Jump to content

Diy Watch Hands


Recommended Posts

I'm having a go at putting together my own watch. I brought a case of Ebay, movement, strap etc & have almost finished a dial (once I can get to grips with my dial feet solderer!) I'm now turning my attention to making some hands & so to my question!

 

I'm thinking of making them out of stainless steel, but will this be to hard to go over the pinions? would I be better of using copper & getting it plated?

 

Lee

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Since this will be my first pair of hands & I want them silver in colour & ideally matt, Stainless is ideal. But it crossed my mind all the hands I've swapped over, over the years are usually a plated softer metal & I'm not sure as to how successful fitting stainless would be.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Lee, you could make the hands from anything you like provided the holes are broached to the correct dimensions to give that nice push fit. As you have been working with watches for some time now you will know when you have attained the correct hole diameter just by the feel.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

mwilkes I made this prototype hand out of aluminium this morning, its a bit soft but once in the case would be ideal I think. I need to get some finer files for the real ones, I couldn't get a sharp edge (any suggestions) but I'm pretty pleased with the design, its inspired by the Rolex dial in the Bloodhound SSC land speed record car.

 

post-138-0-02700500-1401527578_thumb.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

mwilkes I made this prototype hand out of aluminium this morning, its a bit soft but once in the case would be ideal I think. I need to get some finer files for the real ones, I couldn't get a sharp edge (any suggestions) but I'm pretty pleased with the design, its inspired by the Rolex dial in the Bloodhound SSC land speed record car.

 

attachicon.gifDSCI0004.JPG

 

I use the diamond files from Eternal Tools as they tend not to drag. Give Lucy a shout at http://www.eternaltools.com/ she will help you.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

wow thats a fabulous link. I brought a few bits & pieces & have done another hand in alloy to get the proportions rights (and some practice) but I'm a long way off producing something I'd be happy to put on my watch so far. I have an engraving machine that I'm using to cut the ruff hand out off which saves an immense amount of time, but once you get up close & personal under the eye glass its a whole new ball game!

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

finally had a bit of time to cut out some stainless steel. needs a lot of work thinning it down & cleaning it up, but its a start! I ordered some diamond files, degussit & some other bits & pieces now to see how patient I am!

post-138-0-99804100-1403104816_thumb.jpg

post-138-0-63639000-1403104884_thumb.jpg

 

Lets just hope I don't get a "do you know where all the knives have gone" comment at some point!

 

Lee

 

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • So I found what I believe is the setting lever screw! Am I right in thinking the screw next to the click is the correct one for the setting lever? However if it is, it doesn't fit in the hole which I believe is for it! I can get the lever to sit nicely on the stem and line up with a hole, but the screw only goes as far as the shoulder and stops. It's as though the hole is too small! The dial side has been disassembled by the way, the other wheels are in my tray
    • When faced with say a pocket watch bridge which is cracked, silver soldering to repair is often the only option (hopefully someone wasn't there before hand with soft solder). I can generally do this succesfully and tidily with a small torch and miniscule pieces of silver solder, but on parts which were mercury amalgam gilded the heat can have have a deleterious effect on the finish.   I keep wondering if there's a good way to refinish these - and despite having the needful items would rather avoid using the mercury process.   In the past for electronic work I've gold plated PCBs but this involved gold potassium cyanide solution, which also doesn't realy belong at home. I've read that there are now safer alternatives but couldn't find more detail (and importantly how similar are the results to amalgam gilding, since I wouldn't want to refinish the whole watch). Pointers would be very welcome (and yes, I know solutions containing gold won't be cheap!) Alan
    • The first one is an Unruh max stake for pushing out staffs
    • Ok so with the great answers for my previous question may I ask what these two attachments are used for. The one with the red knob is I assume used for hand setting the seconds hand? Jon      
    • According to Cousins site I need to look at document G22 as I think I need an ATGB at 304 but I cant find this size in G22 doc. The last thing I want to do is order the wrong one😳  Unless I cant see the wood for the trees 😆 I could be looking at the wrong style, I assume its classed as Round plastic Armed  https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/wide-ring-gold-atgb
×
×
  • Create New...