Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi everyone,

I got a little problem when winding the crown the rotor will spin, and it's very stiff. But when I removed the auto mechanic the crown turn smooth, might be the cilp that hold the rotor ?

Posted

Don't have the specifics on that movement in front of me, but the scenario you describe sounds like you have a problem with the reverser system. The reverser wheels do lots of spinning and if they get just a wee but dirty you can end up spinning the rotor when you wind the crown. Some calibres have a different clutch mechanism, but I would bet on the Rolex you have a reverser wheel stuck... Time to disassemble, clean and inspect the automatic work!

  • Like 1
Posted

Took a quick look at the tech specs for the 3035. It has 2 reversing wheels. If one/both are not functioning correctly then the rotor will indeed spin when you wind the crown.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I have only made screws down to M1 & 14BA & I had trouble getting the slot in the centre of the head so I made a jig to help me be more accurate when cutting the slot, here is my video.  
    • I would repeat what @nickelsilver says, and even more. I have at leas 10 old thread plates and I have never seen one that will cut like a normal die. I don't know if they are completely worn or have never been sharp enough, but I find them completely useless. And, for the new Indian ones, I have heard only bad things. For sure, if one tries to cut more thread on a winding stem, this hole of the plate is ruined. Further more, I have bad experience with all watch size thread dies that I could buy from the available machine  tool shops here. They could not cut normal thread even on brass rod. The size was significantly smaller and the pitch is like it should be for the claimed size... The thread shape was bad too. I will explain how I do threads. I use lathe that can cut threads and thus I can prepare perfect taps. I use milling attachment instead cutter in the tool post and so I can cut thread even on hardened rod. But I prefer to harden the rod after thread cutting and temper it only to light color change as to have the maximum hardness. Then I make a tap out of it by grinding. I prepare my dies for screw thread cutting with the taps I have prepared as described. In watchmaking, dies exist and are often used that are not cutting, but rather forming the thread. They are like nuts and don't have cutting holes and edges. This kind of dies I prepare and use. You will need soft steel plate , drill a hole in it, then cut thread, then make chamfer on one side, repeat the thread, harden. You can temper just a little or leave untempered, depending of the steel You use. Using such die is with soft steel rod (or completely annealed). Good oil is to be generously applied. The rod has to be with smaller diam than the thread size (about 0.8 - 0.9 x ), the diam is better determined by tries. The rod elongates by the thread forming too. When I have to make screws from harder material like SS, I just cut them on the lathe. You screw needs hardening and tempering to be finished as real screw.  
    • You could make a guide/jig. Cut a slot in a piece of metal approx the same thickness as the screw head, then drill a hole (screw head diameter) in that slot.
    • Tried a SR920W and its completely dead after 3 weeks 🤷‍♂️ 
    • Thanks so much for quick replies. I got some watch repair tools ordered, and will get back with pictures once I removed the back lid and get into it 🙂
×
×
  • Create New...