Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

So I have an AS 1906 movement that keeps perfect time, if the calendar parts are not assembled, but once those are in, it looses time like it has a loose cannon pinion. I tightened the cannon pinion slightly, and there was no improvement. It's losing hours a day. Kinda baffled, to anyone with experience on this stuff, I greatly appreciate the help.

File May 14, 3 20 42 PM.jpeg

Edited by HorologicalHobby
Posted

I am guessing the sweep second continues to tick away then? How soon after you set it does it begin to show loss? There's a lot going on near the minute wheel, and it looks like the date wheel is powered there? 

JC

Posted

Yeah it ticks away, and the timeographer says it's within a few seconds a day. I'm going to check the gear that transmits power from the mainspring to the dial side, and is also coupled to the setting system, it's a bit too loose to properly transmit power, in my opinion.

 

The date wheel is powered off the hour wheel, by the way.

Posted

Does this movement also have the split cogs on the driving wheel for changing the date but also powrs the hands I had this problem on a AS1904 i had to change the cog ib the end it was just age related and wear. Is it out of a Elgin from the seventies.

Mick

Posted
8 hours ago, HorologicalHobby said:

Yeah it ticks away, and the timeographer says it's within a few seconds a day. I'm going to check the gear that transmits power from the mainspring to the dial side, and is also coupled to the setting system, it's a bit too loose to properly transmit power, in my opinion.

 

The date wheel is powered off the hour wheel, by the way.

Its probably that gear then. I've not worked on an AS 1904, but have worked onRoskopf type watches that have the main drive wheel riveted onto the mainspring barrel itself. This rivet point can sometimes become too loose to drive the hour hands, but it will tick away because of the indirect second...it will also look OK on a time grapher because there's nothing to indicate a beat error problem or amplitude. I don't know if AS 1904 is set up like a Roskopf-style movement, but I'd check that gear you mentioned. Pictures?

JC

Posted

That's exactly what happened! I cleaned the gear last night in the ultrasonic tank, then took off what was basically a canon pinion gear, tightened it over a reamer, and reattached it. Works like a charm now, and the setting system isn't super light anymore.

 

 

File May 15, 12 23 47 PM.jpeg

File May 15, 12 23 12 PM.jpeg

File May 15, 12 25 36 PM.jpeg

Posted

It's a fantastic feeling to be able to troubleshoot and then repair the issue. This is just how I really started learning about mechanical watches--figuring out stuff like this. Great job!

JC

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Hello all, just disassembling to service, but I can’t figure out the working of the calendar work…it’s not operational the jumper and spring are ok, but the operation of the driving wheel has me at a loss. I can’t see a cam to drive anything. Is something damaged or missing? Help please!
    • Believe the relume (not a fan) was done a long time after the damage. 
    • I can only think of some chemical reaction to reluming
    • I have a little milling attachment for my WW lathe, but very rarely use it and not for wheel and pinion cutting. For that I use a small Sixis 101 milling machine. I normally do direct dividing, but sometimes have to do an odd count and use the universal index which also fits on the Sixis.   Back in the day when I didn't have a mill, I would cut gearing on my Schaublin 102. It has a universal dividing attachment which fits the back of the spindle. Both it and the one for the Sixis are 60:1 ratio, and with the set of 4  index plates I can do almost any division. When I've had to do a strange high count prime number, I print a disc with the needed division and just place the plunger on the dot. Any position error is reduced by a factor of 60 so still plenty accurate.   The machines are a mess in the pics as I'm in the process of making a batch of barrels for a wristwatch 🙃.   This is the Sixis. The head can also be placed vertically, as can the dividing spindle.   Dividing plates. The smaller ones fit another dividing spindle.   Universal divider for the Sixis. I put it together with parts from an odd Sixis spindle that takes w20 collets, like the Schaublin 102, and a dividing attachment from a Schaublin mill.     The dividing attachment for the 102. The gear fits in place of the handwheel at the back of the headstock.   And the little milling attachment for the WW lathe. I just set it on the slide rest to illustrate the size, you can see from the dust on it it really doesn't get used much. I think only when I change bearing in the head, to kiss the collet head seat (grinding wheel still in the milling attachment).
    • I read a lot about the quality (or lack thereof) of Seiko's 4R, 6R, 8L  movements...or more specifically the lack of regulation from the factory. Especially when compared to similar priced manufactures using SW200's or ETA's. I thought I'd ask those more in the know, do the 4R's and 6R's deserve their bad reputation, is it fairly easy for someone with minimal skills (or better yet a trained watch mechanic) to dial in these movements to a more acceptable performance.    For background I spent more on a 1861 Speedy years ago, expecting that the advertised 0-15s/d  would probably perform more like 5-7s/d. In reality it's been closed to 2-4s/d. 
×
×
  • Create New...