the value, so I'd prefer to keep the original parts if it's easy to fix. But since the movement itself is pretty generic, I guess, maybe replacing it wouldn't make any difference with regard to the value of the clock? Or would it? I suppose the value is mostly in the design.
    • Well, my fundamental stance is that I want to go in and out without leaving any trace other than a shining, perfectly running movement. So, no scratchings on the inside of the case back lid, no marred screws, no debris, no fingerprints, and so on. That is, my goal is to make it impossible for the FBI to track me down. As a professional, I suppose you might want to keep track of returning watches, but as @JohnR725 mentioned, we can keep detailed computer records without marking the watch at all. That may not be true for every watch, but luxury and COSC-certified movements do have unique numbers. John also says it’s best to leave no sign you were ever there, and I couldn't agree more. Now, suppose the Sea-Dweller I'm working on is one day scrapped, and you want to sell the case-back separately (perhaps the case was destroyed in a plane crash). Then the scribbles on the inside no longer reflect the current movement inside the case. Also, the engraving will likely halve the market value of the case back. It had been "sleeping" for about a week and a half. Yes, the "debris/old lubricant" theory is my hypothesis as well! It will be interesting to see what I find once I have time to start disassembling the movement.
    • I've repaired a few of these, having some success with stripping and cleaning the mechanism.  They are so cheap though, its hardly worth the effort in many cases.
×
×
  • Create New...